F45 / F55 Delete - 5 minutes & $25
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 23
From: Eden, UT
F45 / F55 Delete - 5 minutes & $25
Been lurking on this topic for a few months, thought I would write up a summary and share my experiences.
To delete F/45 you have 3 options: 1. spend $200+ or - on simulator plug-ins to go in the shock sensor plugs. 2. Install 10W 10 Ohm wire wound resistors (from Radioshack) into the shock sensor wire's. 3. Program it out with a Tech II and disconnect the ride control module.
To delete F/55 your only option is the Tech II delete - resistors will not work.
Using the sims or the resistors assumes that all the other components in the system (sensors, modules and wiring harness) are operating correctly and if something breaks you will have to fix it or get codes. In my case I had a very annoying intermittent code from a wheel position sensor that was due to a short in the wiring harness in an unreachable location. I elected to go the Tech II route as it was so easy, cheap and imo the most complete solution.
The hardest part is finding a Tech II - all GM dealers have them but they may hesitate at the programing or want to overcharge you ($125 at mine). Just start calling local shops and if they don't have one ask them if they know who does - it only took me 2 calls to get a referral to a shop that had one. Don't bother if they tell you they have a different scantool that will work - it won't, it must be a GM Tech II. Try a shop that specializes in Cadillac repair, that's what I used and it turns out they had been programming out selective ride from certain Caddy's for years because the replacement shocks are $1300 each (I guess the Caddy tax is higher than the Vette tax) and knew exactly what I wanted to do.
Go to this link http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html and print out steps 2-14. Those are the instructions on what to do with the Tech II.
Then copy and print these procedure sequence instructions:
1. Hook up your Tech 2 (Driver's footwell), turn the car ON, make sure the module in the left rear storage compartment (pull back the velcro lining on the front of the compartment) is plugged in. DO NOT UNPLUG THIS MODULE
2. Now use the Tech 2 to delete the F45 option ( F55 option does not appear on the Tech 2 menu screen - SO - DELETE THE F45 OPTION
(use the screen captures - steps 2-14)
3. Save the new configuration
4. DO NOT TURN THE CAR OFF DO NOT REMOVE THE TECH 2 Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the GRAY connector - IT IS THE WIDEST ONE - leave the other 1 (F/45) or 2 (F/55) plugged in.
5. Turn off the car but LEAVE THE TECH 2 PLUGGED IN
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of the car - Never plug them back in again, if you do the F/45 turns on automatically.
7. Now the moment of TRUTH - Turn the car on and verify that the dreaded - MAX SPEED 80 MPH - is gone. This message was only present if you had already disconnected the shock sensors. Some people have had to disconnect their battery to allow the computer to reset to remove this message, but I would confirm with the Tech II that the F/45 was actually deleted first and if not reconnect everything and start again with step 1.
8. Unplug the Tech 2 - Get in the car and take it for a ride. Smile as you pass the DREADED 80 MPH.
With these instructions in their hands even the most inexperienced tech can do this. It took mine 5 minutes and they charged me $25. I would have spent much more time and effort getting and installing resistors.
If you haven't already changed your shocks drive home carefully as the shocks become very soft, not dangerous but as GM advises keep it under 80MPH.
Hope this helps somebody else.
To delete F/45 you have 3 options: 1. spend $200+ or - on simulator plug-ins to go in the shock sensor plugs. 2. Install 10W 10 Ohm wire wound resistors (from Radioshack) into the shock sensor wire's. 3. Program it out with a Tech II and disconnect the ride control module.
To delete F/55 your only option is the Tech II delete - resistors will not work.
Using the sims or the resistors assumes that all the other components in the system (sensors, modules and wiring harness) are operating correctly and if something breaks you will have to fix it or get codes. In my case I had a very annoying intermittent code from a wheel position sensor that was due to a short in the wiring harness in an unreachable location. I elected to go the Tech II route as it was so easy, cheap and imo the most complete solution.
The hardest part is finding a Tech II - all GM dealers have them but they may hesitate at the programing or want to overcharge you ($125 at mine). Just start calling local shops and if they don't have one ask them if they know who does - it only took me 2 calls to get a referral to a shop that had one. Don't bother if they tell you they have a different scantool that will work - it won't, it must be a GM Tech II. Try a shop that specializes in Cadillac repair, that's what I used and it turns out they had been programming out selective ride from certain Caddy's for years because the replacement shocks are $1300 each (I guess the Caddy tax is higher than the Vette tax) and knew exactly what I wanted to do.
Go to this link http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html and print out steps 2-14. Those are the instructions on what to do with the Tech II.
