|
VATs Help!
As I sit here in a hot parking lot stranded again by my VATs pass key system waiting on my wife to come get me I ask myself how the heck do I disable this god forsaken system? It always seems to start eventually. Sometimes it takes hours. I am officially over it. If I can’t disable it, I am selling the car. I have read stuff online as to how to do it but wanted to get some fresh information. I did measure the resistance across the pellet and I read that if I can make a resistor that matches it, there is somewhere under the dash where it can be jumped. Funny thing is it always seems to happen when I am parked near high tension power lines.
|
Yes, it can be disabled. All that's required is a resistor of the same value as the one in the pellet in your ignition key, patched into the circuit to mimic the presence of the key.
Live well, SJW |
Have you replaced the the lock cylinder yet, the contacts inside can grow poor over the year's. It's not a bad job but it can take some time to the novist.
beside getting a bypass kit or doing the correct thing of replacement of cylinder you can buy a new cylinder plug it in and leave a key with correct chip in it and do what a friend of mine did. He cut a hole in the kick panel and mounted the extra cylinder in the hole so if he wanted to disabled the car he would pull key from kick panel |
Sorry guys a mature mistake but I was sitting in a parking lot….. again and pissed. The car is a 1995 ZR1. My wife came and picked me up and we went and had a bite to eat and she brought me back to the car and it started right up. I just want the VATs gone. It has inconvenienced me more than any criminal. What thief in his right mind would want to steal a 1995 C4? He better have a good set of tools and wife that will pick him up.
|
A '95 and an LT5 it can't be assumed to be a VATS issue. It very well could be the starter motor solenoid contacts & plunger have failed or maybe worse. Lots to check for correct diagnostics. You could maybe fabricate a jumper for the Clutch Safety Switch and if it happens again try that first. Hot Do Not Start are known issues for '90 - '92, thought to be less likely on '93 +. There's many good reads.
**Security light on steady would be first check the next time you get a 'Does Not Crank' |
The clutch safety would be easy enough to check but before I think I would prefer to try bypassing the VATS before I pull the starter. I do have a problem where I sometimes when I try and start the car, the starter makes a noise like it is engaging but stops, the car then starts when I try it again. Been doing that years. This issue with not starting seems to come and go. It won’t happen for a while then a lot. Almost always I am near high tension power lines when it happens. Very strange and very annoying.
|
Originally Posted by KJL
(Post 1603946475)
The clutch safety would be easy enough to check but before I think I would prefer to try bypassing the VATS before I pull the starter. I do have a problem where I sometimes when I try and start the car, the starter makes a noise like it is engaging but stops, the car then starts when I try it again. Been doing that years. This issue with not starting seems to come and go. It won’t happen for a while then a lot. Almost always I am near high tension power lines when it happens. Very strange and very annoying.
|
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
(Post 1603946593)
When it does it, is the SECURITY light on SOLID with the key in run?
In a 95, this is REALLY important info to know! If the SECURITY light is OFF with key in RUN, it is not VATS related. |
Originally Posted by WVZR-1
(Post 1603946520)
Check resistance value towards base of column and if it deviates from the key insert a resistor at that connection. That would theoretically bypass 'CRANK'. How many keys do you have?
|
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
(Post 1603946593)
When it does it, is the SECURITY light on SOLID with the key in run?
In a 95, this is REALLY important info to know! If the SECURITY light is OFF with key in RUN, it is not VATS related. My off the cuff thought is the solenoid on the starter is intermittent and might respond to heat. |
A read of the FSM 8D section would be quite valuable. There's much that can be done using CCM diagnostics available using DIC. There are various 'PASS Key®' DTC and polling the CCM it might be interesting to see if there's any stored History codes. For a '95 there's various jumpers of the DLC/ALDL that can be used for diagnostics. The last paragraph in the DTC 51 explanation is an 'interesting' read.
**8D is in Book 1 |
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
(Post 1603947239)
Bull. Under certain conditions, it is perfectly NORMAL for the SECURITY light to flash. Like, every time a door is open with the key in LOCK, OFF or ACCY. The SECURITY light should flash with a door open, key in OFF, Power locks have not been locked. This indicates that the Universal Theft Deterrent (the alarm) is not armed.
The VATS system uses a solid-ON light to indicate an active VATS disable. "Flashing" SECURITY has nothing to do with VATS. ```````````````````````````````````````` `````````````````````````````````````` That it happens near high tension power wires is intriguing, but I have no idea what the correlation could be. Because he indicates a different starter behavior, it is possible that this is a starter or starter-circuit problem (not generally a problem on the 93-95 LT5) and not VATS. Knowing what the SECURITY light does when it won't crank would be really l helpful to know. I think the OP is weary of his car not letting him start it. I'd suggest doing the signal generator and starter relay bypass and completely eliminate VATS as a contributing possibility. If starter problems persist, move on to the remedies for starter trouble such as the starter itself, and possibly the solenoid wiring, although once again, not a commonly reported issue on the 93-95. |
KJL - All of us know that level of frustration - some from the VATS system, some from other automotive "issues" / "misadventures"..
Step 1 - Figure out if it's a VATS issue. If it is a VATS problem - the absolute BEST way to solve the problem is to have a programmer reprogram the PCM to eliminate VATS entirely. Once done, your problem will NEVER reappear. I suspect that you don't use your car much in the Jan / Feb timeframe - so that might be a good time to do that work. In the meantime, measure the resistance of the "nub" part way down on the Ignition Key. I've attached a pic of the sesistor measurement and a pic of the table of what the resistor values should be. You can simply buy a resistor and plug it into the harness and that will hopefully eliminate the ignition key "sensor" that has been know to be rather "problematic". https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...35aa8cba6a.jpg VATS Resistor Values https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da0d45b5b0.jpg |
Originally Posted by WVZR-1
(Post 1603947456)
A read of the FSM 8D section would be quite valuable. There's much that can be done using CCM diagnostics available using DIC. There are various 'PASS Key®' DTC and polling the CCM it might be interesting to see if there's any stored History codes. For a '95 there's various jumpers of the DLC/ALDL that can be used for diagnostics. The last paragraph in the DTC 51 explanation is an 'interesting' read.
**8D is in Book 1 |
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
(Post 1603948369)
Yes.
WVZR's suggestion to use the CCM diagnostics is a good one too. I don't think turning off the battery erases H codes. If it was a VATS event there should be several H codes in the CCM Module 1 and an H46 in Module 4. The tricky part is jumpering the ALDL port in the 95. |
I check both my keys and found one key reading 3010 and the other 3005 so it would appear I have a #9.
|
In several places this thread it is mentioned to use the A/D diagnostic. I have only accessed codes through the dash using a jumper.....I have never accessed a diagnostic mode via the dash this way. My ALDL Droid tool can access real time data but i am in the process of moving and it is packed and stored at the moment.
|
Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs
(Post 1603952694)
Everything you need to know about CCM diagnostics, and how to access them is in this article.
|
So where did all of ihatebarkingdogs posts go? It appears they were all deleted.
|
I had a battery issue. Jump it and it starts. Few days after, the battery dies and it needs to be jumped. One fine day, I had the starter removed and opened up. It was full of oil and had issues. No amount of battery changes will help. If you are handy, I would suggest this before you go do something. Hook up an idiot light to the exciter wire of the starter and see what happens. Every time you crank, it should light up. When you crank and it doesn't crank, see if you are getting a light. If you are, the starter is at fault. If not, you have to go searching as to whether the VATS is at fault or the neutral safety switch or whatever.
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:09 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands