hi there jack,tequilaboy,slalo4me and pmihaltian,
thanks very much fellas for your more thoughts and help in fixing this dam problem,i really appreicate all this kind help guys.
there are no good mechanics near where i live and thats why im trying to persavere with fixing this dam problem,im just hanging out to be able to start up this new 8 t/b inake thats all.
ok i will pull the fuel pump/sender out this morning and see whats going on,might try to re install pulsator as well back again.
i will try all that you guys kindly mentioned.
cheers for that
i will keep you posted.
thanks
shae

 

ok update guys,
well it was a split hose line from the new fuel pump to the steal fuel line just like you guys mentioned.
so i went and brought some efi high preasure fuel hose and non cutting grip hose clamps, i left out the pulsator for the time being to get the car running.
when i prime the system with key on for two seconds though the fuel preasure is going up to 70 psi then backing down some to about 50 psi.
so i will adjust reg to varoius settings ,proberely around 45 psi i guess
the car did fire a little ,then stopped,so now i have to find the exhaust stroke at 5 degrees btdc to find the rite timing mark after installed the new msd distributor, then line up dist rotor with # 1 cylinder on the dist cap dont i to be able to get it to run ???
then once i have it running fit the timing light and set to 6 degrees btdc with timing connector disconnected.
so i just have to charge up battery now as i think thr battery after two years is on its way out,these bloody ac/ delco side mount post battery s dont seem to last long do they ,lol
so hope fully finally guys i can start the beast up,hooray.
thanks guys
cheers
shae

 

Congratulations.

Time to start some new threads to help with the next phase(s).

My vote is that 43 psi should be your starting point for f-pressure.

Remember to disconnect the EST connector to set timing once engine
is running. Here is a link with pictures.

I found that once I started using a better quality battery charger,
my ACDelco battery life extended significantly. A Schumacher
SC1200A is what has made the difference in my case. However,
C-Tec chargers have been written up favorably, too.

.

 

well done for persisting with what you have achieved!

 

hi there prism,slalom and others for your help,advise,tips,guidance on getting me thru this problem i had.

any way yesterday after starting up the engine,gees the 8 t/b intake sounds noisy/loud rough sort of a sound compared to a smooth,tame plenum style intake sound that im used to hearing.

as you guys know, i managed to fit a csr brand elecetric wate pump to my L98 vette some time ago by modding varoius poarts.brackets e.c.t belt routing and so.

well when i was filling up the coolent yesterday,about half way thru and coolent starts spilling out from a 1/4" hole just under the left hand arm/fitting of the electric water pump.
which i must of not seen/missed when modding every thing.

so now today i will remove left arm,grind down bottom part a bit and tap the 1/4" thread into hole and plug with a brass plug bolt i guess to stop coolent coming out.

i had a look at the old water pump and noticed that this is just under bottom instal lhole on water pump and goes from the block thru to the water pump and then channels thru to stanard water pump radaitor hose oulet that goes then to the bottom radiator hose.
but i think all will be well after i fix this little miss hap,thank god.

any way i just wanted to thank all for reading,your tips,help,advise and guidance,its been great of you.
i will keep you posted soon of the out come,gees it has ben a long 5 months since i have sold the super ram,saved up for the 8 t/b and finally getting all the other bits/pieces needed and too finally be able to start up the beast and just hear her run,cool cant wait.

just one quick last question though,when you pull the dist out and trying to find correct dist timing positiont,you turn the motor over clock wise till it gets to exhaust stroke and lines up with timing pointer on " 0 " or " 5 " btdc ???
and then once you have got that then position rotor button on # 1 cylinder location on dist cap rite please ?

thanks all
cheers
shae

 

"one quick last question though,when you pull the dist out and trying to find correct dist timing positiont,you turn the motor over clock wise till it gets to exhaust stroke and lines up with timing pointer on " 0 " or " 5 " btdc ???"

You need to find TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.

Pull #1 plug , put finger over spark hole , crank engine and feel for compression.Look at timing mark and should be near or just past timing mark.
Then you line up with "0" mark.
After you have dist installed (rotor lined up with #1 lead in dist cap) you set the timing with engine running (EST disconnected ) and a timing light.
Suspect like most of us, car will idle / run better with 8-10 degrees ; not 5.

 

hi there rodj,
thanks for the confirmation r/e dist timing.
i did what you mentioned ,but i lined it all up at 5 degrees btdc though,that must be my problem!
when i rotate by hand at altrenator nut, and i am on the exhaust stroke, i can start to feel compression for a bit,but then if i keep going a couple more turns of the alternator movement bye the time i feel this compression,im know where near the " 0" degrees btdc !!!

also when i was turning over by hand,i was on the left hand side of car near alternator and i was pulling motor anti clock wise as that was the only way i could get the motor too turn over by hand as appose to crank starting it,is this a problem then ?
i noticed that the oil pump slot seems to be a bit loose/wobbly,is this normal wear and tear ?
well after pluging the hole that i mentioned earlier,i have finally started the car up.
but its run very rough,eratic idle when looking at timing marks,tried to adjust on diffrernt dist movements to get best results.
also tried to vary the fuel preasure also.

i have ford motor sport 30 lb injectors with adjustble aeromotive reg and standard size cam /heads at the moment.
the # 1 plug reading was a black dry sooty color,meaning i guess that it is very rich .
it is also popping/miss firing a bit also,water pump seems to be working ok,
im not sure why it is running rough,may be some thing to do with running the standard 730 computer as appose to runing a stand alone after market system,although i have i.a.c connected up, m.a.p system all hooked up.
any ideas what this could be or what to check next please guys ?
thanks
shae

 

can any one please help me with my rough/eratic idle problem please ???
thanks
shae

 

hi guys,
looks like know one can help me or dont want to help me now ???
i need some advise on the rich/rough running problems now please .
thanks
shae

 

As mentioned, for best results, start a new thread with a topic title that reflects the issue.

.

 

hi slalom,
how are ya!
ok mate i will do !
cheers
shae

 

im not sure why it is running rough,may be some thing to do with running the standard 730 computer

Have you got the new tune on the chip?

 

hi rod,
how are ya.
thanks for the reply back.
nah havnt got a tune/chip yet from tom wong engineering as i havent installed cam ,large heads yet !
also i noticed that my reco/cleaned 30 lb fms injectors leak down fairly quicky ,the company that done them said they are in very good working order,dam it.
i have just reset dist timing now properly like you said at tdc " 0 ",rotor @ #1 plug lead on cap plus i have backed of fuel preasure down to 30-35 psi,i will see how that goes first,fingers crossed i guess.
cheers
shae