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If you have not removed the strut rod yet, be sure to mark the camber adjustment on the camber bolt. Just use a grease pencil and draw an alignment mark from the bolt to the bracket. (Assuming your rear alignment is correct).
If you need suggestions on how to remove the strut from the rear shock bolt we have some on our web site at this link.
If you already have the strut rod out of the car, installing it is a snap. Just insert the strut rod and install the shock bolt, install the camber bolt and tighten.
If this is not what you are looking for, please post again.
Nice setup there, Noonie! I did mine last winter. Turned the nut backwards and smacked it with a 5lb bronze hammer. DON"T try this unless you are willing to get new shock mounts. I KNEW that mine were not rusted in place.
I didn't see any numbers or markings on the struts I got- I just put them in.
Wow, great idea and even better than ours. I’m going to have to have our machine shop make one like this on Monday. . . . This is a better mouse trap for sure.
Independentvette: The strut rods are symmetric! You can’t blow the install on them.
There is not a right or left on them, and you can not install them wrong. You don’t have a year on your profile, but if you have a 80-82 you can only install them one way.
If it's a 72 you can not install them wrong. Good luck and thanks for the post. Had you not posted this I would not have seen Noonie's idea for removal.
Here is what I did to sort of make it foolproof so the puller doesn't slip off.
Take a center punch and try to ***** the center of the threaded end.
Then take a 1/8" drill bit and drill that center punch mark just about a 1/16" or so deep.
Use the pointed end for the puller and it wil not slip off at all.
The puller I used is a Snapon and has the crossbar to hold the jaws tight. sometimes it's worth having the high dollar stuff (It's over 30 years old).
Anybody notice the upside down shock the previous owner had installed.
Didn't drive all that badly either.
Here is what I did to sort of make it foolproof so the puller doesn't slip off.
Take a center punch and try to ***** the center of the threaded end.
Then take a 1/8" drill bit and drill that center punch mark just about a 1/16" or so deep.
Use the pointed end for the puller and it wil not slip off at all.
The puller I used is a Snapon and has the crossbar to hold the jaws tight. sometimes it's worth having the high dollar stuff (It's over 30 years old).
Anybody notice the upside down shock the previous owner had installed.
Didn't drive all that badly either.
That is indeed a high quality puller. I have the urge to wave the Snapon truck over every time I see it go by my house. I'm not convinced it will work for all cases - sometimes the bushing sleeve is rust-welded onto the shock mount and you just have to mangle the mount to get it off, but that puller would be the way to go before getting out the BFH.
The upside-down shock should work normally but I bet there are some interesting things that have accumulated in the boot over the years.