C3 Power Brake Booster Removal
 

I'm in the process of detailing my engine compartment on my 73 L82 convertible. I'm trying to replace the power brake booster - and I'm having a tough time accessing the top left nut under the dashboard. Is there a trick here ? do I need to remove the instrument cluster ? Thanks

Yes, unless you are a maschocist, (sp?), or you need 'special tool' number J1005.534,

seriously it's a lot easier to just remove the speedo tach....

now on my car, after dropping the steering column down, and getting that panel out, I decided to rewire the panel completely with a molex plug on the back for all the lights,/electricals, put in an electronic tach from a 75-7 vette, and with that rewiring made the whole thing simple to work with....


GENE

Just took mine out last weekend so this nightmare is fresh in my mind!
I found that lowering the steering column and pulling the drivers dash pad out a few inches helped tremendously. That, a universal, a swivel head socket wrench and a deep well socket where what I used.
Eddie

A wobble socket extension is handy too.

I took mine off without removing the dash. It took quite a toll on my knuckles. Ironically the dash is now out.

I have a question. There is an access panel in the wiper conpartment right above the booster. If I remember correctly it looked like 4 bolts and 2 rivets holding it on. Does this panel give you access to the upper booster bolts. If I were at home I would just go out and look (something I've been meaning to do) but I'm not at home now.

1/4 inch drive air ratchet plus extensions and universal joint does the trick . Wrap the u joint with a couple of turns of tape , this allows for better aiming so to speak !


gman

I just used a 1/4" socket set and a universal. I do not remember which nut it was but I was only able to get one click of the rachet at a time. That was a real pain as it very unconfortable down there. Even before turning the first nut I knew the seat had to be removed.
Wouldn't it be nice if we could get Lance Burton or some other magician to throw a towel over the old one, say a couple of words, and remove the towel and the new one was there!

:nono:
It LOOKS like an access panel but it really is a backing plate to help support the pedal assembly. I removed it thinking I would get to that top left bolt. :willy:

It does show it in the AIM but not sure what page. The rivets hold the plate to the fibreglass and the bolts undo the top of the pedal assembly.

Cheers,
:cheers:
Pete

The only trick is small hands, small sockets and patience. Use a
1/4 inch drive socket with lots of extensions and universals. Remove seat and wheel to give you room to move. Do this one FIRST as the others are easy.

Cheers,

Pete

I used a 1/4" socket with universals. I had a harder time putting the clip back on the pin that attachs the rod from the brake booster to the brake pedal.

I have to agree with you on the clip for the brake pedal. It was dark by the time I finally got to the clip. The batteries in my flash light were going dead and I needed the car for the next day. It must have taken a dozens tries. About 45 minutes later I got thing on. I wonder if there is some sort of special tool to install it. I would like to know what a garage would charge in labor for this job or would they say from previuos experience that they do not due that type of work.

I just did this on my 73 a week ago and I honestly don't understand what all the fuss is about.
I had heard all the horror stories about the infamous "top left nut" so I put off doing this part of my project for as long as possible.
When I finally got up the nerve to crawl under the dash I decided to get that top left nut off first to get the hardest one out of the way.
I lef the driver's side dash and the steering collum in place, but I removed the steering wheel for better access.
I had two long 3/8" drive extensions, a 3/8" swivel and a 9/16" deep socket and had that nut off in just a few minutes.
All in all it took about 1 1/2 - 2 hours to change my booster, and a good majority of that time was spent trying to get that damm clip back on. :willy:

:iagree: with Kevin73. I just took the seat out so it was more comfortable if you can call it that. But I had no problems and did not have to lower this and remove that. In fact that is my summer project. New booster, master cylinder and to relocate the p/valve & line-lock directly under the master cylinder with a bracket coming off the 2 bolts there.

Unfortunately that access panel goes nowhere .... I removed mine and found.......solid fiberglass!!! It most be supporting something under the dash

Hello Edzred72 I did the same thing by dropping the steering column and pulling the Drivers side Dashboard back a little.
I used the 14.mm or 9/16 Socket with an extension of 3.ft long which was more than enough length.

You also mention that you installed a 75 Corvette Tachometer which is Electric.
I have a question will the 75 stock Tachometer install in a 73 Corvette Tachometer location, with out modifications?
I'm doing an LS Swap and I need to do something to get the Tachometer going. The original Tachometer was driven off of t
he Distributor but the LS3 Engine that i'm installing has an electric Tachometer.
Any input will help Thanks

I did mine, 71, 5 speed ---- 2 summers ago without taking the dash out.

Pulled the seat , dropped the A/C vent and used a few extensions ( one wobble) on my 1/4 " drive Milwaukee Electric Ratchet.

It was a real PIA.

Did my 85 last summer - makes the 71 feel like a walk in the park ….