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So, i put about 1500 miles on my car after my 222/228 x 114 cam install i did myself. Dropped $500 on a tune with a reputable tuner and I have come to the realization I should have gone FI.
I gained nearly 40 rwhp but here is what i got with it -
1. car shakes at idle and has increased exhaust smell and minor bucking below 1500 rpm
2. With AC on it wants to stall when you let off the gas
3. Louder valvetrain
4. Now with less than 10,000 miles on the car i hear a very slight knock of a lifter which has me worried
I realize #2 can be fixed with some additional tuning but overall my experience with a cam is neutral at best. I plan on putting the stock cam back in this Fall and going with an Eforce.
Am I the only person to have a negative experience with a cam? It seems every cam install on this forum is a cinderlla story. Maybe i am just crazy.
That's a very mild cam that you shouldn't have any driveability issues with. It shouldn't smell if you have cats and the noise is normal, but if you have headers it shouldn't be that much worse.
Agreed. That is a tiny cam. When well tuned you probably shouldn't notice anything but added power. Sounds like a bad tuner experience, not a bad cam experience.
Oh brother, your post gives me pause for concern. Sounds like you have a bad tune. I'm taking my car in for a Fast 102 and GT11 cam tomorrow. My first deep internal engine mod. I'm going to a real reputable shop in Garner NC. Hope I see Cinderella when I pick it up later this week.
Last edited by berk4422; Aug 11, 2014 at 11:40 PM.
I have seen people hate cams, but that is from going way too big. Put a 240/250 cam in a vette and not know what you are getting into, but that cam is tiny and still has negative overlap. No way it should be bucking or have any of those issues.
had the same issues w/ last z06 i owned. cammed life not for me either. FI is the best path.
that said, you can fix it, likely need to trim fuel down at low RPMs. all part of tuning. (my symptoms, similar to yours, consistently improved w/ less fuel at low ends).
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
I think a few things with your car are probably minor...the surging, and the stall is all tune related. Either it is a bad combo of parts, a sensor is dying/dead, or something in the tune is off. That should be easily fixed.
When looking at blowers, turbo's, cams, engine builds.....pick what you want for the car but don't expect to get everything.
I.E. with current technology you will not build a 900 rwhp car that gets 35mpg, idles at 600 RPM, doesn't shake, no cam surge, and requires no maintenance for 100k miles.
So with that being said there are benefits and draw backs on each. A cam/header car is never going to put down the same kind of numbers as a blower car will so it is hard to compare them.
Centri blowers
Pro
Easier install, doesn't require hood change
Effiecent design
Great top end HP
Many sizes of blowers to meet different HP goals
Easy to make big power with
Do not heat soak as bad as a roots blower
drives like stock
Con
Intercooler blocks the radiator, so they run hot
Added weight
belt slip can be an issue
increased load on the front main bearings
generally have to lower the radiator for inlet pipe room
more parts under the hood
may require other mods, fuel pump/clutch/radiator/headers...
Roots blowers (E-force/Maggie)
Pro
Tons of low and mid range torque
increased throttle response
acts like a big block
solid increase in HP
Many kits have an OEM fitment
Easy install
drives like stock
Con
increased weight
prone to heat soak
is not setup for huge power numbers
some kits will require a hood change
may require other mods, fuel pump/clutch/radiator/headers...
Cam'd builds
Pro
no weight added
various designs to meet your HP/RPM goals
has that great cam'd sound
does not tax the cooling system as much as forced induction
less fuel consumption than FI
less cost
Con
not as much HP gain as FI
Will require valve spring changes through it's life
changes the drivablity of the car
depending on the cam, it may surge
automatics will typically require a larger stall torque converter
Agreed with Anthony on all things but the fuel thing. Big cams can kill gas mileage. My very mild cam blower car got better mileage than my big cam car. Just depends on the cam and blower setup. If you get a cam that idles at 950-1000rpm, and can't be driven below 1800rpm then gas mileage is going to take a hit for sure, and could be worse than a blower car that idles at 600 and cruises at 1200rpm all day.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by Unreal
Agreed with Anthony on all things but the fuel thing. Big cams can kill gas mileage. My very mild cam blower car got better mileage than my big cam car. Just depends on the cam and blower setup. If you get a cam that idles at 950-1000rpm, and can't be driven below 1800rpm then gas mileage is going to take a hit for sure, and could be worse than a blower car that idles at 600 and cruises at 1200rpm all day.
Very true....just depends on how it is driven on both accounts. Big boost, that uses a lot of fuel and if you are in boost a lot...you can kill it as well.
