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Played a little bit more with my 3D printed gills. Started over with a sort of LEGO kit so I can just play and see what I like, eyeballed the spacing and hit it with some hot glue.
Thinking I should make all the blades longer in the next iteration. I’ll attach some pics.
Also spent a little time on ttop adjustments, but probably made it worse
I pulled the fuel tank our of my '80 for no other reason than to rescue the build sheet I saw hanging over the front side. Have retrieved it and it is 80% or more legible.
When I put the sniper fuel injection on my exhaust temps went up and Inburnt 2 spark plugs wires off in only two drives. I am running hooker headers. I replaced them and did some rerouting and burnt them again. Did some research and found these ceramic booted plug wires so we put those on and never had a problem again. They are about $100 per set from Summitt racing. They really work. Thanks
Yep. I'm routing my wires under the headers. They are really close under there. I used some expesive Moroso 40 series wires and DEI heat sleeves this time.
Played a little bit more with my 3D printed gills. Started over with a sort of LEGO kit so I can just play and see what I like, eyeballed the spacing and hit it with some hot glue.
Thinking I should make all the blades longer in the next iteration. I’ll attach some pics.
Also spent a little time on ttop adjustments, but probably made it worse
Just an opinion, if you do this (I probably wouldn't) I think you should cant them so they appear to curve down, not up.
Well I have been doing too much lately but hopefully one day I can ride with complete joy! Just ordered new weather stripping for whole car and window bumpers so I can stop the rattling.
I changed out my diff. oil yesterday because of an annoying noise coming from the back end...not sure if this will take care of it or not.
I installed a new aluminum radiator and all new hoses and thermostat. I pulled the door panels off and took a metal brush to my electric lock switches to remove corrosion and go them working again.
I decided to get my new AC compressor out of the box that Iv'e had for a year or more and will start that project before summer so I can ride cool.
How about showing us those Sanderson headers OldCarBum?
I'll take them out of the box tonight and snap a couple of photos, but here is a tease.
Sanderson uses 1 7/8" 16ga mild steel for their primary tubes 3" collectors and 3/8 inch thick flanges. They completely coat the inside and outside with aluminium ceramic coating, then polish the outside to a high luster.
As you know I research the snot out of everything and I found the selection for BB long tube corvette headers is limited to basically two, Hedman and Hooker.
I'll be lowering my suspension and ground clearance for a street corvette is already limited. Long tube headers would reduce my ground clearance even more which was a major concern, so I started looking for short tube headers and Sanderson was recommended.
I called Hedman, Hooker and Sanderson who all told me the same thing.
Short tube and long tube headers are equal in reducing the disturbance of exhaust gases at the cylinder ports, short tube headers will produce more torque and horsepower in the lower rpm range where most street cars are driven, and long tube header will provide better horsepower in the upper rpm ranges typically above 5000 rpm.
The Sanderson short tube headers will easily clear frame rails, power steering, Borgeson boxes, and will provide better ground clearance.
They appear to be the best quality headers I could find for a BB.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I don't race the car. I've had no problems with them. The car has a ZZ4 crate engine and pulls hard. I do know that when I went from from a 600 Edelbrock to a 770 Holley the engine really woke up. No signs of flow restrictions.
Today the pesky little red dash light for the brakes came on AGAIN. I just put Wilwood calipers on the front about a month ago. I bleed it and never was really happy with the feel of the pedal. Anyway that's another story.
Today I added a vacuum reservoir for the brakes. Low engine vacuum at idle. Thought this might help some with the pedal. Not much.
I'm going to have to check the runout on my rear brakes next. My front brakes had a lot of runout that I corrected.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Originally Posted by Street Rat
Today the pesky little red dash light for the brakes came on AGAIN. I just put Wilwood calipers on the front about a month ago. I bleed it and never was really happy with the feel of the pedal. Anyway that's another story.
Today I added a vacuum reservoir for the brakes. Low engine vacuum at idle. Thought this might help some with the pedal. Not much.
I'm going to have to check the runout on my rear brakes next. My front brakes had a lot of runout that I corrected.
I understand the Wilwood brakes can be difficult to bleed because the bleeder is not really at the highest point and they trap air.
Not today but last night. Finished installing the nitrous over the weekend and took it to the track to test it. Only put in a 50 hp shot. Ran 7.40 in the 1/8. I was having traction issues so I know there was a little more there. Have Mickey Thompson's coming for traction and going with a 100 shot next week. If all goes well next week I'll step it up to 150 next.
