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Help: Steering Bushing (DRM) Questions
Cross posting here as this question got buried in the C6 General forum:
Hey everyone. So I’m trying to install the DRM aluminum steering bushing that replaces the stock rubber one on the passenger side of the rack. The car is a 2006 z06. I have a few questions before I proceed and would love some feedback from those who’ve done it/know:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...fc4c4bd6b3.jpg 1 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5795a81cea.jpg 2 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...8745391301.jpg 3 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...177ce0e8b9.jpg 4 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...ed6fa2539a.jpg 5 https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...433cd960c2.jpg 6 https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f981e72755.jpg 7 |
The pictures he provides shows the two bolts. But on yours, they’re a little more hidden and buried (behind the ps cooler on the pass side and the abs on the driver’s side. I just did mine. I wouldnt worry about putting a little loctite on - you’re not welding it together. a quick google search shows 74 lb-ft. You will likely have to clearance the hole in the rack a little. I feel like I also clearanced the bushing on the outside a little more than as it came so it could slide all the way in without fouling on the body of the rack. I also had no way to get the sleeve in to clear the tabs on the crossmember. I have no idea how they got it in in the factory but with the motor in, my sleeve was 1/8-3/16” too wide and I could not spread the tabs enough to get it back in. So so I can not recommend this, but I ground a little off of the sleeve. Overall not bad. |
Originally Posted by Jfryjfry
(Post 1597633737)
The pictures he provides shows the two bolts. But on yours, they’re a little more hidden and buried (behind the ps cooler on the pass side and the abs on the driver’s side. I just did mine. I wouldnt worry about putting a little loctite on - you’re not welding it together. a quick google search shows 74 lb-ft. You will likely have to clearance the hole in the rack a little. I feel like I also clearanced the bushing on the outside a little more than as it came so it could slide all the way in without fouling on the body of the rack. I also had no way to get the sleeve in to clear the tabs on the crossmember. I have no idea how they got it in in the factory but with the motor in, my sleeve was 1/8-3/16” too wide and I could not spread the tabs enough to get it back in. So so I can not recommend this, but I ground a little off of the sleeve. Overall not bad. |
No, not in your pics. Easiest to see from bottom when you loosen and move the abs block. And yes, bolt and nut. Iirc, I did it mostly by feel on that side. |
I just did this on C5. The DRM bushing was a VERY tight fit into the crossmember tabs. I had to hammer with wood blocks from side and top after making sure the bushing to steering rack surfaces were mating flush. I think DRM should reduce the bushing shoulder thickness by about 0.2mm from each side.
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4086dffb3.jpeg Guys, a few more questions: 1. is this the drivers side bolt circled in red? (Pic attached) 2. Is the abs system attached to those two bolts sitting vertically in line with each other (to the left of the circled bolt)? If so, are there more bolts for that bracket before I can move it? Any risk/issues from moving it over (to the lines attached to it)? Haven’t found much info/diagrams on that so I just want to be sure? Once I get this fully sorted I’ll make a proper DIY guide for it. Seems like that puts a lot of people off from making this mod. |
Yeah, that’s the nut side. Just loosen it. And yes, those two vertical bolts are the abs block mount. No worry about taking them off and just pushing it over a little. Dont force it for sure but the lines and wires can move around quite a bit. |
Odd people are having issues with this. Maybe there are discrepancies from rack to rack? I did mine during my cam swap and it slipped in with zero problems or modifications. But I have a C5. Maybe the C6 rack is just slightly different?
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Originally Posted by REVHARD
(Post 1597638451)
Odd people are having issues with this. Maybe there are discrepancies from rack to rack? I did mine during my cam swap and it slipped in with zero problems or modifications. But I have a C5. Maybe the C6 rack is just slightly different?
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Mine (01 C5Z) went in without a problem.
It maybe stating the obvious but, be very careful with the power steering cooler, it is easy earn a trip to the ER. |
Hey all,
Thanks for the feedback but I'm back with another question: Can you tell me what tools you used & what angle you used to successfully loosen the nut circled in red in the pic of the driver's side above? I loosened the PS cooler and the abs mount as shown in the pics, but I couldn't get a good angle of attack on that pesky nut, mainly because of the swaybar. - A normal box wrench gets on there (at 7 o'clock in relation to the nut) but not with enough angle to be useful before it hits the loosened abs mount arm. - A deep 18mm socket will get on there but then there isn't enough room to attach the wrench without hitting the swaybar. - I tried a u-joint extension with the deep 18 but still same issue. - A short 18mm doesn't hit the fastener as it bottoms out against the stud itself. Any other ideas? |
Originally Posted by anth115
(Post 1597677735)
Hey all,
Thanks for the feedback but I'm back with another question: Can you tell me what tools you used & what angle you used to successfully loosen the nut circled in red in the pic of the driver's side above? I loosened the PS cooler and the abs mount as shown in the pics, but I couldn't get a good angle of attack on that pesky nut, mainly because of the swaybar. - A normal box wrench gets on there (at 7 o'clock in relation to the nut) but not with enough angle to be useful before it hits the loosened abs mount arm. - A deep 18mm socket will get on there but then there isn't enough room to attach the wrench without hitting the swaybar. - I tried a u-joint extension with the deep 18 but still same issue. - A short 18mm doesn't hit the fastener as it bottoms out against the stud itself. Any other ideas? Pop the 4 bolts holding the swaybar/bushings on and swing it down. |
Originally Posted by ArtClassShank
(Post 1597678080)
Pop the 4 bolts holding the swaybar/bushings on and swing it down.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot tonight! |
Should be just fine. If there is doubt or issue, undo the endlinks, then remove the mounting bolts. Reverse the order for assembly |
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