I'm certain that something must have been posted about this. My left (driver) side turn signal/DRL has burned out twice in the past year. It gets so hot that it melts the socket. What's up with this?

 

yep, just do a search and you will find tons of info on this great forum.

 

You probably have a hole in your corner lamp as well.

What I suggest is pulling it, sealing the hole (or replace), replace your DRLS with leds (we offer several), and install a hyperflash harness. It will never happen again. The leds don't get near as hot as stock bulbs.

 

thats my plan...looking at doing switchbacks...tired of the bulbs exploding

 

The DRLs melt the housing

Pull the unit and you'll probably find a hole that's letting water into the bulb socket.

I inhibited my DRLs in 2003. I'm still on my first set of bulbs.

 

Document ID# 655625
2002 Chevrolet Corvette
________________________________________
Park/Turn Signal/Side Marker Lamp Replacement
Removal Procedure



1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the front fascia lower closeout panel.


3. Release the brake caliper cooling duct from the front fascia, and position the duct aside.



4. Remove the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining spring from the lamp bracket.
5. Remove the lamp bracket retaining spring from the front fascia.
6. Remove the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws.



7. Disconnect the sockets from the lamp.




8. Remove the lamp, with the bracket, from the vehicle.
9. Remove the lamp to bracket retaining screws.
10. Remove the lamp from the bracket.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp into position on the front turn signal lamp bracket.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
2. Install the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp to bracket retaining screws.
Tighten
Tighten the front park/turn signal and sidemarker lamp to bracket retaining screws to 2 N•m (18 lb in).
3. Install the sockets to the lamp.
4. Install the lamp, with the bracket, to the front fascia.
5. Align the lamp to the opening in the front fascia and hold the lamp firmly in place against the fascia, while installing the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws.
Tighten
Tighten the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining screws to 3 N•m (27 lb in).
6. Install the lamp bracket retaining spring to the front fascia.
7. Install the front turn signal lamp bracket retaining spring to the lamp bracket.
8. Position the brake caliper cooling duct to the front fascia and press the duct toward the fascia to secure.
9. Install the front fascia lower closeout panel. Refer to Close Out Panel - Front Bumper Fascia Lower in Bumpers.

 

thanks for the info. Tried a search and came up with the "Electrical" sticky with 1000+ posts.

 

This one is quite common

 

It's very informative...about thousands of things which aren't (yet) problems.

 

I wound up replacing both lamp housings within a couple of months of each other because of this problem on my '98 C5 (60 K miles). DRL heats the housing, creates a very small crack directly above bulb, lets in moisture, ultimately causing bulb to fail. Tried replacing bulb couple of times; the third bulb exploded, leaving bits of very visible amber glass scattered about the lens, looked like hell.

Symptom of impending doom: visible moisture condensation on inside of the DRL/turn signal lens.

 

How do you "inhibit" the DRL's?

 

Either pull the A2 fuse but you'll lose the approach lights or do the relay mod:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...e-the-drl.html

 

Thanks DeeGee

I haven't had any issues with melted light lenses yet but it's nice to know I have the option of disabling the DRL if I want.

 

Pull the 2 DRL relays and insert an insulator between the contacts in each one and reinstall. No more DRLs, no codes, no heat-damaged housing (since DRLs are not always on and generating constant heat), no corroded sockets from water intrusion due to burned/cracked housing.

Note: If you already have a heat damaged housing (cracked/split), repair it to prevent future water intrusion, or replace it/them. If you have heat/water damaged bulb sockets, replace it/them; there are a number of sources including Summit Racing which sells Pico Wiring brand. Part #5447PT for $6.95ea. I have used them, they work fine and have blue/brown/black wires instead of all three white like some others.

For folks that want to keep the DRL function, see post #3. JW can fix you up with the LED conversion.

 

Thanks again, this help me replace my front left turn signal bulb.. I then replaced all the front turn and parking light bulbs, figure if one goes out, the other is just days away from doing the same.. (I think that is logical, one goes the other goes soon due to total hours of burn time, does anybody else buy into that)..