KB boost a Pump with Edlebrock E-force
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
KB boost a Pump with Edlebrock E-force
Hi guys, just doing some home work before getting the LS2 1593 Edlebrock E-force supercharger.
I plan on installing the KB boost a pump with Racetronix Harness along with 3.50 in pulley instead of the 3.875 pulley.
I know that a lot of guys had no problem with KB BAP with Vortech, ECS, etc and set the BAP to come on at 4 psi or so however since the PD type supercharger would come on at lower RPM, I would probably be getting into boost without giving it a lot of gas and therefore would have the BAP turn on most of the time which would be hard on the stock fuel pump.
My question is that since I will probably be about 6-7 psi max with the 3.50 in pulley, if I set the BAP to come on at 4 psi, do you guys think it would hard on the stock pump?
Since I have an A6 and don't want to replace the stock pump since it would be expensive, do you guys think I would be OK using the BAP and setting it at 4 psi or would you just recommend forgetting about the BAP and just install the 3.875 in pulley that comes with the 1593 kit and just live with less HP? Thanks
I plan on installing the KB boost a pump with Racetronix Harness along with 3.50 in pulley instead of the 3.875 pulley.
I know that a lot of guys had no problem with KB BAP with Vortech, ECS, etc and set the BAP to come on at 4 psi or so however since the PD type supercharger would come on at lower RPM, I would probably be getting into boost without giving it a lot of gas and therefore would have the BAP turn on most of the time which would be hard on the stock fuel pump.
My question is that since I will probably be about 6-7 psi max with the 3.50 in pulley, if I set the BAP to come on at 4 psi, do you guys think it would hard on the stock pump?
Since I have an A6 and don't want to replace the stock pump since it would be expensive, do you guys think I would be OK using the BAP and setting it at 4 psi or would you just recommend forgetting about the BAP and just install the 3.875 in pulley that comes with the 1593 kit and just live with less HP? Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 790
Likes: 63
From: Ft Worth TX
I have just that setup, 3.50" pulley, A6, and BAP w/ Racetronix harness. No problems so far. I'm using the hobbs switch that came with the BAP to activate it. Don't recall if it is 3 or 4 lbs.
If I break the trans or diff I'll replace the pump while I have it apart.
I've only got maybe 2000 miles on the setup, and all is well. Fuel pressure does not sag and my AFR looks good all the way up the RPM/Boost curve.
If I break the trans or diff I'll replace the pump while I have it apart.
I've only got maybe 2000 miles on the setup, and all is well. Fuel pressure does not sag and my AFR looks good all the way up the RPM/Boost curve.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
My two cents worth…
How do you use your car? Street car only or ????
Run flat tires or something stickier? If you are sticking with run flats you won’t want more power than the base kit
Are you doing the work yourself or paying someone to do the install?
-Install the 1593 kit as-built. Drive it for a month or two and then see if you “need more”
-Decision point…the 3.5” pulley is going to give you about 50 flywheel horsepower…about 40-ish at the wheels…not a lot
-Why not skip the 3.5” and go to the 3.25”? Add the BAP and Racetronix harness and a set of 65lb FAST injectors
How do you use your car? Street car only or ????
Run flat tires or something stickier? If you are sticking with run flats you won’t want more power than the base kit
Are you doing the work yourself or paying someone to do the install?
-Install the 1593 kit as-built. Drive it for a month or two and then see if you “need more”
-Decision point…the 3.5” pulley is going to give you about 50 flywheel horsepower…about 40-ish at the wheels…not a lot
-Why not skip the 3.5” and go to the 3.25”? Add the BAP and Racetronix harness and a set of 65lb FAST injectors
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,575
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
Howdy,
As a point of reference, I have the 1593 kit on my otherwise bone stock 2007 6 speed. I also have the 3.5" pulley. I still run the stock fuel pump and NO BAP. The tuning showed the BAP was not necessary for my car.
You can see from my dyno chart that I'm getting anywhere from 3.5 to 8 PSI of boost.
