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-   C8 General Discussion (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c8-general-discussion-175/)
-   -   C8 Manual Frunk Release Video (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c8-general-discussion/4433090-c8-manual-frunk-release-video.html)

waynger 08-08-2020 09:37 PM

C8 Add On Manual Frunk Release
 
I personally feel it is probably human error causing the frunk openings, and an firmware update that prevents engaging drive while it is unlatched is the answer. But here is a video of a latch I made:
,
not hard to make or install, good luck!

blackmagicZ 08-08-2020 10:15 PM

Can you post some pictures of how you did that? Very ingenious.

Neverenough14 08-08-2020 10:19 PM

How do I make one of those. This is the best one so far by a mile! Hell, I will buy one if you will make another.

16falcon 08-08-2020 11:54 PM

You should patent that and sell it back to GM! That’s what GM needs to design! I guess GM has to figure out how to comply with the emergency frunk release rules though.

waynger 08-09-2020 12:23 AM

OK I added some fabrication instructions on the comments section on youtube.

FringbirdAloha 08-09-2020 02:47 AM

Great work! Thank you!

ChumpVette 08-09-2020 03:09 AM


Originally Posted by waynger (Post 1601980540)
I personally feel it is probably human error causing the frunk openings, and an firmware update that prevents engaging drive while it is unlatched is the answer.

By human error, you mean the chitty GM engineer who decided that was the correct way to do a frunk.

CZS 08-09-2020 03:19 AM

Genius! If you'd consider making a few of these, I'm definitely in for a purchase!

C8Jake 08-09-2020 05:45 AM


Originally Posted by waynger (Post 1601980540)
It's PROBABLY human error causing the FRUNK openings.
This is a add on latch I made to bolt on to the original latch to require manual release to open the frunk. It is made of 304 stainless steel and requires the drilling and tapping of 2 6-32 holes. I'm SKEPTICAL hoods are opening by themselves. To fabricate, start with a .450 x 5.75 piece of .060 sheet metal, stainless is what I used but mild steel is ok, aluminum, will probably fail. At the top end you have to drill 2 holes .375 apart using a #18 or #19 drill. You will use these 2 holes to attach the latch strip to the front side of the factory latch loop. These holes should be .040 to the right of the vertical center line of the latch strip. Drill/tap 2 x 6/32" holes in the STRIKER. Note that you will be using a tap drill here smaller than used on the latch strip. The factory loop must be tapped there is not enough room for the use of nuts. On the bottom end of the latch strip you must bend a "fish hook" looking feature. This fish hook feature will be made by putting a 135 degree bend on the bottom end of the latch strip .400 away from the bottom end of the part. It is very important that the front to back or overall thickness of this "fish hook" is no more than .300 . It is a very congested area where this latch strip will engage the vehicle front "crossmember" so alignment is critical side to side and front to back. The "crossmember that supports the body mounted factory latch is what we are adjusting the latch strip to engage. It will require you to push back the latch strip slightly when closing the frunk to make sure it is sliding between the REAR of the crossmember and the FRONT of the body mounted factory latch. EASY to make/install, good luck!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...e68b334cdc.jpg

"Tool & Die ~ C8 Mod of the Year" :lolg:

pcguy2u 08-09-2020 09:37 AM


Originally Posted by waynger (Post 1601981067)
OK I added some fabrication instructions on the comments section on youtube.
This is a add on latch I made to bolt on to the original latch to require manual release to open the frunk. It is made of 304 stainless steel and requires the drilling and tapping of 2 6-32 holes. I am skeptical that hoods are opening by themselves, but this eliminates the possibility at the expense of an additional step in opening the frunk. To fabricate, start with a .450 x 5.75 piece of .060 sheet metal, stainless is what I used but mild steel is ok, aluminum, will probably fail. At the top end you have to drill 2 holes .375 apart using a #18 or #19 drill. You will use these 2 holes to attach the latch strip to the front side of the factory latch loop. These holes should be .040 to the right of the vertical center line of the latch strip. You will have to drill and tap 2 6-32 holes in the factory loop to match the part you are making, take your time and make sure you drill thru the center of the factory loop. Note that you will be using a tap drill here smaller than used on the latch strip. The factory loop must be tapped there is not enough room for the use of nuts. On the bottom end of the latch strip you must bend a "fish hook" looking feature. This fish hook feature will be made by putting a 135 degree bend on the bottom end of the latch strip .400 away from the bottom end of the part. It is very important that the front to back or overall thickness of this "fish hook" is no more than .300 . It is a very congested area where this latch strip will engage the vehicle front "crossmember" so alignment is critical side to side and front to back. The "crossmember that supports the body mounted factory latch is what we are adjusting the latch strip to engage. It will require you to push back the latch strip slightly when closing the frunk to make sure it is sliding between the REAR of the crossmember and the FRONT of the body mounted factory latch.

Here are the notes for those who have trouble opening on YouTube. If someone else has already posted these, mea culpa...


Mr. Wonderful 08-09-2020 09:51 AM

Well done. It looks like a lot of members would buy one of these from you should you decide to produce them.
Mine probably won't be delivered until next spring, so perhaps there will be a fix by then.
Looks easy enough to make - the hardest part would be the install.

Neverenough14 08-09-2020 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by pcguy2u (Post 1601981910)
Here are the notes for those who have trouble opening on YouTube. If someone else has already posted these, mea culpa...

If anyone has the ability to make these, please let me know.

Zymurgy 08-09-2020 10:15 AM

Sorry everyone, but nobody can sell items on the forum that are not owned for their personal use unless they are a supporting vendor.

16falcon 08-09-2020 01:07 PM


Originally Posted by Zymurgy (Post 1601982080)
Sorry everyone, but nobody can sell items on the forum that are not owned for their personal use unless they are a supporting vendor.

In that case, it would be nice if one of the supporting vendors would produce a latch like this for us!

MaxV 08-09-2020 01:41 PM

By far the best solution!! Thanks for sharing! It would be awesome to buy this as kit for those of us who are not mechanically inclined to drill/tap etc. Just remove the original latch loop and install this system...

Stills from the Youtube:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f42eb25cd5.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...d682de1ba5.jpg

sblvro 08-09-2020 02:05 PM

why not use the GM parts bin and use the front latch of a regular front hood vehicle?

Foosh 08-09-2020 02:12 PM

Because there is nothing in the current GM parts bin that works on C8. It wouldn't be difficult or expensive to design one that does work based upon conventional designs, and what other manufacturers like Porsche use.

Whatever the solution is, it would have to allow the escape latch in the frunk to work, and traditional latches over the engine compartment don't have to factor that requirement in.

Livfreely 08-09-2020 02:30 PM


Originally Posted by waynger (Post 1601980540)
I personally feel it is probably human error causing the frunk openings, and an firmware update that prevents engaging drive while it is unlatched is the answer. But here is a video of a latch I made:
Frunk Latch Video,
not hard to make or install, good luck!



great job! Like others have said. Patent and sell. Seriously, now is the time for you to get in business.

Red Mist Rulz 08-09-2020 02:55 PM

Looks like the best approach so far, but I am a little bit concerned about drilling holes in the hood striker loop.

MAD Matt 08-09-2020 03:30 PM


Originally Posted by DSOMrulz (Post 1601983295)
Looks like the best approach so far, but I am a little bit concerned about drilling holes in the hood striker loop.

Drilling holes in any metal rod material significantly weakens it's strength. Drilling two holes makes it even worse. While his idea is the best one thus far, it's still not the answer.


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