Originally Posted by DAD111
(Post 1599132422)
Yea it's worth a try - You would have to dissemble some of those items anyway to pull the motor. Maybe the casting plug does not have a hole but just poped out abit.
I don't believe it's a hole, because it doesn't leak constantly or even right away on startup. It's a drip that first appears after 7-8 minutes of idle, and drips a little faster and faster within a few minutes after that. But then what do I know about it? :shrug: Some repair jobs we DON'T wanna know about. :) Steve |
I recall seeing a specialty tool years ago for removing freeze plugs easily. You would drill a small hole into the plug, coolant drained of course. Then a tool with threads on the end was inserted into the hole. It was a slide hammer. Couple wacks and out it came. Much like a dent remover for body work.
You should use great caution with this type of work. One slip of any jack and you won't ever play the piano again. I think your best bet is to put the front end up on ramps. That eliminates some of danger when you start jacking the engine. When the motor mount is removed, place some type of spacer in there just in case the jack slips. Perhaps a 4 X 4 piece of wood wedged in there. You must decide if its worth the risk to do the others on that side of the block. Myself, I would wait on the rest. I have had new ones leak because of a sealant failure. |
Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
(Post 1599134347)
I recall seeing a specialty tool years ago for removing freeze plugs easily. You would drill a small hole into the plug, coolant drained of course. Then a tool with threads on the end was inserted into the hole. It was a slide hammer. Couple wacks and out it came. Much like a dent remover for body work.
I'll look into that with an internet search. :thumbs: You should use great caution with this type of work. One slip of any jack and you won't ever play the piano again. I think your best bet is to put the front end up on ramps. That eliminates some of danger when you start jacking the engine. When the motor is removed, place some type of spacer in there just in case the jack slips. Perhaps a 4 X 4 piece of wood wedged in there. Man, I find myself doing Risk Assessment taking trips to the john anymore!:D Seriously, I'm confident it's kept me outta the hospital/morgue on many occasions. Thanks for those tips my friend. You must decide if its worth the risk to do the others on that side of the block. Myself, I would wait on the rest. I have had new ones leak because of a sealant failure. I'll definitely inspect the others while under there, and make the decision on them then. Steve |
Something to think about, If one freeze plug is leaking and you replace that one, it will not be long until another freeze plug starts to leak. If you have been planning to do any major engine mods it might be time to pull the engine and do them so you can replace all of the freeze plug with brass plugs.
|
Originally Posted by Gunfighter13
(Post 1599137708)
Something to think about, If one freeze plug is leaking and you replace that one, it will not be long until another freeze plug starts to leak. If you have been planning to do any major engine mods it might be time to pull the engine and do them so you can replace all of the freeze plug with brass plugs.
:cheers: Steve |
For better access to the Freeze Plug and not stressing the exhaust piping when jacking up the engine a bit, I'm removing the Header.
But that end Header Bolt's impossible to wrench off, due to the tall Valve Covers and the A/C Housing. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c3951c7e31.jpg I came up with this arrangement. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d1d2b5a999.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...284fc26a98.jpg My 1/4" drive ratchet was unavailable and may have worked with the right length extension. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...5adb0b63b3.jpg Slow but sure, it came out. Getting it started is gonna be fun. :( Steve |
Side note are those headers ceramic coated?
|
Originally Posted by Kacyc3
(Post 1599144711)
Side note are those headers ceramic coated?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0b7e96b880.jpg I love 'em because they run amazingly cool. And you can touch them 10 minutes after shutdown without it having to be Pt. Barrow winter weather either. Steve |
Update
Removed the engine mount this morning.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...966a1dc627.jpg Mount itself. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bc3fad7bc8.jpg Almost hate to post this! Looks like what I left on a barroom floor in Key West once. Disgusting! :ack: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...7d5cd9c07a.jpg Not much room to work with. I can make a little more room with the jacks. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0c8994e091.jpg Got one of these doo-dads, but may not need it if the plug's about to fall out anyway. :lol: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...817b21aead.jpg Updates to come. Steve |
Originally Posted by Cavu2u
(Post 1599139467)
Good advice. Hard to argue.
:cheers: Steve Good luck sir :) Jebby |
That bad boy is ugly fugly - I suspect they didn't change those out on the rebuild?
|
Originally Posted by DAD111
(Post 1599194945)
That bad boy is ugly fugly - I suspect they didn't change those out on the rebuild?
Steve |
Well that sucks- I hate it when i have to blame myself.
|
Originally Posted by DAD111
(Post 1599195549)
Well that sucks- I hate it when i have to blame myself.
Steve |
Getting the freeze plug out is no problem...just drive the end of a flat-blade screwdriver thru the plug, then leverage the screwdriver to pop it out.
Putting a plug in with that small clearance will be the more difficult task. Good luck. And nice job with the diagnosis. |
If memory serves me you can pull the other motor mount and lower the engine enough to get good access to those. Been a long time doing them with motor in the car. I always put brass plugs in any time I have an engine out of a car unless they already have brass plugs in them. Then I replace the brass ones if having work done to the block.
|
Thanks Folks.
Learned my lesson. Going with these now. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...be26d9f27c.jpg I'm actually raising the engine, or lowering the frame (however you look at it :D). I've found this point to be a safe engine support point. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e740f0316c.jpg And this is my usual Frame support point. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...32802f7105.jpg So by raising and lowering the two, I've got a little better clearance to work the freeze plug, https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f28ed28ad3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...36c1aa936d.jpg As good as it gets, at least without removing the Distributor, Fan Blade or Fan Shroud anyway. :) Steve |
You might be able to get a small headed porta power jack in there off the frame mount to press it in with a socket.
|
I've been thinking about a press also, if the weight of the engine will hold still. Or judicious use of an air impact tool on a very long extension from the bottom.
:shrug: Steve |
Well, here's a tip for ya. :lol:
I wouldn't recommend this tool for the answer to pulling freeze plugs. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4931c770ce.png Good concept, but success depends on a few variable things. Condition of the plug's metal and it's adhesion to the case are two. Cleaned off the plug ..... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...83b8e7f9d2.jpg ..... and after drilling the correct size hole, as stated in the documentation, .... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6a9503f2f3.jpg ... the hole strips it's threads, in my case anyway. Might have to enlarge the hole, but the next thing that comes to mind is to get a slide hammer on it and see what happens. BTW , all other freeze plugs look good on this, the right hand side. :shrug: Steve |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:30 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands