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I am planning on going to see this car. I have never seen/worked on a 72 frame, just 74&75. This one looks different, bracing in back, diff cover still on (not sure if it is just bolted), one of the side rail pictures looks odd (two rails).
I would appreciate any input on what to look for to confirm it is a 1972. I will be checking the frame for rust, but I don't want to buy it and find out later it doesn't fit the 72 body.
The simplest way is to check for the VIN on the topside of the frame in the areas within the red boxes below.
Compare that to the VIN on the driver's A-pillar post and you'll know if they match. If not, the VIN on the frame will tell you what year it is anyway.
Hi 70'sd
The differential cover IS just bolted (4) in place on the crossmember.
Following G's info you can begin by feeling for a slight depression in the top surface of the frame.
The stamping machine was very powerful and put a slight dent in the frame rail when the stamping was done.
Feeling that will let you know you're looking in the correct locations.
Regards,
Alan
Clean any rust off gently so you don't make the stamp more difficult to see.
It DOES look like the rear crossmember is humped up in the middle. Check that out…. it should be straight.
The owner of this car contacted me about 6 months ago to see if I was interested in buying it. Ontario Orange on Saddle. Said it was dismantled which didn't bother me. After seeing the condition, how long it's been apart and how much is probably lost/missing, I decided to pass on the car. He's dropped his price some since then. It's been on craigslist for quite a while. If you can get it cheap enough (really cheap) it could be OK, but it could soak up a lot of $$$ before it's back on the road.
The simplest way is to check for the VIN on the topside of the frame in the areas within the red boxes below.
Compare that to the VIN on the driver's A-pillar post and you'll know if they match. If not, the VIN on the frame will tell you what year it is anyway.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks for taking the time to answer. I'll look for the frame numbers.
The owner of this car contacted me about 6 months ago to see if I was interested in buying it. Ontario Orange on Saddle. Said it was dismantled which didn't bother me. After seeing the condition, how long it's been apart and how much is probably lost/missing, I decided to pass on the car. He's dropped his price some since then. It's been on craigslist for quite a while. If you can get it cheap enough (really cheap) it could be OK, but it could soak up a lot of $$$ before it's back on the road.
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the reply, I agree it looks rough. I will be cautious and check out what he is offering and the price.
Thanks
The owner of this car contacted me about 6 months ago to see if I was interested in buying it. Ontario Orange on Saddle. Said it was dismantled which didn't bother me. After seeing the condition, how long it's been apart and how much is probably lost/missing, I decided to pass on the car. He's dropped his price some since then. It's been on craigslist for quite a while. If you can get it cheap enough (really cheap) it could be OK, but it could soak up a lot of $$$ before it's back on the road.
When you saw it, did it appear it was the correct frame for a 72?
Last edited by 70s Vette Guy; Nov 26, 2017 at 03:44 AM.
The simplest way is to check for the VIN on the topside of the frame in the areas within the red boxes below.
Compare that to the VIN on the driver's A-pillar post and you'll know if they match. If not, the VIN on the frame will tell you what year it is anyway.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks for the diagram and tips. I'll take it with me.
Hi 70'sd
The differential cover IS just bolted (4) in place on the crossmember.
Following G's info you can begin by feeling for a slight depression in the top surface of the frame.
The stamping machine was very powerful and put a slight dent in the frame rail when the stamping was done.
Feeling that will let you know you're looking in the correct locations.
Regards,
Alan
Clean any rust off gently so you don't make the stamp more difficult to see.
It DOES look like the rear crossmember is humped up in the middle. Check that out…. it should be straight.
Hi Alan,
Thanks for the tip and pictures on the hump, I'll check it out carefully.
I have seen you around the forum a lot. Maybe you might know if I can use a 1975 complete rear end (trailing arms, brakes, spring and axles) on a 72. I have one around and it was in great working condition.
Thanks again.
The Photo of the frame rear is not that good to be sure but it looks to be pre 73.
73 had an extra plate welded to the sides of the rear frame and a loop on each side towards the rear .
74 up the rear of the frame is different, due to the design of the impact equipment fitted.
The chassis number is on top of the frame next to the number 4 body mount.
I can post a photo if that helps
69 to 72 frames are just about identical.
The Photo of the frame rear is not that good to be sure but it looks to be pre 73.
73 had an extra plate welded to the sides of the rear frame and a loop on each side towards the rear .
74 up the rear of the frame is different, due to the design of the impact equipment fitted.
The chassis number is on top of the frame next to the number 4 body mount.
I can post a photo if that helps
69 to 72 frames are just about identical.
Thank you.
I agree the pictures are not very good, it is what the seller has posted. I'll get my own this week. Your comment about the plate and loop I am not sure about. I see a diagonal piece of metal going from the outer frame to the cross member (just behind body mount 3 as the frame rises). Is that the loop you are taking about? If so, where/what is the extra plate?
A few photos of a 73 rear frame. The chalked part is the visual difference that is obvious in the 73 compared to the 69/72 frame .
The loop I mensioned has been cut off , you can see the remains of it best in the last photo to the left of photo top n bottom of frame.
When you saw it, did it appear it was the correct frame for a 72?
I believe it was.
I'm one of those guys that thinks all Corvettes are worth saving and certainly this one is. When I was on, the seller wanted $5K firm. I just couldn't justify it at that point. If he'd been a little more flexible then, it would be in my garage now
Like I said earlier, he seems to have had a bit of a reality check so if you can grab it for a reasonable price, it will be a great project and a nice color combination that you don't see every day.
I just dug through all my old messages and found some of our correspondence.
It's a numbers match 350, automatic with A/C and Power windows. Clean title. Original engine has been rebuilt, frame, suspension and differential are all powder coated.
Good Luck!
Greg
I believe it was.
I'm one of those guys that thinks all Corvettes are worth saving and certainly this one is. When I was on, the seller wanted $5K firm. I just couldn't justify it at that point. If he'd been a little more flexible then, it would be in my garage now
Like I said earlier, he seems to have had a bit of a reality check so if you can grab it for a reasonable price, it will be a great project and a nice color combination that you don't see every day.
I just dug through all my old messages and found some of our correspondence.
It's a numbers match 350, automatic with A/C and Power windows. Clean title. Original engine has been rebuilt, frame, suspension and differential are all powder coated.
Good Luck!
Greg
Thanks, I did see the engine and it is not matching and looks really rough, just a block, cam and crank. The heads are from a truck and need help. I am not sure of the rebuild, the cylinders are scored, everything is rusted. The dirt and rust on the crank will need to be pulled apart and at least polished if in fact it was rebuilt. I hope to see the frame and other parts this week. The body is completely bare, no interior or wire harnesses. Proceeding carefully.
A few photos of a 73 rear frame. The chalked part is the visual difference that is obvious in the 73 compared to the 69/72 frame .
The loop I mensioned has been cut off , you can see the remains of it best in the last photo to the left of photo top n bottom of frame.
Vette Guy
Non of us know it all. and its no trouble to pass on some info.
when you see the frame up close you will be able to make an informed decision.
check out the end of the side rails near where the kick up is attached ,
that's one of the first places to rust.
look inside the body in the foot well where number two mount bolts on.
another common rust area . there is a kick panel that you have to remove to inspect.
take a number two Philips head screw driver with you.
if they wont let you remove the kick panels. walk away.
72 Body and frame questions and identification
