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-   -   header clearance to kc4 cooler lines (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/4074296-header-clearance-to-kc4-cooler-lines.html)

ryank9398 12-03-2017 07:59 PM

header clearance to kc4 cooler lines
 
Is this enough clearance to rubber water line and oil filter? I know I have one of those woven spark plug boots in the garage somewhere I could slip over that coolant line.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5a34ad6a5b.jpg

billschroeder5842 12-03-2017 08:08 PM

You are good.

383vett 12-03-2017 08:55 PM

It does look fine. If you are concerned, that cooler line can be moved away from the header pipe can by loosening the 3/4" head bolt that holds the cooler on under the filter and rotating it. I also have mine covered with a thermal sleeve because I don't want to take the chance of it blowing when going through the lights.

Cjunkie 12-03-2017 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by 383vett (Post 1596100401)
It does look fine. If you are concerned, that cooler line can be moved away from the header pipe can by loosening the 3/4" head bolt that holds the cooler on under the filter and rotating it. I also have mine covered with a thermal sleeve because I don't want to take the chance of it blowing when going through the lights.

Thermal sleeve is a great idea.

GREGGPENN 12-04-2017 11:49 AM

I agree the cooler lines can be shifted. In this picture, the arrows represent how the lines USED to be pointing. It's been 7 yrs so I can't remember the details but I am thinking a "stop" had to be removed? And, the result required HOLDING the cooler tank in the desired position while tightening? Wish I could remember.... :ack:


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1d3dc5bf2c.jpg


I really like the idea of using a spark plug wire "sock" to insulate it from heat. I went so far as to make a shield. With alum snips, pop rivet, and a bench vise, I make this....

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...de7c8b11a8.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...47954588f1.jpg



When installed, it looks like this. I should have taken a f/r view because there IS room for air to flow (front-to-rear) THRU the box so it doesn't act like an oven (and hold hot air in). PLUS...I put heat reflective tape on the side panel nearest the header. It creates a "partition" of heat reflection between the header and oil cooler.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8af1752acb.jpg



FWIW, it looks like you have more space than I did too...so the boot/sock idea may be all that you need. Plus, rotating the "base" to redirect the hoses is free. If you can't tell (by the pic), I mounted it to the oil pan rail using two "studs".



Also...on the bottom and mounting sides of the box, I suppose I could have drilled lots of holes to make sure heat didn't "collect" inside the box. I don't race so my exhaust temps probably don't get as high. That said, it's been their for 7 years w/o a problem.

ctmccloskey 12-04-2017 03:33 PM

A simple hose sheath would probably be the easiest and cheapest solution in this case.

I use DEI Heat Sheaths on several hoses in the engine compartment of my 1968 BB Convertible. I have them on the fuel lines, heater hoses, vacuum hoses, Power steering lines and electrical wiring. I have not burned a spark plug wire or anything else since I have been using DEI products. The only down side is that the aluminum on the outside of the sheaths will fall apart after 5-10 years of usage and when it does it is "ugly".

The car has long tube headers and a very hot running engine to start with. Controlling the excess heat is extra important when your car was made without air conditioning.

Good luck at keeping those temperatures under control!

I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year!

gerardvg 12-04-2017 04:19 PM


Originally Posted by ctmccloskey (Post 1596105451)
A simple hose sheath would probably be the easiest and cheapest solution in this case.

I use DEI Heat Sheaths on several hoses in the engine compartment of my 1968 BB Convertible. I have them on the fuel lines, heater hoses, vacuum hoses, Power steering lines and electrical wiring. I have not burned a spark plug wire or anything else since I have been using DEI products. The only down side is that the aluminum on the outside of the sheaths will fall apart after 5-10 years of usage and when it does it is "ugly".

The car has long tube headers and a very hot running engine to start with. Controlling the excess heat is extra important when your car was made without air conditioning.

Good luck at keeping those temperatures under control!

I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year!

:iagree:

I used the header wrap insulation around the coolant hoses, just to be sure. That or a heat shield sheath around the hoses will do the trick.
:thumbs:


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