Yes that easy and it worked fine no blinking or overloads .
Now later for safety I ran dedicated wire to battery thru firewall fuse it . Only to insure the factory wire Harness wouldn't have any future problems due to age . This wire was separate fuse to power relays . Didn't cut anything

 

Yes - a ways before the sexy kits were available...what rtruman shows is better if it works like I think it does...

 

No. I did no cutting.

Just unplug the headlights and you can slide two spade lugs to activate the relays right into the existing plug. After all, it's right there and ready to use.

These are a nice secure fit, but I put some electrical tape over it so they can't vibrate out.

 

OK. But with out running yòur dedicated wire. Your using the factory wiring all the way from the dimmer switch though the bulk head to the head lights.. This is probably ok if you don't run high wattage headlight bulbs. Like Frankie says with the low beam halogens it works fine and gives improved lighting.
I may try some higher wattage bulbs later so I think I'll put the relays up high on the inner fender behind the headlights so I can connect into the connection for headlamp bucket extension harness. That's where I will have to separate the two brown wires, one goes to the dimmer switch low beam the other goes to headlights on the other side of the car. The same with the black wire with a green stripe, high beam one goes to the dimmer switch the other goes to the headlight on the other side of the car. The two wires going to the headlights on the other side of the car will get plugged into the outputs of the relays. With this scenario the only stock wiring getting used is the two headlamp extension harnesses and the two wires going from one side of the car over to the other headlights. Mind you, you do disturb the wiring harness at the point in the picture below. This is the plug from the main wiring harness that plugs into the headlamp bucket extension harness . Separate the two Browns and separate the two black with green stripes

 

The reason I used the kit is to avoid cutting stock harness back in the late 90s I made my own relays still tucked everything in kick panel and it worked just like that.
I see your works fine but OMG removing the hood or grill to comfortably splice that together
would be a pain for me.
The way I did it I didn't have draw a diagram trying to figure out the way it all works .Good luck

 

DSR, if you can hold off on this project for a while, I may have a better solution. I ordered some male and female connector housings hoping they match the ones used on our cars. Should be here in a week. If they are correct I can show you how to build your own plug and play harness.

 

No splicing under the fender. Only two connectors to put on the wires that are to be separated which is above the fender as you can see from the above

picture. The rest was done on the bench and plugs into the connection at your headlamp extension harness . as you can see in the picture. I think the tricky part is going to be getting under there to mounting the relays. I don't want to drill any holes so I think I'll try to some two-sided tape and stick them to the inner fender. I'm hoping this location will be dry enough in a bad rainstorm. The three short wiring leads plug into the main harness. The three long wiring leads plug into that headlamp extension harness. The two wires that I separated going to the lights on the other side of the car will plug into the relays in the same location as the long leads. And thanks for the good luck I think I'm going to need it! LOL

 

<br /> I haven't cut any wires yet!
I would be interested to see how that works.

 

so are you just saying use the regular headlight circuit to turn on the headlights which triggers the headlight relay from a jumper wire coming from the seal beam connection? Will this not cause back-feed into the rest of the system and fusing issues? I think that's what you just taught me a few a few threads above this one!

 

I am have at it

 

Ha... 70 posts over 5 days on wiring up two relays.....

I could have 'em fabbed-up, installed and working, sans kit, with original wiring in about two hours (and did)!!

 

Yes, that is exactly what I am saying. You can just pust two spades right into the existing socket as though they were the lugs.

No this will not cause feedback through the system because the headlights are only receiving their power through the relays and not the relays and the existing dash wiring. Remember..., you are going to unplug the existing headlight plugs so you separate the wiring here and this avoids feedback.

The old right side headlight wiring now only triggers the relays. All that amperage that was drawn to run the headlight bulbs through the dash wiring is now reduced to less than 1/2 amp to run the two relays and the bulbs get their current right from the horn relay.

No cutting necessary.

 

The two lugs folded back meet the existing plug for the right hand headlight and activate the relays. The other two sets of three wires go back out to the headlights.

The orange fused wire goes to the horn relay, just above. The relays are within the casing. All wires pass through the core support with the horn wires.

This makes a nice clean set-up and results in the shortest wire runs for the high current lines.

If I were to retain the regulator (I have a 1-wire alt), I would do similar and mount the headlight relays together, on a plate, just on the other side of the core support and extend the fused wire through the hole.

BTW, this is also the cheapest way to go about it.

 

Frankie this has been a fun, interesting little project for me. I have learned a few things and brushed up on my electrical theory. I'm sorry but I don't think your way will support any high wattage high beams to be installed at a later date. But your input has been excellent, and really got me thinking!
Thanks Dave

 

THE FIX... like I said at the beginning of this thread I will most likely put some high-wattage high beam lights in later. So instead of cutting the the wires that run to the opposite side of the car, I will unplug them at the headlight extension harness, tape up the ends for the high beam and low beam. And Run two 14 gauge wires from the two relays across the car to the headlight extension harness connection and plug it in. I was going to upgrade these wires anyway when it came time for some high wattage high beams. This way the original wiring is not touched and it can always be put back to stock if need be. This has been fun job for me. Thanks to everybody
Dave

 

rtruman,

I take it, and you probably said it here somewhere, that you used the Ron Francis relay for only the hi-beams? Otherwise, if you were putting halogen in for both hi-beam and low-beam, you would have used RFWHR58, correct?

 

I used 40 amp relays I got from the Cdn. Tire store. They are sold for additional 12 lighting and horns. $8 each. I ran #12 gauge wire from the alternator to the horn relay buss bar. Then 2 #14 gauge wires from the buss bar through 2 fuses & 2 relays (high & low beam) all the way to the seal beams. My motor is out so my testing was done with a fully charged battery.
With stock wiring and 13.3 volts in the battery I would get 9.5 volts at the seal beams with the high beams on.
With the new wiring & relays and 13.3 volts in the battery I get 11.6 volts at the seal beams with the high beams on.
A 2.1 volt increase.
Tests were done with stock seal beam head lights.
Dave

Novita RL 44. 40 amp

 

This represents a 49% increase in power at the headlights.