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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:10 AM
  #41  
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Wow...

This don't sound to good!!!

Originally Posted by tjwong
This guy had an issue with LME to, his pistons looks striking similar to yours, using oil at a rate of 2+ quarts every 1k miles

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...l-engines.html



No I don't beleive the build up on his pistons is due to the pistons compression ratio, in the link above that persons pistons were 11.3:1 in a LS7 build. That engine issue was long resolved if you read the complete thread.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by TurboLX
Another possible area of concern might be if the methanol injection is bore-washing the cylinder, removing the oil which then leads to the scoring you're seeing. Reason #27 why I'm not a fan of meth injection...

As a fan of meth injection, being that it is the key to high HP and pump gas, (and not wanting a flat low end and poor fuel economy from ridiculously low compression) I can assure you from years of using it, when tuned correctly, that you are incorrect Greg.

The rate of airflow at which the meth is sprayed, let alone the ratio of how much is used, there is no way that Sam's engine bores are being washed down from it.

We have many of the fastest Vettes on these boards running meth injection, and doing so for many years of both street and track use. The results/longevity of the builds/and satisfaction of our customers speak for themselves.

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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs

I won't blame LME: their stance is nothing is wrong. Each one of you can make your own decision regarding that; assigning blame is not going to fix anything.
if you wont then i will, companies like that who put out products that do not meet expectations should be burnt to the ground, its one thing to mess up - that acceptable because everyone makes mistakes, what is apauling is that they wont stand behind their product and are trying to tell you this is normal, Sam your a smart guy and you know theyre just b.s.ing you. I could have probably put together a motor that make you more power, gets better mileage and looks cleaner after 10X the miles you put on and my only experience with engine building was assembling a lawn mower motor back in h.s...

congrats LME you just earned a spot on my **** list, dont expect to see many customers out of the chicagoland area, ill see to that
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:56 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
As a fan of meth injection, being that it is the key to high HP and pump gas, (and not wanting a flat low end and poor fuel economy from ridiculously low compression) I can assure you from years of using it, when tuned correctly, that you are incorrect Greg.

The rate of airflow at which the meth is sprayed, let alone the ratio of how much is used, there is no way that Sam's engine bores are being washed down from it.

We have many of the fastest Vettes on these boards running meth injection, and doing so for many years of both street and track use. The results/longevity of the builds/and satisfaction of our customers speak for themselves.

Exactly. How are you going to wash out the bores if all the fuel is being burnt off. If some idiot is running 11:1 AFR and adds a bunch of meth on top of that w/o tuning he will wash it out.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by user_name
Exactly. How are you going to wash out the bores if all the fuel is being burnt off. If some idiot is running 11:1 AFR and adds a bunch of meth on top of that w/o tuning he will wash it out.
Even at that it would take great effort if it was only rich in boosted conditions. Cylinders wash out much faster from a rich idle, then a rich WOT on a street car, since it simply cant be left at WOT long enough. At least from what I have seen in my experience.


Sam, being that the compression is 9.8, I would consider taken the short block apart. That is not low enough to cause the issue's your having. Especially the oil build up, somethings not right there.

Best of luck with it, we'll be here if you have any questions.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #46  
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Doug, as usual, has beat me to it. I can add absolutely nothing beyond what he's said - and he's absolutely right.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #47  
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Contact Erik Koenig at HKE in Houston. He will diagnose the problem and help you make recommendations to fix the problem. Erik may be backloged, but the results are worth the wait and he is very reasonably priced.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by aTX427
Contact Erik Koenig at HKE in Houston. He will diagnose the problem and help you make recommendations to fix the problem. Erik may be backloged, but the results are worth the wait and he is very reasonably priced.
I spoke to Erik about having him build the engine originally. In retrospect I wish I had gone that route. In the end I didn't use him for the exact same reason you pointed out: he is always backlogged and I couldn't afford the wait.

I have zero interest in taking the engine apart, and even less interest in paying a new shop another 7 thousand dollars to put another one together for me, so I can then spent the next several weekends ripping my car completely apart again and dropping a new motor in. Sorry, I just don't have it in me. This stopped being fun a while ago. Say I did what you suggested: the best case scenario is this: As the summer draws to an end I will have spent a grand total of about 24 thousand dollars to have my car back on the road the way I wanted it: the same car it was before, with a little more power. Even if I could afford to build a whole new engine, I can't deal with the downtime, and I really don't feel like another solo engine swap using hand tools and jackstands...
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #49  
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I understand your frustration. MTI in Houston completely screwed up my car after I built my engine. Thank God I used Erik instead of MTI to build my engine. I was ready to sell everything before Mr. Big referred me to Talyor at Dallas Performance and now I am hapy as a clam.