Then copy and print these procedure sequence instructions:
1. Hook up your Tech 2 (Driver's footwell), turn the car ON, make sure the module in the left rear storage compartment (pull back the velcro lining on the front of the compartment) is plugged in. DO NOT UNPLUG THIS MODULE
2. Now use the Tech 2 to delete the F45 option ( F55 option does not appear on the Tech 2 menu screen - SO - DELETE THE F45 OPTION
(use the screen captures - steps 2-14)
3. Save the new configuration
4. DO NOT TURN THE CAR OFF DO NOT REMOVE THE TECH 2 Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the GRAY connector - IT IS THE WIDEST ONE - leave the other 1 (F/45) or 2 (F/55) plugged in.
5. Turn off the car but LEAVE THE TECH 2 PLUGGED IN
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of the car - Never plug them back in again, if you do the F/45 turns on automatically.
7. Now the moment of TRUTH - Turn the car on and verify that the dreaded - MAX SPEED 80 MPH - is gone. This message was only present if you had already disconnected the shock sensors. Some people have had to disconnect their battery to allow the computer to reset to remove this message, but I would confirm with the Tech II that the F/45 was actually deleted first and if not reconnect everything and start again with step 1.
8. Unplug the Tech 2 - Get in the car and take it for a ride. Smile as you pass the DREADED 80 MPH.
With these instructions in their hands even the most inexperienced tech can do this. It took mine 5 minutes and they charged me $25. I would have spent much more time and effort getting and installing resistors.
If you haven't already changed your shocks drive home carefully as the shocks become very soft, not dangerous but as GM advises keep it under 80MPH.
Hope this helps somebody else.
Last edited by Kokopelli; Feb 10, 2010 at 05:56 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 5
From: Denver, North Carolina
Most folks who do this (including me) do it to put better shocks or coilovers on the car. If there is a malfunction anywhere in the F45 system the PCM will limit the top speed of the car to 80 mph. The OEM parts for F45 are naturally very expensive so if something goes bad it can accually be less expensive to put on a good set of Bilsteins or whatever brand of shock or coilover you like and get rid of F45.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 23
From: Eden, UT
Most folks who do this (including me) do it to put better shocks or coilovers on the car. If there is a malfunction anywhere in the F45 system the PCM will limit the top speed of the car to 80 mph. The OEM parts for F45 are naturally very expensive so if something goes bad it can accually be less expensive to put on a good set of Bilsteins or whatever brand of shock or coilover you like and get rid of F45.
Its cheaper to go with coilovers
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,375
Likes: 1,593
From: Western NY
Stupid me! If I had only known this before I ordered my '01, I would have ordered the Z51 option instead!!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I also had a 98 Coupe with the F-45 option/base suspension. For me, the system NEVER had any WOW moments. Once I got a chance to drive a C5 with a Z-51 suspension option or a ZO6, the F-45 is a JOKE!Heres what you do for some real suspension improvements that will make you think you purchased a new car:
- Find a set of used C5 ZO6 sway bars and springs OR order new ZO6 stuff from Gene Culley. Call him and see what C6 ZO6 stuff he has for your C5.
- Purchase a set of four new C6 ZO6 shocks from Gene Culley www.gmpartshouse.com ($240 ish dollars new for all four) Direct Fit!!
New C6 ZO6 sway bar kits are $200 http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...rts-house.html Direct fit!!!
Once you get rid of the F-45, the smile on your face will get BIG!
Your car will handle so much better! You will wonder why you didnt make this change a LOT sooner.
BC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 23
From: Eden, UT
Nick - sorry i didn't save it, but it pretty simple once you get a Tech II lined up. Just need to go into it and reprogram the BCM - the steps once you get into that area are simple - kind of like taking a multiple choice test when 3 of 4 answers are obviously wrong - good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 788
Likes: 33
From: Cedar Rapids IA
Nick - sorry i didn't save it, but it pretty simple once you get a Tech II lined up. Just need to go into it and reprogram the BCM - the steps once you get into that area are simple - kind of like taking a multiple choice test when 3 of 4 answers are obviously wrong - good luck.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571890692-post6.html
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Frostburg Maryland
This worked for me. Thanks.. I didnt have to do it in this order. No matter what I did it would not let go of the awefull max 80. It wasn't untill I got home from the shop and hit the reset button then unhooked the battery for several hours that it went away. I think the main thing is to delete the f45 code and unhook the module. Then give the computer a chance to reset without the option. Thanks for the great advice.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 553
Likes: 2
From: Jeddah
Been lurking on this topic for a few months, thought I would write up a summary and share my experiences.