I don't know if I saw much over 14-16 mpg on the highway with Lou's ZR1
I think a few things with your car are probably minor...the surging, and the stall is all tune related. Either it is a bad combo of parts, a sensor is dying/dead, or something in the tune is off. That should be easily fixed.
When looking at blowers, turbo's, cams, engine builds.....pick what you want for the car but don't expect to get everything.
I.E. with current technology you will not build a 900 rwhp car that gets 35mpg, idles at 600 RPM, doesn't shake, no cam surge, and requires no maintenance for 100k miles.
So with that being said there are benefits and draw backs on each. A cam/header car is never going to put down the same kind of numbers as a blower car will so it is hard to compare them.
Centri blowers
Pro
Easier install, doesn't require hood change
Effiecent design
Great top end HP
Many sizes of blowers to meet different HP goals
Easy to make big power with
Do not heat soak as bad as a roots blower
drives like stock
Con
Intercooler blocks the radiator, so they run hot
Added weight
belt slip can be an issue
increased load on the front main bearings
generally have to lower the radiator for inlet pipe room
more parts under the hood
may require other mods, fuel pump/clutch/radiator/headers...
Roots blowers (E-force/Maggie)
Pro
Tons of low and mid range torque
increased throttle response
acts like a big block
solid increase in HP
Many kits have an OEM fitment
Easy install
drives like stock
Con
increased weight
prone to heat soak
is not setup for huge power numbers
some kits will require a hood change
may require other mods, fuel pump/clutch/radiator/headers...
Cam'd builds
Pro
no weight added
various designs to meet your HP/RPM goals
has that great cam'd sound
does not tax the cooling system as much as forced induction
less fuel consumption than FI
less cost
Con
not as much HP gain as FI
Will require valve spring changes through it's life
changes the drivablity of the car
depending on the cam, it may surge
automatics will typically require a larger stall torque converter
When you say that a cam will require valve spring changes through it's life, do you mean just changing the valve springs during the install? Or is it common to have to change them often?
When you say that a cam will require valve spring changes through it's life, do you mean just changing the valve springs during the install? Or is it common to have to change them often?
Depending on setup it can be an every 2-3 year thing.
i love my Big Blower cam. Installed and tuned by ecs. exhaust/cam/intake/tune netted me roughly 100whp. I personally love the shake and the louder exhaust.
If i drove it every day.. maybe not.
"When you say that a cam will require valve spring changes through it's life, do you mean just changing the valve springs during the install? Or is it common to have to change them often?"
Yes, with a cam valve springs become a maintenance item. Depends on cam, the springs, how you drive, but checking and possibly replacing them every 20-30k miles should be part of your maintenance plan. With really aggressive cams it could be as quick as every 5-10k but you don't typically see those cams used on street cars.
So, i put about 1500 miles on my car after my 222/228 x 114 cam install i did myself. Dropped $500 on a tune with a reputable tuner and I have come to the realization I should have gone FI.
I gained nearly 40 rwhp but here is what i got with it -
1. car shakes at idle and has increased exhaust smell and minor bucking below 1500 rpm
2. With AC on it wants to stall when you let off the gas
3. Louder valvetrain
4. Now with less than 10,000 miles on the car i hear a very slight knock of a lifter which has me worried
I realize #2 can be fixed with some additional tuning but overall my experience with a cam is neutral at best. I plan on putting the stock cam back in this Fall and going with an Eforce.
Am I the only person to have a negative experience with a cam? It seems every cam install on this forum is a cinderlla story. Maybe i am just crazy.
I put the same cam in my C5 (now gone). The A/C thing is the also the tune. When the air is on, the PCM is supposed to kick up the idle. I only had minimal shaking at idle but I did experience some surging around 1200 but only in the lower gears. I didn't have any advance ground in my cam so that explains some of it. I still got about 30 on the highway though so I didn't lose anything there. My biggest issue was the noise. I couldn't stand listening to what sounded like a solid lifter cam.
If I were to do it again, I would instead have put in an LS7 or LS9 cam in but stay with the 1.7 rockers. Since you are changing cams anyway I would recommend doing that and bringing the noise and reliability back to stock. With the 1.7 lifters, your lift is about stock (around 550) so you can keep your stock springs or just go to a single spring upgrade to keep it safe.
By the way, I tried several different pushrod lengths to change the preload and nothing made a difference in the noise. I now have a 2009 and love it. No change for me. My .02.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by Unreal
"When you say that a cam will require valve spring changes through it's life, do you mean just changing the valve springs during the install? Or is it common to have to change them often?"
Yes, with a cam valve springs become a maintenance item. Depends on cam, the springs, how you drive, but checking and possibly replacing them every 20-30k miles should be part of your maintenance plan. With really aggressive cams it could be as quick as every 5-10k but you don't typically see those cams used on street cars.