Here is my time calculation:
4 hours to remove engine
8 hours all engine work including boring cylinders
4 hours to install engine
This is time for experienced mechanic/machinist.
Part order waiting time is not included.
Am I wrong? Let me know.

 

Quite wrong.

 

Looking good Pete, Im glad you showed how to use plastigauge, I have heard about it but never really seen how it worked. What is considered the proper clearance range for the crank bearings? Im looking forward to seeing more photos as you progress. Its great actually seeing my motor go together, something most people never see...WW

 

Lookin good Pete! Where can one get a cam bearing install tool? How much are they?

 

Happy to do it Wayne. Build is much further along than I currently have documented, I just finally sat down and loaded pics.


When assembling an engine, you must do everything possible to be spotlessly clean.
Do Not trust any new part. Always quality check every piece to the best of your ability, and look for dirt and grime.
With the exception of the lifters, gaskets, rings and bearings each and ever piece is given a solvent bath, soap and water, and sometimes a shot of brakeclean before blowing dry with air.
Avoid paper towels, and rags as they leave lint.
If you must use a paper towel, Bounty seems to be the best.

 

They vary in price from $75 to about $300

I use a $75 small block chevy only tool that I picked up from Speedway Motors.
The more expensive tools contain multiple arbors for installing in any possible engine.

Machinist typically charges about $25 or so to install the cam bearings. The tool pays for itself in 3 builds, but that is not the real benefit.
Dirt hides in the cam bearing bores quite well.
By installing the bearings yourself, if gives you a chance to spitshine the area in the cam tunnel beforehand.
Engine builders work a production line and will never clean it as good as you would.

 

...

Pete,the build is looking good

 

Thanks Mick

Once the crank is installed, bolts are lubed caps are set into place (except #5) and torqued to spec.

After confirming it spins nice and smooth, the rear cap is set in place, and finger tightened.
The pic below shows a screwdriver being gently inserted between a counterweight and a main bearing cap. The idea is to gently pry the crank forward and hold it there while the rear main cap is torqued. This causes the thrust flange on the crank to align the bearing halves as close to perfect as possible. The clutch or torque converter always tries to shove the crank out the front of the block, and the thrust bearing and flange are there to resist this.



Now it is time to check the thrust measurement.
Crank is gently pried to the rear, and the gauge is zero'd out.
Then the crank it pried forward and measurement recorded.



Although the flash caused the gauge to be unreadable, it shows a thrust of approx .005.
Perfect.

 

never saw someone doing so many measurements to an engine but I'm sure this engine is gonna run smoothly wish I had the money for such an engine build

 

When a professional engine builder does the assembly (assuming he did the machine work), checking becomes much less, as he knows what all the critical measurements are. A few quick quality checks are needed, and it usually goes together easily.

The main purpose of this photo document is to explain that no one, or no parts manufacturer should be trusted to produce a part or labor that is perfect.

Assembler always has the final opportunity to find any flaws, so they may be fixed before the motor is installed.

 

Pete, does this block take the little metal cap/plug that goes under the rear main cap or is that just for the older blocks?..WW

 

Hey Pete, this magnetic gauge holder looks familiar

But I'm a few steps ahead, I have rotating assembly allready in.
Great work!

 

with Pete..
you forgot the Murphy Time which in my book would add up to another 20-40 hours maybe more if you see the time thats being put into this
I see an easy 16 on RR motor

 

wow best thread ever IMO
wish there was this good of a machines near me

 

I do as well Bruno. I just have not been prompt with my posting pics

 

It does:

 

The reason I bring this up is years ago when a friend and I built our first motor, not putting this plug in was the only thing we did wrong, We had to disassemble the engine to put it in because the oil pressure was only 25 psi without it.. For someone who builds motors as often as you its probably second nature to drop this in, but for someone not use to building motors it can be overlooked very easily, especally if your starting with a bare block..I just thought I would bring this up and maybe save someone any future problems. But now I see that you have a picture of it, so you were probably going to mention it anyway...Oh well.......WW

 

I am always afraid I might forget it too, so it is always the first one I install. I do the one on the deck surface second.

I am glad you brought it up, as I wanted to explain what could happen if forgotten. Truth is, I forgot to post the pic.

 

It's time to file fit the rings.
Ring end gap is critical (especially the top ring). Too loose, and you will have excessive leakdown. To tight, and heat will cause them to grow, and butt. Butt=Bang.
Butt no good.

Ring manufacturers will typically recommend approx .004 for each or bore diameter (top ring) and .0035 for the second ring. This is rule of thumb, and builder/ring manyfacturer shall be consulted.

If you are adding boost, nitrous or sustained high rpm, tweaking the ring end gaps is nescessary. This is a very subjective process, and you may get alot of different opinions, from alot of different people.

For example, some like to make the 2nd ring end gap larger than the top end gap to prevent ring flutter caused by the pressure build up of the gasses that escape past the top ring.
*All rings have blowby, to some extent.

On Waynes motor, I have determined that the top ring gap shall be
.018 to .019
Second ring gap shall be .016-.017

Most believe that the top ring's job is to seal the compression. That is true.
Most thing that the second rings job it to catch the blowby that escapes past the top ring. This is partially true. However, the main purpose of the second ring is to help the botton ring (oil control ring).
Pics below show the ring gap process.

Ring carefully installed into the cylinder it will call home.

Squaring tool used to press the ring down about an inch, and square it in the bore.

Measurement being taken with a typical feeler guage.

Ring being filed to fit.
*Best to take small bites, and sneak up on the finished size.

Ring being deburred with a small file.
NOTE: Do not chamfer the edges. This will cause a venturi effect and contribute to blowby.


Repeat for all rings, in all cylinders. Be sure to label them so they are installed back into the same cylinders they were fitted to.
In a perfect world, they would all be the same, but there is a good reason that this is not the case.

 

After finishing the rings, marking them, and putting them safely aside, it is time to marry the pistons and connecting rods.
This build uses floating pins, so all that is needed is needlenose pliers, and a steady hand.


Pic below shows the second ring (cast iron) and the top moly coated cast iron ring.

Rings are installed on the piston, starting with the bottom (3 piece) oil ring. 2nd ring is installed, followed by the top moly ring.
Follow ring manufactures instructions. Most rings have a top side, and it is usually marked with a dot, or a dash.


Repeat for all 8 pistons, and set them aside.