To delete F/45 you have 3 options: 1. spend $200+ or - on simulator plug-ins to go in the shock sensor plugs. 2. Install 10W 10 Ohm wire wound resistors (from Radioshack) into the shock sensor wire's. 3. Program it out with a Tech II and disconnect the ride control module.
To delete F/55 your only option is the Tech II delete - resistors will not work.
Using the sims or the resistors assumes that all the other components in the system (sensors, modules and wiring harness) are operating correctly and if something breaks you will have to fix it or get codes. In my case I had a very annoying intermittent code from a wheel position sensor that was due to a short in the wiring harness in an unreachable location. I elected to go the Tech II route as it was so easy, cheap and imo the most complete solution.
The hardest part is finding a Tech II - all GM dealers have them but they may hesitate at the programing or want to overcharge you ($125 at mine). Just start calling local shops and if they don't have one ask them if they know who does - it only took me 2 calls to get a referral to a shop that had one. Don't bother if they tell you they have a different scantool that will work - it won't, it must be a GM Tech II. Try a shop that specializes in Cadillac repair, that's what I used and it turns out they had been programming out selective ride from certain Caddy's for years because the replacement shocks are $1300 each (I guess the Caddy tax is higher than the Vette tax) and knew exactly what I wanted to do.
Go to this link http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html and print out steps 2-14. Those are the instructions on what to do with the Tech II.
Then copy and print these procedure sequence instructions:
1. Hook up your Tech 2 (Driver's footwell), turn the car ON, make sure the module in the left rear storage compartment (pull back the velcro lining on the front of the compartment) is plugged in. DO NOT UNPLUG THIS MODULE
2. Now use the Tech 2 to delete the F45 option ( F55 option does not appear on the Tech 2 menu screen - SO - DELETE THE F45 OPTION
(use the screen captures - steps 2-14)
3. Save the new configuration
4. DO NOT TURN THE CAR OFF DO NOT REMOVE THE TECH 2 Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the GRAY connector - IT IS THE WIDEST ONE - leave the other 1 (F/45) or 2 (F/55) plugged in.
5. Turn off the car but LEAVE THE TECH 2 PLUGGED IN
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of the car - Never plug them back in again, if you do the F/45 turns on automatically.
7. Now the moment of TRUTH - Turn the car on and verify that the dreaded - MAX SPEED 80 MPH - is gone. This message was only present if you had already disconnected the shock sensors. Some people have had to disconnect their battery to allow the computer to reset to remove this message, but I would confirm with the Tech II that the F/45 was actually deleted first and if not reconnect everything and start again with step 1.
8. Unplug the Tech 2 - Get in the car and take it for a ride. Smile as you pass the DREADED 80 MPH.
With these instructions in their hands even the most inexperienced tech can do this. It took mine 5 minutes and they charged me $25. I would have spent much more time and effort getting and installing resistors.
If you haven't already changed your shocks drive home carefully as the shocks become very soft, not dangerous but as GM advises keep it under 80MPH.
Hope this helps somebody else.
To delete F/45 you have 3 options: 1. spend $200+ or - on simulator plug-ins to go in the shock sensor plugs. 2. Install 10W 10 Ohm wire wound resistors (from Radioshack) into the shock sensor wire's. 3. Program it out with a Tech II and disconnect the ride control module.
To delete F/55 your only option is the Tech II delete - resistors will not work.
Using the sims or the resistors assumes that all the other components in the system (sensors, modules and wiring harness) are operating correctly and if something breaks you will have to fix it or get codes. In my case I had a very annoying intermittent code from a wheel position sensor that was due to a short in the wiring harness in an unreachable location. I elected to go the Tech II route as it was so easy, cheap and imo the most complete solution.
The hardest part is finding a Tech II - all GM dealers have them but they may hesitate at the programing or want to overcharge you ($125 at mine). Just start calling local shops and if they don't have one ask them if they know who does - it only took me 2 calls to get a referral to a shop that had one. Don't bother if they tell you they have a different scantool that will work - it won't, it must be a GM Tech II. Try a shop that specializes in Cadillac repair, that's what I used and it turns out they had been programming out selective ride from certain Caddy's for years because the replacement shocks are $1300 each (I guess the Caddy tax is higher than the Vette tax) and knew exactly what I wanted to do.
Go to this link http://www.stopforce.com/RPO.html and print out steps 2-14. Those are the instructions on what to do with the Tech II.