Ken (Motorhead) makes a good point too - I still have the stock runflats on my car and drive the car back and forth to work for the most part. I'm thinking of going back to the 3.875 pulley in order to make 1st and 2nd gear a little more useful.
Jeff
As a point of reference, I have the 1593 kit on my otherwise bone stock 2007 6 speed. I also have the 3.5" pulley. I still run the stock fuel pump and NO BAP. The tuning showed the BAP was not necessary for my car.
You can see from my dyno chart that I'm getting anywhere from 3.5 to 8 PSI of boost.
Ken (Motorhead) makes a good point too - I still have the stock runflats on my car and drive the car back and forth to work for the most part. I'm thinking of going back to the 3.875 pulley in order to make 1st and 2nd gear a little more useful.
Jeff
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,075
Likes: 6
From: Wilmington NC
I just talked to ECS about an LS2 install on my 07 A6 a couple of days ago. They actually do an install using a BAP (I don't know which) and the 3.5" pulley with the 1593 kit as an alternative to using the 1594 kit that uses a ZO6 fuel pump. These guys are well recognized experts in FI and if they're using this method, I'd have to say it's a safe way to go that does save some substantial money.
I'm making the same decision for my Spring install whether to just go with the full blown 1594 kit, use the BAP with the 1593 kit or just do a 1593 kit install and maybe later add the 3.5" pulley and BAP if necessary.
Note that I don't have any plans to race or track my Vette and am looking more to maintaining the Vette's reliability but would like to get the maximum hp under those conditions at the same time.
I'm making the same decision for my Spring install whether to just go with the full blown 1594 kit, use the BAP with the 1593 kit or just do a 1593 kit install and maybe later add the 3.5" pulley and BAP if necessary.
Note that I don't have any plans to race or track my Vette and am looking more to maintaining the Vette's reliability but would like to get the maximum hp under those conditions at the same time.
Last edited by j_digi454; Jan 10, 2011 at 09:23 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
I’m still on stock run flats with a 3.25” pulley and 65lb injectors (Z06 fuel pump). There is no way I can use all of the horsepower and torque as-is. I’m not at all interested in going to “R” compound tires (short wear life, poor wet weather performance and crappy handling) so until I can cough up the $8k or so it will take me to go widebody, I just chuckle when the car breaks the tires loose in 3rd. I manage traction the old fashioned way…with my right foot.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 4
From: Joplin MO
I’m still on stock run flats with a 3.25” pulley and 65lb injectors (Z06 fuel pump). There is no way I can use all of the horsepower and torque as-is. I’m not at all interested in going to “R” compound tires (short wear life, poor wet weather performance and crappy handling) so until I can cough up the $8k or so it will take me to go widebody, I just chuckle when the car breaks the tires loose in 3rd. I manage traction the old fashioned way…with my right foot.
Very good post
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
My two cents worth…
How do you use your car? Street car only or ????
Run flat tires or something stickier? If you are sticking with run flats you won’t want more power than the base kit
Are you doing the work yourself or paying someone to do the install?
-Install the 1593 kit as-built. Drive it for a month or two and then see if you “need more”
-Decision point…the 3.5” pulley is going to give you about 50 flywheel horsepower…about 40-ish at the wheels…not a lot
-Why not skip the 3.5” and go to the 3.25”? Add the BAP and Racetronix harness and a set of 65lb FAST injectors
How do you use your car? Street car only or ????
Run flat tires or something stickier? If you are sticking with run flats you won’t want more power than the base kit
Are you doing the work yourself or paying someone to do the install?
-Install the 1593 kit as-built. Drive it for a month or two and then see if you “need more”
-Decision point…the 3.5” pulley is going to give you about 50 flywheel horsepower…about 40-ish at the wheels…not a lot
-Why not skip the 3.5” and go to the 3.25”? Add the BAP and Racetronix harness and a set of 65lb FAST injectors
Running PS2
Friend doing the install.
