So 10 days or so ago I was haveing problems with the car starting and getting the remove replace key after the car would sit a full day or two. Bill C. Helped me out and found that my battery had a bad cell.

Was told to get a battery tender as well to keep the battery up. Didn't do that till today.

So anyway I have been going out starting the car every day and taking a short cruise. Fires right off and drives with no problem. Watch the volt gauge and seeits charging 14 volts right off and after blipping around it drops to around 13-13.5 or so on the gauge. So I see the batt get a full charge and head home.

I hadn't driven or started the car for the past 3 days and went out to fire it off and see if all was good. Not, wouldn't even turn over, just a buzzin from the engine bay. Jumped it, it started but died much like when I had gotten the R&R the key. So let it charge for a few and started fine and ran great on a short hop. Didn't wanna stray far.

So went right down got a tender and hooked it up. Car started fine after a few hrs. Before I had put the tender on it.

Sure it will be fine on the am. Do all C5 owners have tenders on there cars or what. Is this something that is normal, because I'm haveing a hard time believing a corvette can't sit 3 days and then not start. Brand new yellow top battery.

Did owners of brand new C5s have this problem when they bought there cars? Or is it something that developed over time, model/year related?

I've been outta the modded/ sports car world for sometime, back in the day if the alt was good you most likely had positive goin to grd aka short.
Draining the batt.

Any input would be much appreciated and if this is normal could someone explain why the batt is draining on the car. Just never have heard of something like this, and I just don't get how Chevy could sell the car without included tender at least, lol.

 

The C5 is terrible for parasite drain.First thing i did when i got my Z06 was get a new battery and a good tender.If i am not driving it then it is hooked up.http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinu...3&blockType=G3

 

I never have a problem. Mine can sit for a long time and fire right up, as it's not my daily driver. I do put a tender on it in the winter occasionally if I'm not going to drive it for a while. Maybe this helps prolong the battery life.

I think you have some other issues, as a couple days shouldn't drain the battery.

 

You have a problem with your car. I've never put a tender on my car over the summer months. I do drive it a fair bit but it can sit a week or more sometimes over the summer. I would also be suspect of a loose connection, possibly down at the starter solenoid where the alternator wires connect to the main battery cable.

 

the best thing to do is leave a battery tender on at all times

 

I frequently have business out of the country and the 02 Z sits for 1-2 to 3 weeks. When I get home, she always fires right up.
SO the answer to your question is NO,,,,,,, Its NOT normal for your car to drain the battery in a few days.


Your car should be able to sit idle for 30+ days and be able to start if the battery is up to par.

Conduct the battery drain current draw test and see what the current draw value is. If something is staying on after shut down, you have to hunt it down and fix it.


BC

 

Thanks all much appreciated, ill start as stated above and see what I can find today.

It's ok to pull fuses and relays with batt connected or disconnect the batt each time I R&R ?

 

I just spent four weeks in the hospital and came home a few days ago.. today I went into the garage and my car started right up.. No evidence of it sitting at all. Battery is 5 years old. Red top Optima.

 

The only time I use the tender is in the winter on my 04. Some times it will not be used for a couple of weeks in the summer and will always fire right up. So you either have a bad battery or a drain of some sort. Listen to Bill C as his is man to figure out what is going on with your car.

 

^same battery I'm running too, I've had no issues with it for a year, and I even listen to my radio while cleaning my car without starting it afterwards lol I left home for 2 1/2 weeks last month, came home and the car fired right up first try.

 

Got to the car this am, with meter inline on neg side I'm reading 0.05A

Little high vs what I should be seeing, 15-25mA

Off to start pullin fuses in pass compartment

Thanks for the help guys
Joe

 

These factory manuals really gettin me POed

Page 8-415 has diagram of the fuses and such, but I can't find a listing of what each fuse is for. Effin retarded or I am, lol

 

The paper version of the manuals is very difficult to follow since it was just copied from the electronic version. Look for a section called Power Distribution schematics that is broken down into the various power distribution cells. There will be a schematic for each cell showing the involved fuses, the fuse number, the fuse name and the associated schematics.

In the electronic version it is located in Body and Accessories | Wiring Systems | Schematic and Routing Diagrams

Bill

 

Look at the inside of the fuse box lid(s)

 

Is there any thing special to do when replacing or pulling the battery? I know this is a stupid question but after my 2004 has set for 2 months my battery is also almost dead. I was charging it in the car for an hour and it is still pulling about 7 amps. Anyway I don't want to fry anything.

 

Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 7 amps is pretty much normal when you first connect it. Its powering up all the lighting, the head light motors jog and reset, the modules are receiving their hot at all times power...ect

A few seconds after the connection, it should start shedding loads and drop down to 2 amps then 1 amp and then settle into 0.025 amps.

It can take as long as 12 min if you have something on the RAP circuit that is ON. After 12 min, the RAP circuits time out and hopefully shut off.

Give it some time and see what it does.

BC

 

The only problem is if the car sits for more than 90 days or more and the battery is a few years old.

As crazy as this nay sound several dealers that I know have said that is the car has a manual trans store it in reverse.

Began doing that and left my tender off once and came back after about 5 months and the thing started

And by the way if your thinking replacing the battery with an optima and are using a battery tender don't get a yellow top it is primarily meant for marine use. Although it will hold a charge for a long time it will not relate well to a battery tender even the new ones

 

That is called the DEAD BATTERY SYNDROME and it ONLY effects the 05 C6 Corvette!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

So,,,, your car sucks up 15-25 MILLIAMPS when in sleep mode.... Depending on what Battery you have, defines how long it will last

IF,,,,,,,,,,,, you need to store the car for an EXTENDED period of time CHARGE he battery and then,,, just disconnect the damn battery!! 100% will NOT cause any C5 issues!

Bill C

 

.386 amp draw in sleep mode

all the small fuses were pulled (both boxes) with no change in draw

pull the BCM fuse & get .025 (something like that)

99 FRC, windows & door locks don't work (had intermittent problems for years)

Replaced window regulator this winter & everything worked, for 1 day.

Next day same problem, but now battery drains down also.

I think something is stuck in "a mode" but pulling window fuses didn't help the draw

 

There are a couple of things that are HOT at ALL Times that need to be checked. Find the fuse for the headlight control module and also remove the BATT wire on the back of the alternator. If the diodes inside the alternator are defective, it can cause a current draw when the engine is OFF

Bill