When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For those who want to the valves closed on startup. I have found that if you hold down the closed button on the remote while starting the car there is no noise.
Originally Posted by Skidplate
If that works, you could use your one spare Homelink button to use when starting up.
I can confirm this (holding the On button down when starting the car) does indeed work. Thanks Bob!
I've thought about programming a home link button, but I have the remote fob located within easier reach than the homelink buttons, so I've just stuck with that. The only real drawback is that someday I guess the battery will die, but given how infrequently I actually push the buttons is should be a long time.
Got all the parts ordered for the 2016 camaro. One thing different I noticed when I pulled the fuse to keep the valves open for now is that it's 15amp, not 20 like on the vette.
Last edited by jimmypop13; Jan 10, 2016 at 05:12 PM.
I'm going to give this a go in the next few days. I noticed in the OP, you said "Do not reverse the circuit adapter when installing it into the fuse box or it will not work." Since I'm doing this on a camaro with a different fuse box, how can I tell what the right way is before installing so I don't cut wires the wrong length or some other mistake like that?
Here are some pics from the 2016 camaro. I circled the fuse in the first pic. In the second one, I just sat the box in where it would fit and the lid would still close. Seems like a good spot, or maybe the top left. For the ground, I'm thinking about using the large one right outside the box. Does that seem like a good spot?
Thanks!
Last edited by jimmypop13; Jan 10, 2016 at 05:50 PM.
I'm going to give this a go in the next few days. I noticed in the OP, you said "Do not reverse the circuit adapter when installing it into the fuse box or it will not work." Since I'm doing this on a camaro with a different fuse box, how can I tell what the right way is before installing so I don't cut wires the wrong length or some other mistake like that?
Here are some pics from the 2016 camaro. I circled the fuse in the first pic. In the second one, I just sat the box in where it would fit and the lid would still close. Seems like a good spot, or maybe the top left. For the ground, I'm thinking about using the large one right outside the box. Does that seem like a good spot?
Thanks!
Remove the fuse in question, start the car and using a volt meter, determine which of the two sides of the fuse receptacle is hot (+12 VDC). Orient the fuse tap such that the hot leg, shown in the picture below, goes into the fuse slot hot side you determined with the volt meter.
The box location looks OK as long as the lid will close.
You can leave the wires long during the initial installation and test and cut them to the required length after you confirm all is wired correctly.
Last edited by Skidplate; Jan 10, 2016 at 08:03 PM.
Reason: added verbage
Awesome DIY Skidplate. Did this tonight in a few hours while watching TV.
I was out of solder, but I figured out a way to make this solderless. I had some spare spade connectors laying around, and figured out they are the same thickness as the fuse bit. The spade is a soft metal, and if you use just heavy scissors down the middle it will work to replace the fuse soldering. Just make sure to square the end of your cut so you leave enough neck to ensure the spade won't bend or shear off. Don't remember the size, but it was about 22mm long and 5mm in width. See the attached pic.
Awesome DIY Skidplate. Did this tonight in a few hours while watching TV.
I was out of solder, but I figured out a way to make this solderless. I had some spare spade connectors laying around, and figured out they are the same thickness as the fuse bit. The spade is a soft metal, and if you use just heavy scissors down the middle it will work to replace the fuse soldering. Just make sure to square the end of your cut so you leave enough neck to ensure the spade won't bend or shear off. Don't remember the size, but it was about 22mm long and 5mm in width. See the attached pic.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I spent a little over an hour doing this mod, and it works great. I used the outside homelink buttons for on/off.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I spent a little over an hour doing this mod, and it works great. I used the outside homelink buttons for on/off.
Glad to help.
It might be useful if this procedure were made a sticky.
My remote switch box was a little different in that the two case halves were the same height. I also used a regular round ground wire, but it was a plenum rated jacket from another project of mine. I routed the ground wire out the notch that already exists in the lid. I also made sure the ground wire had a "low loop" after exiting the fuse box so water would have to travel "up" to get to the seal.
My mounting for the transmitter was on the pop-up 12V face. Nice sticky 2-sided tape.
This solution is FANTASTIC!
Overall install:
Ground wire going out the existing notch in the lid:
Rockin' the 1LT... What is this Homelink of which you speak?
I've been waiting for a good excuse...
2LT and 3LT cars have three HomeLink buttons on the drivers visor for remote control of garage doors, gates and various other things including NPP exhaust valves when using the remote control circuit.
2LT and 3LT cars have three HomeLink buttons on the drivers visor for remote control of garage doors, gates and various other things including NPP exhaust valves when using the remote control circuit.
Yep! My 2014 was a 2LT, but when I moved to the 2015 A8, it was 1LT. Sorry if my was not obvious. I've been looking for a reason to buy a 2LT visor... This may finally be it!
SkidPlate, I can't thank you enough for the research and work you did on this, also the others involved in the earlier threads as everyone figured out if this could be done, and how the heck to do it.
I have filled in the missing piece of the puzzle, which was never clarified, that is the pesky ground connection (IN THE FUSE BOX).
The Fuse box gasket is a seal to keep moisture out of the box, for obvious reasons. It consists of a collapsible seal in the lid and a pressure rib in the box. Any wires or braids that pass through that seal, break that seal, I could not live with that exposure, so I found a way to keep the entire unit self contained and "PLUG AND PLAY" for easy removal and that does not breach the seal of the fuse box.
The answer to your much earlier question regarding ground connections in the fuse box is...the micro relays. The Vac Pump Relay at position 63 is actually a "Ground Switching" relay, so pole 87 has a continuous ground, regardless of the state of the cars electrical system.
here are the highlights of my install to be used in conjunction with your INCREDIBLE instructions above. The end result is a completely unobtrusive, turnkey solution.
Terminal Lugs
Lug with Relay 63 at pin 87
The Lugs of the VAC PUMP Mini Relay at Position 63 in the Fuse Box
VAC PUMP Relay Location 63 in Fusebox
Locating the Ground Tap Location
Crimped Blade for Ground Tap
Mark Case for shortening
Cut Case Halves
Reassemble Box, No Glue or Tape, screws will hold it together.
Assembled Box
PLUG AND PLAY MODULE
Installed.
Again thanks Skidplate, For all of your hard work and research. And thanks to the folks that helped you out as well.
SkidPlate, I can't thank you enough for the research and work you did on this, also the others involved in the earlier threads as everyone figured out if this could be done, and how the heck to do it.
I have filled in the missing piece of the puzzle, which was never clarified, that is the pesky ground connection (IN THE FUSE BOX).
The Fuse box gasket is a seal to keep moisture out of the box, for obvious reasons. It consists of a collapsible seal in the lid and a pressure rib in the box. Any wires or braids that pass through that seal, break that seal, I could not live with that exposure, so I found a way to keep the entire unit self contained and "PLUG AND PLAY" for easy removal and that does not breach the seal of the fuse box.
The answer to your much earlier question regarding ground connections in the fuse box is...the micro relays. The Vac Pump Relay at position 63 is actually a "Ground Switching" relay, so pole 87 has a continuous ground, regardless of the state of the cars electrical system.
here are the highlights of my install to be used in conjunction with your INCREDIBLE instructions above. The end result is a completely unobtrusive, turnkey solution.
Again thanks Skidplate, For all of your hard work and research. And thanks to the folks that helped you out as well.
was not obvious. I've been looking for a reason to buy a 2LT visor... This may finally be it!
