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1992 stalls when hot

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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 11:25 AM
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Default 1992 stalls when hot

My 1992 LT1 just stalled on me after running for about an hour. It will turn over but I get no spark. I waite about 30 minutes and she started right up no problems, and I was able to drive home.

The car used to do this ALL the time so a few months ago I replaced the Opti, new ICM and coil, and sent ECM out for rebuild and it fixed the issue-- or so I thought. It just did it to me again, first time in a few months it left me stranded on the side of the road after driving for about an hour.

It's also been cold outside but the other day when it stalled it was 60 degrees outside -- I hope its just coincidence, when summer comes I'll find out.

Fuel injector problem maybe? I just bought it used and apparently it sat in a garage for a long time with the previous owner.

Last edited by mase5701; Jan 19, 2017 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 02:33 PM
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Any codes?
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 12:35 AM
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Check engine light is not on, I haven't checked for codes yet, but before when this problem was happening all the time I had code H24 and code H72.

Occasionally the Infl Rest light will come on for a few seconds when I first start it but it goes off.

I also have a problem with the battery dying after a day or 2. If I remove the LCD fuse its not a problem. It's annoying having to pop the fuse out ever time I'm done driving.

The fuel pressure gauge spikes to the max position when I start the engine (but fuel pressure is fine) and the fuel level is stuck reading Lo, so I have to be diligent about refueling. I'm assuming there's something shorted in the cluster I haven't figured it out yet, I can't imagine that's related to the stalling problem. (or could it be?)
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 03:53 PM
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Take the cluster out and see if your battery dying goes away.
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mase5701
Occasionally the Infl Rest light will come on for a few seconds when I first start it but it goes off.
Having the INFL REST light flash 6-7 times then out on start up in Ops Normal.
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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 10:09 PM
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I think we need to chase down the no spark. No spark where? At a plug or at the coil?

Does the Opti-Spark have Power and Ground? Do you have any high resolution or low resolution signals? Guessing never works, neither does shot gunning parts. Testing DOES work.

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Old Jan 21, 2017 | 10:18 PM
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I am betting you did not use thermal grease when you did the coil icm replacement.
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Old Jan 22, 2017 | 09:40 PM
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not wanting to steal your thread or anything but what does it cost to send ecm for rebuid just curious
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Old Jan 23, 2017 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Rubie
I think we need to chase down the no spark. No spark where? At a plug or at the coil?

Does the Opti-Spark have Power and Ground? Do you have any high resolution or low resolution signals? Guessing never works, neither does shot gunning parts. Testing DOES work.

I have a feeling that what this guy is doing is of value. Whatever it is.

But the video would've been a better write-up with still photos of what he is actually doing. This is just watching a VOM for 4 minutes while wondering what the heck he's talking about out of frame.

Typical of the kind of work you get from people who shoot vertical videos.
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tx_94vette
not wanting to steal your thread or anything but what does it cost to send ecm for rebuid just curious
about $500 and change, If you do it yourself you can probably do it for around get it done for around $400, my garage charged me 2 hours of labor for the job.e
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 05:42 PM
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ok thank you, I pulled a spark plug out and I'm back to no spark, gonna pull the new opti , I have 12 volts at coil, blows my mind car starts right up but dies after warm up and wont restart because no voltage to plugs
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 06:24 PM
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Instead of throwing parts into the car and guessing, I would say get it diagnose before you do anything else.

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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Renfield
I have a feeling that what this guy is doing is of value. Whatever it is.

But the video would've been a better write-up with still photos of what he is actually doing. This is just watching a VOM for 4 minutes while wondering what the heck he's talking about out of frame.

Typical of the kind of work you get from people who shoot vertical videos.
Gee thanks. I didn't see you do a write up or a video. Easy to point and laugh when you didn't even make an attempt.
I KNOW C4's especially late C4's. I know cars in general. I'm just trying to help. Attitudes like yours are why I only visit this forum once a week or so.

Honestly, if you or anyone does not know what I'm talking about off frame. You have NEVER looked at a FSM and quite frankly should not be even trying to fix your car because you won't or it will take you forever to figure it out.....or que parts cannon....

Most if not ALL the answers are in the FSM, if you take the time to read it and understand it. Most of what I talked about is in the FSM. I didn't do the 35 video series, if you go to my channel, to baby feed people. Plenty of that on Youtube. Its Corvette specific info I focused on. I assume you have basic background knowledge, if you don't, educate yourself. Don't be lazy.

Last edited by 93Rubie; Jan 29, 2017 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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Video was very helpful in my troubleshooting, thank you so much,once I dug deeper found no low res signal, changed opti hoping for the best. Sadly looks like I have a bad ccm, pretty sure that's a small fortune to fix it, I had been keeping a battery charger on car for awhile guess I fried something
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Rubie
Gee thanks. I didn't see you do a write up or a video. Easy to point and laugh when you didn't even make an attempt.
I KNOW C4's especially late C4's. I know cars in general. I'm just trying to help. Attitudes like yours are why I only visit this forum once a week or so.

Honestly, if you or anyone does not know what I'm talking about off frame. You have NEVER looked at a FSM and quite frankly should not be even trying to fix your car because you won't or it will take you forever to figure it out.....or que parts cannon....

Most if not ALL the answers are in the FSM, if you take the time to read it and understand it. Most of what I talked about is in the FSM. I didn't do the 35 video series, if you go to my channel, to baby feed people. Plenty of that on Youtube. Its Corvette specific info I focused on. I assume you have basic background knowledge, if you don't, educate yourself. Don't be lazy.
Didn't mean to leave you butt-hurt. But you ASSume way too much. Agree that the FSM is an excellent source of information. It just can't go as far as a GOOD video tutorial.

"Basic background info." would be seeing where you are placing the probes from that VOM. This would be the value add from your video. If I already knew that, I wouldn't need the video. Sadly, you didn't go there. I will stick with the "baby feeders" on youtube. Leave your videos to people who already know it all and don't need them.

I've been decoding FSMs since my first car in '73. Had the '64 T-Bird shop manual on 35mm film. I went into the dark room and made 8x10 B&W prints of the pages I needed.

Honestly meant nothing personal by my comment. I have done photography professionally for over forty years, so I can be a harsh critic of those who think they can just fire up a cell phone an be a videographer.

Why, that would be as crazy as me cracking the FSM and declaring myself a mechanic.

Here's a little free tip I saw posted on the door to Videography 101 class: Until everyone starts mounting their televisions vertically, turn your camera to landscape.

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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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just a update on what was causing my problem was a bad tps , $75 and back on the road
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Tx_94vette
just a update on what was causing my problem was a bad tps , $75 and back on the road
How did you determine the problem (throttle position sensor)?
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 09:16 AM
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i had a high eratic idle and it felt like the transmission was going out, it wouldn't hardy shift, i had low voltage on tps, which sends the position of the throttle back to the ccm, without that input you get a asr light also, you can snip the black wire coming out of the tps if that clears up your rough idle then that's the culprit
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Old Oct 2, 2017 | 02:26 PM
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Okay, got a new computer replaced a couple of the temp sensors and now everything is running great again. Something happened with that old computer I had, sent it to this place in Grand Prairie Texas 3 times before they finally said they couldn't fix it so I got a new one.


PROBLEM sOLVED!!! (this one anyway)
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Old Oct 3, 2017 | 03:19 PM
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I don’t know about that place in Grand Prairie. I did Google Earth on their address and it didn’t look reputable to me.
But just goes to show, everything needs to be perfect to keep that SES light off.
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