Tire Rubbing
 

Hi all, I am running P255 60 R15 tires on my 76. I just recently finished changing ball joints, bushings, shocks and tie rods in my front end. I had it aligned yesterday. Problem is that the driver side tire is now rubbing against the front fender lip when I turn the steering all the way right. The passenger side tire is not rubbing in anyway. I've attached pictures of both. The same tires have been on the car for years and there was no problem in the past. I took it back to the alignment shop and they don't have an answer. I'm attaching pictures of both. The 1st picture is the passenger side. The second is the driver side. I'm wanting to ask if there is any adjustment that I can make to fix this problem? Thanks.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...6e4d5412b.jpegAn


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...da644ccfc.jpeg

Post up your alignment specs they gave you?
pics of how it sits in wheelwell?
pics of shims in a arm?

Will do; l'll be couple of days. Thanks.

Speculating here but 255’s on the front is pretty big for a pre-‘78 Vette. (I think it was ‘78 when the factory opened up the clearances to run 255’s — someone can correct me.)
You probably got away with it before by someone dialing in more caster, which brings the tire rearward. Now that you are back to factory alignment specs, you have interference. As for why one side is worse than the other, either the car has been repaired at some point or that’s just how fit & finish was.
like I said, just speculating…

Did you change springs? Were they located to the top locator hole?
not sure if possible but a arms not backwards? More pics merrier 👍

The control arms get shims during an alignment process.
Supposedly the same number of shims are adding in the front of the arm as the back of the arm.
What would happen if all the shims were added to the rear of the arm forcing the arm forward?

Meanwhile:
For Sale or Trade:
Little used 255s / 60s.
Will trade for 235? 245?

Way too much rubber up front. A loss of air pressure will rip the fenders right off.

I used the original springs. Yes, I went through the whole "top locator hole" process here on the forum. I'm good there. I'll get over to get pictures of everything. Thanks.

78 and later, the factory trimmed the car to make the 255/60R15 tires fit. They did not trim where the interference occurs in the OP's picture.

As stated, please post the alignment specs. In general, you want as much caster as possible, and getting that can be a big deal in these cars. But moving the upper ball joint aft (adding caster) will move the wheel back and give you the clearance you need.

I've run 255's on the front of my 77 for over 30 years and it had them on it when I bought it!
They did a lousy job on your alignment. You want as much caster as you can get! Period. Factory settings be damned.
I run offset and slotted upper A arm shafts just to get way more than stock.
what did these guys use for alignment specs?

Hi guys, I am just getting back to trying to deal with the rubbing on the driver side of my car after an alignments. To recap, I am running P255 60 R15 tires on my 76 in the front and back. I been running this size for quite a while. I changed ball joints, bushings, shocks and tie rods in my front end.

Problem is that the driver side tire is now rubbing against the front fender lip when I turn the steering all the way right after alignments. It did not rub before. The passenger side tire is not rubbing in anyway. I understand from the forum that I need to add caster to fix this problem. I am attaching a copy of the latest alignment report. Can anyone let me know how much caster, which spacers and how I need to fix the rubbing problem? I'm not an alignment "guy" at all but I really do not want to waste time bringing it to another alignment shop if I can make the adjustment(s) myself. Thanks.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...1e492449ad.jpg

I've replaced all these parts more than once. I also run 255/60-15's, and have for over 35 years.
What I can tell you from that alignment sheet posted above. Your before measurements look way better than the after measurements!
and you paid for that???
Without looking at the shims in your upper A arms it's a bit hard to tell you what to change.
And I don't know how you got 5 degrees of castor with your stock A arms. (Before reading).
Some pics of your upper A arms are necessary here.

Can we get some more pictures? Maybe with a wheel off, and also of the upper control arm shims?

If the lowered your caster (and moved the upper ball joint forward, slightly), your rub should be even worse. As @4-vettes said, you had a surprising amount of caster before, which is good, if true. Your wheel should be centered, or even aft in the wheel well.

Was your car ever in an accident?

Ok, I hear you; Like I said I am not an alignment guy, at all and it seems impossible to find anyone around here that knows what they are doing with these cars. Thank goodness we have this forum. I will take pics of the upper A arms and post by Friday. Thanks for the feedback.

Hi Bikespace, it has not been in an accident since I've had it since 2010. Not sure about before then. The wheel did not rub even when I finished changing the ball joints, bushings, shocks and tie rods in 2022. It started rubbing after I took it for that 1st crap alignment in 2022.

You may want to call Chapman's in Texas City if you don't get it right yourself. I've have had a few lowered antique cars done by them, did a great job, but it's been several years. I'm not sure if the current techs know how to do older/modified cars.

P.S. I have 255s on my 74, no rubbing before or after the car was lowered.

If you have a bit of time I would find a few places and then casually "interview" the Alignment techs and learn their schedule. I found a Alignment Tech at a local NTB /NBW who really likes the C3 Corvette. He pulled all the shims out and as he did the alignment he used the new SS shims I brought and when done the car drove better than I have ever felt. Back then NTB had a 4 wheel alignment for $99 so I ended up getting more than four hours of his undivided attention. He was loving all the Van Steel parts on the suspension which make their jobs so much easier. After a healthy tip I returned a few days later with our C4 which he did like the C3 and again he got a healthy tip (A Benjamin). Unfortunately around here the techs never stay very long and he has since disappeared.

Always buy the stainless shims as they don't turn into a chunk of rusty metal.

Can you take a picture of your front wheels sitting straight in your wheel well? My 1975 had 255/60-15's and I never had them come even close to contacting like that. I have no idea what my alignment specs are. I want to say the control arms were switcherood in the bushing/ ball joint replacement but I won't jump to conclusions.

That was my thought, too, but that would require the alignment shop to use the wrong convention for caster, twice.

Plus, with shopping cart wheels, the OP would notice the handling change.

I'll wait for pictures. Lots, in close, and far away.

:lurk:

Why do you have less caster than before? You want as much caster as you can get, I'm willing to bet that is the issue, but there may be more. GL and take it back. :thumbs:.

Perhaps they took some out to adjust the camber?

We need pics. OP might need some SPC adjustable upper A-Arms.

The caster both before and after is red because it's too much caster not too little.
Did they have a problem trying to set caster to + 2.75 which is the maximum number.
Do you have bent control arms?