Overheating and heat risen valve
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 925
Likes: 7
Creative thinking but over complicating it. The OP simply needs to start over and do it right. Iron Dog, bump the starter with the #1 plug removed and using your finger to feel for air being pumped out of #1, set it to TDC on the compression stroke. Pull the cap and see where it's pointing. I'd bet not on #1. 
Disconnect everything and pull up and re drop the distributor so it's pointing to #1 with the engine on TDC on the compression stroke. Once that's done, re time. Get it right and test drive and let us know if you still have an overheating problem.
Disconnect everything and pull up and re drop the distributor so it's pointing to #1 with the engine on TDC on the compression stroke. Once that's done, re time. Get it right and test drive and let us know if you still have an overheating problem.No disrepect to you or the OP. I'm new here. Given the uncertainty on the part of the OP on some timing basics, I thought it was easier to take this route than to try to explain how to change the distributor rotor one tooth, the rotation of the rotor as you pull the distributor up and then re-install it and the fun of aligning the distributor tang and the oil pump driveshaft. If this were my car, I certainly would be pulling the dizzy and doing what you suggest.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
This is my situation:
What I would like to do is to mark distributor cap position, remove cap, rotate distributor base counter-clockwise, reinstall cap as the picture in order to be able to move the distributor with the cap installed. One thing I'm worry about: have too advance.
I know I should remove the distributor and realign it, but:
1) I'm a bit afraid, it's the first time...
2) according to lars paper and the picture he puts, my distributor HAS to be rotated counter-clockwise in order to be in the same position he describes...
What I would like to do is to mark distributor cap position, remove cap, rotate distributor base counter-clockwise, reinstall cap as the picture in order to be able to move the distributor with the cap installed. One thing I'm worry about: have too advance.
I know I should remove the distributor and realign it, but:
1) I'm a bit afraid, it's the first time...
2) according to lars paper and the picture he puts, my distributor HAS to be rotated counter-clockwise in order to be in the same position he describes...
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Here is the easiest way, if you are now 2° retarded.
Take cap off.
Remove dist clamp and bolt.
Standing on driver's side, with left hand resting on manifold and fingers slowly pushing up dist; use right hand to hold slight counterclockwise pressure on rotor. Pry dist very, very slowly up with left hand fingers and you will feel dist gear releasing from cam gear. Lift up just a hair more and while your right hand applies pressure in clockwise rotation, you will feel the rotor and gear skip 1 tooth.
Press down the dist. It may not seat and leave a 1/4" gap at the manifold, either jiggle it or have someone just click the starter while pushing down on the dist and it will seat. Stay clear of rotor while pushing.
Time with a light. You should now be able to advance with no interference.
All this does it keep the dist housing in the same position and advances the rotor. If not enough for your particular advance, do it again.
Sounds confusing, but it's very simple and only takes a minute.
Take cap off.
Remove dist clamp and bolt.
Standing on driver's side, with left hand resting on manifold and fingers slowly pushing up dist; use right hand to hold slight counterclockwise pressure on rotor. Pry dist very, very slowly up with left hand fingers and you will feel dist gear releasing from cam gear. Lift up just a hair more and while your right hand applies pressure in clockwise rotation, you will feel the rotor and gear skip 1 tooth.
Press down the dist. It may not seat and leave a 1/4" gap at the manifold, either jiggle it or have someone just click the starter while pushing down on the dist and it will seat. Stay clear of rotor while pushing.
Time with a light. You should now be able to advance with no interference.
All this does it keep the dist housing in the same position and advances the rotor. If not enough for your particular advance, do it again.
Sounds confusing, but it's very simple and only takes a minute.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
Here is the easiest way, if you are now 2° retarded.
Take cap off.
Remove dist clamp and bolt.
Standing on driver's side, with left hand resting on manifold and fingers slowly pushing up dist; use right hand to hold slight counterclockwise pressure on rotor. Pry dist very, very slowly up with left hand fingers and you will feel dist gear releasing from cam gear. Lift up just a hair more and while your right hand applies pressure in clockwise rotation, you will feel the rotor and gear skip 1 tooth.
Press down the dist. It may not seat and leave a 1/4" gap at the manifold, either jiggle it or have someone just click the starter while pushing down on the dist and it will seat. Stay clear of rotor while pushing.
Time with a light. You should now be able to advance with no interference.
All this does it keep the dist housing in the same position and advances the rotor. If not enough for your particular advance, do it again.
Sounds confusing, but it's very simple and only takes a minute.
Take cap off.
Remove dist clamp and bolt.
Standing on driver's side, with left hand resting on manifold and fingers slowly pushing up dist; use right hand to hold slight counterclockwise pressure on rotor. Pry dist very, very slowly up with left hand fingers and you will feel dist gear releasing from cam gear. Lift up just a hair more and while your right hand applies pressure in clockwise rotation, you will feel the rotor and gear skip 1 tooth.
Press down the dist. It may not seat and leave a 1/4" gap at the manifold, either jiggle it or have someone just click the starter while pushing down on the dist and it will seat. Stay clear of rotor while pushing.
Time with a light. You should now be able to advance with no interference.
All this does it keep the dist housing in the same position and advances the rotor. If not enough for your particular advance, do it again.
Sounds confusing, but it's very simple and only takes a minute.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Then, to advance the timing, you then move the dist CCW.
Think on it, you'll get it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
Of course, doing this I realized why Lars suggests to install the distributor rotated 45°... in order to have RPM cable straightened.... can anybody tell me how to do? I hope not to have the distributor removed... thanks!
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 471
Likes: 3
Guys could you confirm me I don't have to remove the distributor in order to move it to the alternative position Lars suggests? Thanks!
