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When you all figure out how to tell the 'condition' of the gearset and clutches INSIDE the Differential and what the yokes look like from inside y-all will let me know. Apparently you all have x-ray vision!
As well as all the hidden parts that 'apparent condition' does not apply.
When I went looking for the CE....nothing over 25K would meet my criteria. I found one for the price I wanted with 16,700 miles on it. CONDITION was terrific.
However, I am replacing all bushings, seals, shocks tires, hoses, belts, fluids, etc etc etc etc. I know what i'm getting into...this is my 5th C-3.
Didn't need to TOUCH the Drivetrain.
Take the same car with 116.000k and multiply $$$ by 5.
Yeah, back in '73 I did when the '69 I did buy Lemans blue, white top, 350/300 TH400 (Convert, full power including windows , air) had 40K miles and another '69 a red convert 427 had 55K. Even though I still have the Lemans blue '69, sorta would like to see how it would have been had I gone with the BB.
I couldn't even tell you what is on my 76's odometer as it sits in my garage. The odometer never even crossed my mind, I wanted to look for birdcage rust, what the underneath looked like.... as was already said, Condition, Condition, Condition.
Just wanted to see if anyone really cares about the miles. Unless you looking at a ncrs vette, does it make sense to even consider?
Surprised no one has mentioned this but it does matter if you are shopping for a car with the original motor and seller is asking a premium price. If extremely low miles and car runs perfect this could be a plus. But of course, condition is everything.
BTW - my '70 C3 came to me with 16K on the the odometer and it's still there.
Odometer does not work but speedo does! Isnt that odd?
1. sometimes the title ( if in a title state), will state actual or exceeds mechanical limit ( 100,000 miles)
2. run a title report on the car and it should show mileage reported at title transfer time. ( on some cars/ some states)
as stated earlier.. hard to prove any miles, but increasing the likelihood of the mileage being correct and all else being the same, I would take the lower mileage car, or even pay an increment for it.. although certainly not 30% more.
