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Do you really consider the miles when looking for a C3?
Just wanted to see if anyone really cares about the miles. Unless you looking at a ncrs vette, does it make sense to even consider? Case in point.
-say a 1970 with 60k miles for $20k in ok condition
- say there is another same option, same color same condition ‘70 for $17k, but has over 100k miles
-both have new brakes, fluids, carb rebuilt, etc and are excellent runners.
is the one with lower miles really with the extra $$$, not only from a buying standpoint but from a future resale point.
Thanks! Just want to see everyone’s option. Keeping this to C3’s not any other generation
Unless you get one that just had a frame off restoration done to it, its gonna need some work done on it. At the fifty year old mark, how do you know if its not 160K miles on it?
These cars are so old now that unless mileage can be proven with documentation, it means nothing. Too easy to make it show whatever the seller desires it to show. When shopping for my 70, current condition is all that mattered, the showing 76K seemed believable but that didn't figure in to my decision to pull the trigger. Rust figured highest, mileage figured last.
Absolutely! At 160k most everything is worn out or suspect...unless documentation shows it's not.
The one that gets my 'ire' the most, is guys that make claims of restoration/ rebuil,t and you find (well and good) the engine has been rebuilt at XXX miles....the whole of the rest of it has 160,000!
Cost of a new transmission, rear end, corrosion in the electrical system, every bushing and seal in the car...is prohibitive.
Just a half hour ago I responded to a CR ad....nice looking 82 (copper color) at $8000 asking.....no miles posted. I wrote and inquired , he says "shows 60k". I said "do the numbers the odo numbers line up?"
He said NO....=160k
pass.
We had a 70 mustang with 206k on it in 83 or so. Everything on that car was shot. It wasn't rust. It wasn't 50 years of rubber drying out. It was just worn out. Cars had no 6th digit on the odometers back then for a reason. And instead of a 1 it should have been a headstone with RIP on it.
Last edited by derekderek; Apr 17, 2020 at 07:26 PM.
Absolutely you check out the miles (odometer and visible indicators). That will tell you if the owner is a bold-faced liar or a fool who bought that same 'low-miles' story from a PO.
More important, however, is an assessment of how the car was maintained under the present ownership. In my book, maintenance is EVERYTHING when it comes to purchasing a vintage vehicle.
I bought my '71 in 2005 from a family who had owned it nearly all of its life. Three generations had driven the car over the years. But the owner made sure that all maintenance was done properly and by a Corvette specialty repair shop in San Diego. I got all of the papers and receipts and knew that it had 194K miles on it. But nearly all the "wear" items had been replaced, the paint was completely redone with original color in single-stage poly, the engine had been completely overhauled less than 50K miles prior, and except for the interior wear/tear from 34 years of use (still all-original inside the car...including the original carpet!), everything was there and everything worked.
Was I taking a chance? Yes. But it was a calculated risk and it was a "diamond in the rough" being as original and complete as it was. Just an example of how MILES MATTER, but they aren't the whole story.
In real estate it's location, location, location.
For a 50 year old C3 it's condition, condition, condition.
I have owned my '71 LS5 Convertible for 45 years and it has 55,000 miles. There are some beautiful C3's for sale that have been restored and put originals to shame.
Current condition, quality of work and parts is most important.
A 40 year old car with only 60K miles on it means one of two things...
1) It was pampered and driven only seasonally and will be in amazing shape (and OUT of my price range)
2) For whatever reason, it was parked at 60K and SAT, untouched for 20 or 30 years. (In which case all the seals, ALL of them, will need to be replaced, the calipers are leaking and the tires are rotted and its full of mouse turds......)
If you want a down and dirty test of how a car was maintained, look at the rubber bushings and the brake pedal.
Rotted bushings and unworn pedals means it sat...
Rotted bushings and worn pedal means its been driven and the miles are not accurate
Rotted bushings and a new pedal means the owner is pulling a fast one
New bushings and a worn pedal means someone took some time and replace stuff..