Money is tight and you need the car now, so if it was me, I would buy a cheap used LS2 longblock take and send the engine to Erik. This will enable you to have your DD and save money while Erik has your forged engine. I doubt your engine is a total loss, so it will not take $7K to fix it. I paid less than that to have HKE build my 427 including the R.E.D sleeve work, parts and labor. When the forged motor is fixed, you can sell the LS2 for what you paid and get the long term project finished. Believe me, it is so worth it when projects like this come together.

Last edited by aTX427; Jun 14, 2010 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #50  
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Have you cc'd the heads yet? 145 psi on a 9.8:1 compression motor just doesn't sound right, regardless of what cam it has. I'm also curious how the guides and seals look after seeing the pistons.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 02:35 PM
  #51  
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I would just buy a cheap, used ls2 longblock and drop it in. Now you have 650 rwhp. You can have this motor looked at, repaired, and then recoup some $$.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 02:58 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Neil B
Have you cc'd the heads yet? 145 psi on a 9.8:1 compression motor just doesn't sound right, regardless of what cam it has. I'm also curious how the guides and seals look after seeing the pistons.
They are stock LS2 heads, so unless LME found a way to increase the chamber volume without any porting work, I'm fairly certain that the heads CC out at 65ccs as they should.
The seals are new, and they look that way too... I'll have the head porter double check that for me though.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 03:01 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by user_name
I would just buy a cheap, used ls2 longblock and drop it in. Now you have 650 rwhp. You can have this motor looked at, repaired, and then recoup some $$.
That means doing not one, but TWO more engine swaps... AND I'd still need to spend several thousand dollars. No thanks!
I can see how it might make sense to you from an outside perspective (I.E. Yes, there are not too many other ways I could fix this), but rigth now I am just way too tired and far too upset about the whole deal to be willing to devote that kind of time and money to the car.

It ran "fine" before, it will still run fine after I deck the heads. I'm driving it as-is even if the engine is junk because that is the only option that doesn't have me pouring more money (and time) into the car
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 03:44 PM
  #54  
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Sorry, Sam, but there is nothing "fine" about how that engine was running. I would caution you from putting the engine together with additional compression until you fix the problem. Don't waste money on those heads unless they need repair. My car made 905whp on stock LS2 head castings and a bone stock LS2 intake with 9.55:1 compression and 16.5# of boost. Unless you fix the problem, all 10.5:1 is going to do is fail the engine sooner.

Last edited by aTX427; Jun 14, 2010 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #55  
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I'm really surprised that LME won't do anything for you... Its definitely not normal, regardless of what they say. Sam you are out of money and time... I wouldn't allow them to get away scott free if you were sold a bad motor. Best case you are made whole on the engine, worst case you end up no better off than where you are right now. Most likely you will end up somewhere in between, but at least it takes some of the sting out of it.

Personally I would press the issue further with them on the phone first, then followed up in writing. I'm not saying to throw out the "L" word, just another conversation at this point. I hope it works out for you, I feel for your situation.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:18 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by PowerLabs
That means doing not one, but TWO more engine swaps... AND I'd still need to spend several thousand dollars. No thanks!
I can see how it might make sense to you from an outside perspective (I.E. Yes, there are not too many other ways I could fix this), but rigth now I am just way too tired and far too upset about the whole deal to be willing to devote that kind of time and money to the car.

It ran "fine" before, it will still run fine after I deck the heads. I'm driving it as-is even if the engine is junk because that is the only option that doesn't have me pouring more money (and time) into the car
2? You just drop the working longblock in there. The LME time bomb gets sold once a shop R&R's it. You could pay a shop labor to do the swap or possibly even barter with the engine you have. I'd cut my losses if I was as frustrated as you. I wouldn't put it back together in less than an optimal condition.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:33 PM
  #57  
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LME at the very least owes you to tare that short block down and find the problem. I know you are very frustrated and you want to give up. At the end of the day it is your decision. I would check with them to see if they would at least do that for you, at no charge. They would have a hard time selling another engine on this forum if they weren't willing to do that. Good Luck!
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #58  
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I wish LME would step in an make this right...it would go a long way for their credibility.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Streetfast
LME at the very least owes you to tare that short block down and find the problem. I know you are very frustrated and you want to give up. At the end of the day it is your decision. I would check with them to see if they would at least do that for you, at no charge. They would have a hard time selling another engine on this forum if they weren't willing to do that. Good Luck!
The problem with that idea is he would have to take the time to remove the motor (and be w/o a DD), box it up, pay for shipping, ship it to them, wait around, then do the whole process again in reverse...In addition to that, by the time the motor is back in the car the summer will most likely be all but over and he will have missed out on the best months for driving.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Driver84
The problem with that idea is he would have to take the time to remove the motor (and be w/o a DD), box it up, pay for shipping, ship it to them, wait around, then do the whole process again in reverse...In addition to that, by the time the motor is back in the car the summer will most likely be all but over and he will have missed out on the best months for driving.
lme should ship out a brand new motor and ask for the paperweight back at sams convenience...
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