Cooling options
 

I've got a 13 grandsport manual. I've got an ECS kit and a tsp stage 2 cam going in. I live in FL and it's hot as balls. It's looking like at the minimum a new fan may be necessary if not a new radiator also. I'm seeing that prospeed is the main choice in fans followed by GSspeed. Then dewitt and mishomoto radiators. It has been recommended to me to upgrade the fan first then the radiator if necessary
but i just wanted to see if there was a proven combo I should be looking at. I've also seen where getting an 05 fan for it's more enclosed shroud will make a huge difference too. What says the masses.

have you had cooling issues before? I live in SC, so we know about the heat and humidity. I have been running stock fan and radiator with my ECS with no issues for probably 10 years. It does run about 10-15 degrees cooler when I am running e85 though. Some of our cars have cooling issues and some dont. I have always thought maybe the tune may have something to do with it.
Unless you are chomping at the bit to go ahead and do some upgrades while its apart, it may be worth the wait and see if your cooling system will keep up. Not hard at all to replace afterwards. May want to go ahead and replace the fan connector while the fan is out regardless, since that is a known issue.

I am running an E-force on my 2011 Grand Sport. I am running a DeWitts radiator with the stock fans. Never had any issues with cooling even in the hottest 95+, high humidity.

A DeWitts radiator with the EoC (engine oil cooler) in the drivers end-tank plus OEM GM lines to connect it to the ports above oil filter would be a nice setup. It will help to get the oil up to temp quicker and help to keep the oil at a more stable temp. I would have gone that route buy my E-force kit came with a plate and frame oil cooler and does the same thing.

And another option would be just to have the cam and A&A in stalled and just see if you have any cooling issues on the stock radiator and fan. Some people never have any problems.

No cooling issues yet. I get stuck on i4 from time to time and it gets into the 220s until we get moving again but that's normal for a stock system. I just didn't want to learn the hard way I should be been better prepared

I'm from South Texas normal temps around 105 and 50 to 60% humidity. I had an ECS supercharger setup with larger race intercooler temps would stay around 210-213 even on standing still traffic. I have an 05 fan setup, DeWitt radiator and hood vents to help dissipate the heat.

I'm here in Texas where its Hot and Humid. My 08 C6 M6 has an A&A kit with a Treadstone TRST9 intercooler, a Dewitt short rad and a stock fan. I made my own plate that goes over the top of the intercooler and radiator due to the shorter rad being slow low. I didn't want air getting over the top of the radiator. I run a 160 t-stat, 1 gallon of dexcool,2 bottles of water wetter and fill the rest of the system with distilled water. So far all the driving and idling with this setup the temps are staying between 180-190 degrees. The temps have been 95-106 degrees with humidity being 80% here. Its something that was recommended to me back when I had my TURBO LS FOX and was fighting coolant temps.

This is a really interesting setup. I'm assuming with the shorter Dewitt radiator, you didn't have to lower your radiator support at all? And even though you use a larger intercooler and smaller radiator, your temps are fine? Most of what I have read about the shorter Dewitts is that it doesn't have enough volume to keep things cool. What kind of oil temps are you seeing?

I am using the shorter Dewitt radiator. My Rad support is lowered from the bushing that come with the A&A kit and I had the lower mounting tabs lowered on the support. None of which does anything for cooling. That gave me more room up top in front of the blower to run a different filter setup. What I did that seems to be working is I made a new plate that sitting over top of the intercooler and radiator. It does not allow much air to get past the top of the radiator. I also shrouded the top of the stock fan blade alittle. I have a separate oil cooler thats behind the fog light opening on the driverside. Oil temps are usually 210-230

So with the external oil cooler and shorter Dewitt radiator, you're still running the OEM fan/shroud configuration and don't have cooling issues? Neat-O. Ideally I'd like to use the shorter radiator to keep my radiator support bracket at the same height. I've heard it lowers down a noticeable amount with the spacers from the major supercharger makers for our cars.

I do not have any issues with cooling. Most of the pictures I have seen when people go to the short radiator is they either remove the plate cover that comes with the kit which pretty much lets the air go where it wants OR they put the plate back on but there is a 3" or more gap between the plate and the top of radiator. So all the air coming in isn't forced into the radiator. I gives it a path at the top of the radiator to escape. By blocking off the top of the radiator it forces more air through the radiator but it allows the fan to pull air much easier through the radiator. At least that's how it all works in my head. If you look at some race cars they will create a V with the IC and the Radiator which forces air to go through both.

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This helps get everything cooler

Room for a larger IC for sure!!! Where did you mount the impact sensors?

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Super clean!!!

That crash bar is magic.
imo from my last ecs car experience. I’d suggest a full size Dewitt’s and stock fan set up then that magic of water, Dexcool, water wetter cocktail above. Start there and yes, you want all of the air to go through radiator. A&A flows into the radiator a bit more controlled than ecs kit from my personal comparisons but man I love the ecs kit. Maybe just build shrouds as needed for ecs kit and side/bottom shroud FMIC like A&A does.

The dewitts rad isn't taht much shorter to cause that much of a issue...

Seems like the consensus from everyone that has ran a short rad is that they have cooling issues. So they go fans and with a better alternator.

The fluid difference is like less that half a gal. I don't see it. I have a short rad an stock fans and after doing pulls mine gets to 230 and than cools back down. Now my ac on the other hand after beating on it and stopping psh gone.

It always seems like a combo of things at the same time that would cause those issues.. Bigger IC aka thicker to control IATS and run more boost while restricting some air flow to the Radiator. Then going to a short radiator to get more clearance in front of the blower. There was about a 3" gap between my A&A plate and the top of the Radiator. Alot of air passing through the top not forced through the radiator. And running 100% dexcool.

The car I cut the crash bar out of and made a
new one ran around with the ac on at like 220-230+. We did a new radiator (didn’t look any differently than a Dewitt’s that I’ve used on other cars) with the old a&a shrouds still and new condenser,160* thermostat,water wetter, manual fan switch just incase, and the crash bar stuff and the car doesn’t get above 180 now even with the ac on.

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