Then copy and print these procedure sequence instructions:
1. Hook up your Tech 2 (Driver's footwell), turn the car ON, make sure the module in the left rear storage compartment (pull back the velcro lining on the front of the compartment) is plugged in. DO NOT UNPLUG THIS MODULE
2. Now use the Tech 2 to delete the F45 option ( F55 option does not appear on the Tech 2 menu screen - SO - DELETE THE F45 OPTION
(use the screen captures - steps 2-14)
3. Save the new configuration
4. DO NOT TURN THE CAR OFF DO NOT REMOVE THE TECH 2 Go to the module in the rear of the car, unplug the GRAY connector - IT IS THE WIDEST ONE - leave the other 1 (F/45) or 2 (F/55) plugged in.
5. Turn off the car but LEAVE THE TECH 2 PLUGGED IN
6. Remove remaining plugs from module in the rear of the car - Never plug them back in again, if you do the F/45 turns on automatically.
7. Now the moment of TRUTH - Turn the car on and verify that the dreaded - MAX SPEED 80 MPH - is gone. This message was only present if you had already disconnected the shock sensors. Some people have had to disconnect their battery to allow the computer to reset to remove this message, but I would confirm with the Tech II that the F/45 was actually deleted first and if not reconnect everything and start again with step 1.
8. Unplug the Tech 2 - Get in the car and take it for a ride. Smile as you pass the DREADED 80 MPH.
With these instructions in their hands even the most inexperienced tech can do this. It took mine 5 minutes and they charged me $25. I would have spent much more time and effort getting and installing resistors.
If you haven't already changed your shocks drive home carefully as the shocks become very soft, not dangerous but as GM advises keep it under 80MPH.
Hope this helps somebody else.
i am currently having the same code C1780 for the steering position sensor,, any other way to solve it?
KJ
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 16,376
Likes: 404
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
....been through the whole scenario when my f45 shocks went haywire...that 80 mph limit is a huge safety risk if you are trying to pass on a freeway...gm didn't do us any favors there, and the gub'ment should have stepped in and banned such a stupid move by the OEM....I guess there haven't been enough accidents or complaints.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,479
Likes: 92
From: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
I did mine by just removing the plunger from the shock and leaving it attached to the harness. I tied the harness out of the way and haven't got any code and been over 80 routinely.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
You must still have the F-45 real time dampening shocks in place. If you don't, it will set a DTC and limit your top speed. Those shocks are most of the issue. They SUCK and suck even worse when there worn out.
Removing the arm for the suspension position sensor does NOT disable the system.
It just makes the RTD module think your suspension isn't moving. Do your self a big favor and properly get rid of the F-45 garbage and replace the base suspension components with real performance suspension components (OEM or aftermarket ) Your choice. What ever it is it will be a VAST improvement. TRUST ME.
BC
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,479
Likes: 92
From: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
I don't Bill. I replaced them with C6Z06 shock a few months ago. When I bought the car I noticed the front shocks had been change but the back were still F45. That when I noticed that what had been done was that the complete plunger was removed from the shock,so the computer does not know if there is a shock there or not. When I change my shocks to Z06 I disconnected the harness at the frame.
I got codes and the 80 mph warning. So I duplicated what they did in the front and code/warning gone. I posted it back in sept.
I got codes and the 80 mph warning. So I duplicated what they did in the front and code/warning gone. I posted it back in sept.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,479
Likes: 92
From: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
That doesn't make any sense at all.
You must still have the F-45 real time dampening shocks in place. If you don't, it will set a DTC and limit your top speed. Those shocks are most of the issue. They SUCK and suck even worse when there worn out.
Removing the arm for the suspension position sensor does NOT disable the system. It just makes the RTD module think your suspension isn't moving.
Do your self a big favor and properly get rid of the F-45 garbage and replace the base suspension components with real performance suspension components (OEM or aftermarket ) Your choice. What ever it is it will be a VAST improvement. TRUST ME.
BC
You must still have the F-45 real time dampening shocks in place. If you don't, it will set a DTC and limit your top speed. Those shocks are most of the issue. They SUCK and suck even worse when there worn out.
Removing the arm for the suspension position sensor does NOT disable the system.
It just makes the RTD module think your suspension isn't moving. Do your self a big favor and properly get rid of the F-45 garbage and replace the base suspension components with real performance suspension components (OEM or aftermarket ) Your choice. What ever it is it will be a VAST improvement. TRUST ME.
BC
You seen it before Bill. here was your respond then. You just forgot.
Looks like some one removed the control valves from the F-45 shock and retained the coil assy so that the system is happy and doesn't throw DTCs. SO,, you have regular shocks and still retain the old control coil to make the RTD computer happy. Not a bad Idea.
If I were you, I would have the RTD system de-programmed out and get rid of all that crap. Your rear shocks are most likely SHOT!
BC