New bushings and a new pedal means the guy really took the time to go over everything and miles shouldnt matter.
Low miles on a running driving survivor is great and is what I would look for if I were to buy another Corvette since I already have the frame off nut and bolt car -but like said so many times before- rubber goes bad either way.
And what even constitutes a high mile 38-52 year old car?
The Corvette DNA app says my car will lose $1000 value in a couple thousand miles because I will go from high mileage ( 50000 to 74999 ) miles to VERY high mileage. The only thing with moving parts (or just about any part period) that has been in use for 73xxx miles and has not been replaced, inspected or serviced is probably my odometer.
1700 miles a year is VERY high? Anyway.
My car is more indicative of a 1972 corvette you would have bought in 1974 because I restored mine as close to factory as possible and then started driving it so I could experience owning a new 1972 Corvette. Not for judging, but I do use their manual.
Hagerty valuation tool does not even mention mileage.
To answer your question my vote goes with condition first, then price, then mileage.
From a resale standpoint though there are sure to be some people who will use the corvette DNA mileage guide as a way to beat down the price on the 100k miles car. It may also limit your pool of potential buyers as well.
Last edited by BarryB72; Apr 18, 2020 at 07:45 AM.
Surprised anyone would take odometer readings on face value. Thought everyone knew by now how easily the odometer reading can be tampered with on these old vettes.
Am curious about newer cars with digital gauges, aside from a cluster swap, i don't know if odometer readings can be altered. At the very least it would take some special skill and equipment, not screw and nut drivers.
It is the age not the mileage! Look at the rear spring bushings any item rubber is it cracked (wrinkles) is replacement time.If it is a original car ( Looked at by a NCRS judge) than you will know true condition. Late 70 looked at a LT1 convertible a 1 car from 1 foot , my friend crawled under the car with a awl and came out from under neath with his eyes popping out of his head lets run he said and i did! They wanted $6000 dollars for that car. Today i would only look with or have inspected by a NCRS Judge for the year you are looking at.
Condition - not miles. Mileage, if documented and honest, can help, but condition always #1. A car can have 25000 original miles and been beaten all 25k. I bought mine with 78 on the clock, but didn’t realize the clock wasn’t moving until after purchase - no way to tell how many true miles.
seals is seals. hoses is hoses. pull out an orig car with 1000 miles on it it needs em all. i am talking steering shaft. steering box. ignition switch. pedal bushings. shifter bushings. stress cracks in the frame-cage even if not rusty. stress cracks in all the glass. sand scratches in the windshield. window regulators that need rebuilt. door hinges, latches, handles. high miles is wear on things that people do not count on rehabbing.
Surprised anyone would take odometer readings on face value. Thought everyone knew by now how easily the odometer reading can be tampered with on these old vettes.
Am curious about newer cars with digital gauges, aside from a cluster swap, i don't know if odometer readings can be altered. At the very least it would take some special skill and equipment, not screw and nut drivers.
yes it is harder. but late model stuff has ebay clusters for sale. some mileage is in the body or engine ecu. and the title has a running mileage that can not be overridden.
seals is seals. hoses is hoses. pull out an orig car with 1000 miles on it it needs em all. i am talking steering shaft. steering box. ignition switch. pedal bushings. shifter bushings. stress cracks in the frame-cage even if not rusty. stress cracks in all the glass. sand scratches in the windshield. window regulators that need rebuilt. door hinges, latches, handles. high miles is wear on things that people do not count on rehabbing.
This is so true, my very low mileage 79 required new rubber everything. From tires to hoses, belts, bushings, weatherstrip and on and on. Even the top of the dash beyond the pad was damaged from the heat while in storage. The crazy thing is even with all this you get to pay a premium for low miles. Oh well, love my car anyways.
Do you really consider the miles when looking for a C3?
Good questions 
