Spark Plug Wire recommendations
 

I have a BB with AFR 265 Heads and Hooker Super Comp Side Pipe Headers, I like running the Plug Wires up from the Plugs to Dist. Cyl. 1 is crazy close, almost impossible to get the Plug Wire snapped on without bending the connector inside the boot (MSD multi angle boots) to the point of kinking the core. What kind of Boots (straight, 90, 135) are folks using when it's tight? I'm using boot release lube and I've already massaged the tube for more clearance.

This is what most racers use on their high powered ignition systems and me for the last 20 years. I have angle plugs and afr sometimes has header and spark plug boot clearance problems. I'm not sure what angle you might want

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-79602/

:iagree: But you are going to have to figure out what boot to run.......maybe buy some and try them? It seems to me the 90 degree would be best in your situation but can't tell....not there ;)

Jebby

I use Moroso 8mm universal wires with the 135 degree boots. I bought the tool to crimp the ends so I could run the wires in some orderly fashion. The #1 and #3 are a bit close the the header but do not touch and I have had no melting in 20,000 miles with both chrome and ceramic headers.Check you PM.

https://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm


Magnecor's KV85 Competition (8.5mm) and R-100 Racing (10mm) Race Cables feature Magnecor's exclusive 2.5mm high capacity Metallic Inductance EMI Suppressed conductor consisting of stainless steel wire precisely wound at 200 turns per inch over an insulated ferromagnetic core. The insulating jacket is made entirely of Magnecor's exclusive TC-1500-HS high strength aerospace grade silicone rubber, and its single layer construction will prolong the jacket's insulating ability by conducting extreme heat away from hot-spots that occur near over-the-limit heat sources. Some people have remarked that the cable jacket feels "soft," however, this is the nature of the particular silicone rubber used. It does help when these 8.5mm cables are fitted to 7mm OE cable retainer/dividers, as the cable is less likely to cause breakage.

The KV85 8.5mm jacket has a service heat resistance of 600 degrees F (320 degrees C) and up to 1,000 degrees F (540 degrees C) for short burst 3 minutes. The R-100 10mm jacket has a service heat resistance of 700 degrees F (380 degrees C) and up to 1,200 degrees F (650 degrees C) for short burst 3 minutes. Even if limits are exceeded, the silicone rubber will retain its insulating ability until wires are removed from engine.

Magnecor Race Wires are primarily designed and constructed to be used in applications where it is essential to prevent the possibility of ignition wires compromising engine performance. Modern race engines, modified street engines, overheating prone LPG conversions and stock street engines which rely on electronic devices to control the function of either or both the ignition and fuel systems are prone to interference from all other spiral conductor ignition wires sold through performance parts outlets, none of which can provide proper suppression for EMI, particularly if a high-output ignition system is used.

We always recommend use of our Race Wires for any stock or modified late model street engine that is electronically managed, however most other modified or street engines can also use our Race Wires to improve ignition performance

And the hype award goes to............

Maybe.... but I got them when I was having a lot of EMI problems in my EFI system... and with my spectrum analyzer on an antenna placed near the throttle body, I measured a significant reduction in EMI as compared to the Mallory I was running..,
so....

I use a Taylor with 135 boots, ceramic shorty headers.
#1 is tight but doesn't touch if I orient the boot correctly, if I don't it touches and I've burnt one through because of it. The Taylors have a big fat square sparkplug end on them
I've been looking at the accel ceramic boot wires not that they offer them in black https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...02ck/overview/ but not until I'm don't fussing with the ignition system and I convince myself to spend another $150 on wires....


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6b3c2e00d.jpeg


M

Thanks for the pics and input, I tried some mallory ceramics (from summit) last fall and didn't have enough tube clearance to snap onto Plug (even with my tube massage), looks like you have a little more room than me. Do the Taylors snap on positive (meaning you can easily tell it's on correctly), my MSD's moved around so much it never felt properly engaged and i did have some mis-fires.

Thanks,

The AFR's made a tight fit worse (but worth the gains over the big rect. CI heads), I have to use a piece of rubber hose to install or remove #1 and have to seat it completely before I can even fit a Plug Socket on there. When I find the magic Boot combo I'll post it.

The Taylors do have a very definite "snap" when they go on straight and then they can rotate smooth, I found (the hard way) that the #1 when I wasn't lined up proper would never "snap" but felt tight and I couldn't rotate it... that was when it was actually bound against the header and didn't seat all the way.

On the replacement wire I trimmed the side of the boot on the corner that was causing the issue and it goes on good now and I also could add a "sock" JIC

I've never used one but there are also short "header" spark-plugs that can help with the tight installs
M

Here's the boots with the big fat joint
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...99a0c26982.jpg

I think this style would be better clearance
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...78af2cff41.jpg

M

Did you buy a pre-made kit from them or terminate the Wires yourself? (if I remember correctly you have SB)

You send them the measured lengths, then they custom make them for you. So, if you can use a string of yarn and a tape measure, you'r set:-)
I have had SEVERAL mallory wires and other brands with bad crimps ether at the plug end or rotor end that were pre made. So I checked these when they arrived, ....perfect...
Yes, I run a SBC Gen1 427, 650hp Dart block, AFR 220 competition ported heads with 1 7/8" Kooks ceramic coated headers.... NEVER a single burned boot, not even a color change..And I run her HARD 4-7K RPM 30-60 minutes time, on 100* days, so it gets hot in there.. Wires and boots look like new.