I had a Vortech with a 4.50 in pulley at 6 psi, putting down 521 rwhp and would hope that by going to a 3.50 pulley, I would be around the same HP.
Not looking for more than 500-520 rwhp because I can't put the power to the ground.
I am just worried about the over stressing the stock fuel pump because with the Vortech, the boost doesn't come on until 3500 rpm or so, the BAP will not come on much. However with the E-Force, I was told that the boost will come on about 2K rpm therefore will put stress on the stock fuel pump even if I am not really getting into it.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
Just trying to gauge how much stress a BAP would have on my stock fuel pump on an E-Force in everyday driving.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
Two thoughts to extending your pump’s life
-The Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump is not an all or nothing device. You might consider dialing in something less than 100% of the voltage increase
-Your fuel pump’s life is at least somewhat dependent on cooling from the fuel in the tank/s. More fuel equal more cool…try to keep the tank far away from ¼ full
-The Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump is not an all or nothing device. You might consider dialing in something less than 100% of the voltage increase
-Your fuel pump’s life is at least somewhat dependent on cooling from the fuel in the tank/s. More fuel equal more cool…try to keep the tank far away from ¼ full
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
Two thoughts to extending your pump’s life
-The Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump is not an all or nothing device. You might consider dialing in something less than 100% of the voltage increase
-Your fuel pump’s life is at least somewhat dependent on cooling from the fuel in the tank/s. More fuel equal more cool…try to keep the tank far away from ¼ full
-The Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump is not an all or nothing device. You might consider dialing in something less than 100% of the voltage increase
-Your fuel pump’s life is at least somewhat dependent on cooling from the fuel in the tank/s. More fuel equal more cool…try to keep the tank far away from ¼ full
I will remember to keep my fuel at half of better just to be safe.
Thanks again for the information.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,075
Likes: 6
From: Wilmington NC
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
I don't think you are getting my point. The pressure switch only opens and closes the circuit that activates the BAP. There is also a variable controller that comes with the KB BAP that allows you to adjust the voltage. I'm suggesting that you might want to set the variable voltage adjustment to something less than 100%.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
I don't think you are getting my point. The pressure switch only opens and closes the circuit that activates the BAP. There is also a variable controller that comes with the KB BAP that allows you to adjust the voltage. I'm suggesting that you might want to set the variable voltage adjustment to something less than 100%.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
You fuel pump normally operates at about 13 volts. The BAP, when powered up by the pressure switch circuit closing, amplifies the voltage to as much as about 18 volts which in turn spins the pump faster. This allows the pump to move more fuel which in turns allows you to maintain the 58psi under higher volume demand. A lot of guys just cut the adjustable switch off and wire the the two leads together so you get the full voltage all of the time when the pressure switch closes. I'm suggesting that you might want to try a 50% setting, watch your fuel pressure and if eveything is ok, leave it alone at 50%. This puts less wear and tear on the stock C6 pump.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
You fuel pump normally operates at about 13 volts. The BAP, when powered up by the pressure switch circuit closing, amplifies the voltage to as much as about 18 volts which in turn spins the pump faster. This allows the pump to move more fuel which in turns allows you to maintain the 58psi under higher volume demand. A lot of guys just cut the adjustable switch off and wire the the two leads together so you get the full voltage all of the time when the pressure switch closes. I'm suggesting that you might want to try a 50% setting, watch your fuel pressure and if eveything is ok, leave it alone at 50%. This puts less wear and tear on the stock C6 pump.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,502
Likes: 82
Thanks for the info. Can I get my tuner to monitor this when he is tuning my car? I figure I would get him to start at 50% to see if it is enough, if not then he can increase it by 10% each time and see the fuel flow. I figure if I am paying him to tune my car, he might as well adjust my BAP at the same time. What do you think of this idea? I am just worried that I won't be able to watch my fuel pressure gauge and drive at the same time. I can monitor it after it has been adjusted but would feel better if my tuner adjust it first.
Last edited by Motorhead-47; Jan 11, 2011 at 06:05 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,287
Likes: 1
From: Union City CA
