RPI Designs C7 Corvette Billiard Style Shifter Balls, many styles & colors available!
In addition to shortening the shift by ~12% since it sits lower on the shift lever, I find the larger size helps with the 1st to 2nd shift and most important to the 4th or 5th to 7th shift that I often use on the Interstate. The larger round **** makes shifting easier. It is the same size as a pool cue ball!
Last edited by JerryU; Sep 26, 2017 at 05:08 PM.
Btw, for those who may have trouble loosening the OEM retainer screw (of either type, Phillips or Torx), may I suggest using a CLEAN-tipped soldering gun to heat the screw for just a few seconds. They are installed with a white, thread-locker. First, if one is accident prone, I suggest completely covering the console with some protection in case one fumbles the hot soldering-gun, not that such would happen, of course!
Last edited by Avanti; Oct 15, 2017 at 09:10 PM.
Btw, for those who may have trouble loosening the OEM retainer screw (of either type, Phillips or Torx), may I suggest using a CLEAN-tipped soldering gun to heat the screw for just a few seconds. They are installed with a white, thread-locker. First, if one is accident prone, I suggest completely covering the console with some protection in case one fumbles the hot soldering-gun, not that such would happen, of course!
Thanks, Chris
I was going to respond via pm with a picture but didn't see how to do that (include a pic). The issue is that the ball was not put on the metal "sleeve" correctly, not completely down over the "knurling" on the sleeve, meaning the **** fits higher on the sleeve than intended, and further from the chrome boot-ring. About 1/16-3/32" (as best I could measure) of the knurling shows below the bottom of the ball. Definitely, not like those pictured in this thread.
I'd have to disassemble the thing to take a pic of the knurling but here is a pic of the ball installed and you can see the O-rings, yours and mine, giving an idea of the mounting height.
If you wish to send a correct one, I assume it will be another couple weeks so I'd like to leave this one on the car so I can use it, but would be happy to return it after I replace it. Thanks again.
Last edited by Avanti; Oct 17, 2017 at 06:57 PM.
Last edited by Avanti; Oct 17, 2017 at 06:59 PM.
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I was going to respond via pm with a picture but didn't see how to do that (include a pic). The issue is that the ball was not put on the metal "sleeve" correctly, not completely down over the "knurling" on the sleeve, meaning the **** fits higher on the sleeve than intended, and further from the chrome boot-ring. About 1/16-3/32" (as best I could measure) of the knurling shows below the bottom of the ball. Definitely, not like those pictured in this thread.
I'd have to disassemble the thing to take a pic of the knurling but here is a pic of the ball installed and you can see the O-rings, yours and mine, giving an idea of the mounting height.
If you wish to send a correct one, I assume it will be another couple weeks so I'd like to leave this one on the car so I can use it, but would be happy to return it after I replace it. Thanks again.
Last edited by duneaholic; Feb 4, 2019 at 03:31 AM.
Just a word of caution. Unlike my old post #22 on this thread, which I I made when I first installed the Cue Ball **** on the OEM shifter on my Grand Sport, after ~6 months I had vibration trouble. I not only removed it, I installed an MGW shifter with a threaded **** (also used a 2 1/4 OD full size Cue Ball **** but with a threaded connection it uses.) It also reduces shift throw 25% and is much better construction than the OEM shifter providing smoother shifts.
DETAILS:
This is a PDF that discusses why I switched and a "How To" on installing an MGW short throw shifter: http://netwelding.com/MGW_Shifter.pdf
Why I Did It: I had that cue ball shift **** on my 2014 OEM shifter for 3 years. No issues. The company changed hands. When I bought the one shown in post #22 for the Grand Sport I sheared the OEM **** screw head when removing! (Suggest using a soldering iron and heating the screw to loosen any Loctite!) I was able to drill out the broken screw (PIA.)
After ~6 months he **** started to vibrate. It got progressively worse. When I called MGW I was told they have had that complaint from others. Not sure if the machining tolerances may have changed. Suggest you test fit the **** before reinstalling and perhaps add thin electrical or Teflon tape if the fit is not very tight.
The MGW shifter has been installed for over 6 months. Love it. Also my Chrome ring came lose from the boot when installing the **** on the OEM shifter. I used silicone adhesive to reattach. The MGW "Flat Stick" shifter solved both issues as the **** is threaded and it comes with it's own rubber grommet!
Last edited by JerryU; Feb 4, 2019 at 08:06 AM.
Thicker o-ring installed
Well I found a thicker oring at home Depot and that seems to have done the trick . I was installing this shift **** on a MGW shifter. I had to use loctite to keep than damn screw from coming out. The stock set up keeps the screw secure under the chrome ring with the RPI **** it's exposed and really needs loctite. If it continues to be an issue I'll just swap out the mgw shaft used for the stock **** and go with the threaded 9/16 shaft and use a c5 **** or maybe the gripper ****. I really thought this rpi was a quality piece but man the manufacturing and design used sure does leave a lot to be desired....for the price you pay especially!
Last edited by duneaholic; Feb 4, 2019 at 05:43 PM.
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Regarding fitment I read that it doesnt fit like the stock **** and boot and there is a gap , will the stock boot ring cover the gap and fitment will be like stock ?















