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I personally feel it is probably human error causing the frunk openings, and an firmware update that prevents engaging drive while it is unlatched is the answer. But here is a video of a latch I made:
You should patent that and sell it back to GM! That’s what GM needs to design! I guess GM has to figure out how to comply with the emergency frunk release rules though.
I personally feel it is probably human error causing the frunk openings, and an firmware update that prevents engaging drive while it is unlatched is the answer.
By human error, you mean the chitty GM engineer who decided that was the correct way to do a frunk.
Last edited by ChumpVette; 08-09-2020 at 03:10 AM.
It's PROBABLY human error causing the FRUNK openings. This is a add on latch I made to bolt on to the original latch to require manual release to open the frunk. It is made of 304 stainless steel and requires the drilling and tapping of 2 6-32 holes. I'm SKEPTICAL hoods are opening by themselves. To fabricate, start with a .450 x 5.75 piece of .060 sheet metal, stainless is what I used but mild steel is ok, aluminum, will probably fail. At the top end you have to drill 2 holes .375 apart using a #18 or #19 drill. You will use these 2 holes to attach the latch strip to the front side of the factory latch loop. These holes should be .040 to the right of the vertical center line of the latch strip. Drill/tap 2 x 6/32" holes in the STRIKER. Note that you will be using a tap drill here smaller than used on the latch strip. The factory loop must be tapped there is not enough room for the use of nuts. On the bottom end of the latch strip you must bend a "fish hook" looking feature. This fish hook feature will be made by putting a 135 degree bend on the bottom end of the latch strip .400 away from the bottom end of the part. It is very important that the front to back or overall thickness of this "fish hook" is no more than .300 . It is a very congested area where this latch strip will engage the vehicle front "crossmember" so alignment is critical side to side and front to back. The "crossmember that supports the body mounted factory latch is what we are adjusting the latch strip to engage. It will require you to push back the latch strip slightly when closing the frunk to make sure it is sliding between the REAR of the crossmember and the FRONT of the body mounted factory latch. EASY to make/install, good luck!
OK I added some fabrication instructions on the comments section on youtube.
This is a add on latch I made to bolt on to the original latch to require manual release to open the frunk. It is made of 304 stainless steel and requires the drilling and tapping of 2 6-32 holes. I am skeptical that hoods are opening by themselves, but this eliminates the possibility at the expense of an additional step in opening the frunk. To fabricate, start with a .450 x 5.75 piece of .060 sheet metal, stainless is what I used but mild steel is ok, aluminum, will probably fail. At the top end you have to drill 2 holes .375 apart using a #18 or #19 drill. You will use these 2 holes to attach the latch strip to the front side of the factory latch loop. These holes should be .040 to the right of the vertical center line of the latch strip. You will have to drill and tap 2 6-32 holes in the factory loop to match the part you are making, take your time and make sure you drill thru the center of the factory loop. Note that you will be using a tap drill here smaller than used on the latch strip. The factory loop must be tapped there is not enough room for the use of nuts. On the bottom end of the latch strip you must bend a "fish hook" looking feature. This fish hook feature will be made by putting a 135 degree bend on the bottom end of the latch strip .400 away from the bottom end of the part. It is very important that the front to back or overall thickness of this "fish hook" is no more than .300 . It is a very congested area where this latch strip will engage the vehicle front "crossmember" so alignment is critical side to side and front to back. The "crossmember that supports the body mounted factory latch is what we are adjusting the latch strip to engage. It will require you to push back the latch strip slightly when closing the frunk to make sure it is sliding between the REAR of the crossmember and the FRONT of the body mounted factory latch.
Here are the notes for those who have trouble opening on YouTube. If someone else has already posted these, mea culpa...
Well done. It looks like a lot of members would buy one of these from you should you decide to produce them.
Mine probably won't be delivered until next spring, so perhaps there will be a fix by then.
Looks easy enough to make - the hardest part would be the install.
By far the best solution!! Thanks for sharing! It would be awesome to buy this as kit for those of us who are not mechanically inclined to drill/tap etc. Just remove the original latch loop and install this system...
Because there is nothing in the current GM parts bin that works on C8. It wouldn't be difficult or expensive to design one that does work based upon conventional designs, and what other manufacturers like Porsche use.
Whatever the solution is, it would have to allow the escape latch in the frunk to work, and traditional latches over the engine compartment don't have to factor that requirement in.
I personally feel it is probably human error causing the frunk openings, and an firmware update that prevents engaging drive while it is unlatched is the answer. But here is a video of a latch I made: Frunk Latch Video,
not hard to make or install, good luck!
great job! Like others have said. Patent and sell. Seriously, now is the time for you to get in business.
Looks like the best approach so far, but I am a little bit concerned about drilling holes in the hood striker loop.
Drilling holes in any metal rod material significantly weakens it's strength. Drilling two holes makes it even worse. While his idea is the best one thus far, it's still not the answer.
08-08-2020, 09:37 PM
C8 Add On Manual Frunk Release
