I've tried the ranger method but i'm still having some hydraulic issues and i'd like to do a complete bleed.

Is there a link to a "how-to" of the arduous task of bleeding the clutch?

I know how to do any f-body but i can't seem to find the bleeder on the vette. Drop the exhaust?

The car only has 17K miles on it but when i got it the clutch master fluid was REALLY black and i hope the slave isn't screwed up.

Thanks!
Oh..this is a 2k C5 FRC.

 

One technique you might want to try is to use a hand type vacuum pump with a drilled rubber stopper that has a barb fitting in the drilled hole. The stopper is placed over the reservoir opening in place of the cap. You then connect the hose from the vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the reservoir and hold it for a number of minutes. Cycle the clutch peddle a number of strokes and repeat the process. This will force any air in the system to work up to the reservoir. Continue to hold a vacuum of about 15 to 20 inches until the fluid in the reservoir no longer drops in level. As long as the level is going down than keep the vacuum on the system or until you have to add more fluid.

It is not required to use the bleeder to get air out of the clutch master/slave units.

 

Thanks for the info...i guess i'll finally break down and get the vacuum pump.

Sure hope this fixes my issue....i don't feel like tearing the car apart right now.

 

While your at it, you might want to pull the DOT 3 fluid and change to DOT 4. Not a big difference but it is about the same price range for a little bit better boil point numbers. It might take a few changes to get all the dark fluid out of the clutch system. The attached photo shows my reservoir after the second fill. The DOT 4 seems to be a little higher density then DOT 3. Note the little plume in the fluid making its way up into the reservoir in the photo.


This shows the DOT 4 can. One is enough for the clutch system. For the brake system change it took about 3 and a half.

 

http://97vette.com/howto/clutchbleed/index.html

 

man im glad i bought a remote bleeder!

 

Just trying to be clear on what you mean here. Are you suggesting that one need not bleed from the slave cylinder to purge the system of air?

 

Yes, that's what I'm suggesting. The vacuum technique works very well. The guys I work with that change clutches on a regular bases never touch the bleeder other then to make sure it is closed when installing a new slave.

 

Well, I guess I'm a little slow, but curious...

If you have a closed system, that has air entrapped in a non-compressible fluid, how can applying a vacuum to the fluid extract the air? Seems like such a simple procedure, I'm surprised I have not seen it discussed more frequently. I would assume this procedure would also work for brakes as well.

 

As far as the clutch system all I can say is give it a try. You will be pleasantly surprised as to how well it works. As I mentioned the guys that do regular clutch changes in our shop never use the bleeder.

No, it won't work for the brake system from the reservoir but will if you use the hand vacuum pump at each calipers. I change out the brake fluid in my system this way, granted some remains in the ABS system, but it gets the bulk of it.

I DON'T believe for a second that you are SLOW!!

 

Thanks for the additional info...i'm going to try this tomorrow, hopefully, as long as my buddy is available to bring his vacuum unit by tomorrow.

I've seen the plume of black clutch fluid in mine b4. Nice pic!

 

lol....remove the 36 BOLTS! That's alot of bolts. I've dropped entire drivelines that don't have that many bolts! lol

If the vacuum method doesn't work back under the vette i go.

My slave definately isn't leaking....i just hope there's some air/water in there.

Well i might as well put this out there for an internet diagnosis.

The trans shifts fine and the clutch works fine under regular traffic driving. However when parking or pulling slowly out of the garage(slowly releasing clutch) the pedal will stay half way or almost fully to the floor.

What do you think?

 

No offense, but I'm not buying it. The fluid mechanics just don't add up...

 

Hey believe what you want... It works for me and the folks that change them professionally on a daily bases. Please enlighten us on the fluid dynamics that make it so this doesn't work, even though you have never tried it.

 

In short, you have to displace to replace. So whatever air you displace, has to be replaced by solid fluid. How is that possible in a closed system, and if it is, why can't you bleed the brakes the same way?

 

If this worked there would be no need for bleeders in any hydraulic system.

 

You are exactly right! There are slave units used on other GM vehicles that do not have bleeders. Part number for those in doubt, 24242161.

Trying to compare the brake hydraulic system to the clutch hydraulic system makes as much cents as comparing the windshield washer system to the fuel injector system. You can’t. Yes, they both have pumps, they both have fluid and they both spray the fluid, but the other dynamics are very different.

The brake system operates at much higher pressures and lower volume of displaced fluid compared to the clutch system.

The clutch system's larger displacement and larger diameter pressure line is very short between the master and the slave compared to a brake line that runs all the way from the front to the rear of the vehicle.

I would like to point out that those who have installed remote bleeders might find the vacuum technique will take longer to bleed the clutch system. This is due to the bleeder line can hold air making more vacuum cycles required. Then again, if you already have the remote bleeder installed, you may as well do the pedal pump and bleed process.

If you have a stock configuration then the vacuum technique keeps you from having to drop the exhaust, the tunnel plate and all the other items and will do just as good, maybe even better then the pedal pump and bleed.

To bash a system that works without any supporting information other then you have a feeling it won’t work speaks volumes of your personality type.

 

Geez, almost sorry i asked, but i did get some interesting info. I've yet to try this vacuum method but i plan on trying it b4 dropping the exhaust and all else.

Thanks for all info.

I'll post up my results when i get around to trying this.

 

I think the Pheonix Bleeder system (http://www.gwrauto.com/phoenix/phxinj.html) works like this you can pull or push fluid, I can see how the vacuum thing would work on a system that has been filled and gotten air in it, for a new system with only air in it I don't see it working.

 

Any more info on what rubber stopper / barb to use? I have a mityvac and would like to try this.