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Issues :
Car will not try to start at random times. Everything else will power on and light up as should. Even the steering wheel will move to memory position.
I see that my security indicator light comes on and stays solid when I get into the car. I think it comes on even when it starts up and going down the road, are either of those normal? I have seen in the past that it has flashed on and off while driving as well. I have no idea if the car has the steering lock fix. ( what exactly is that for and do?)
Checks:
New starter and solenoid
Arm alarm, and disarm
Tapping on starter and solenoid
Crossed the ignition and positive on starter, motor turns over, but will not start.
Disconnected negative at the battery for a few minutes.
Checked the clutch pedal switches, they are fine. It did this before I swapped to manual.
Tomorrow will check to see if key is sending signal to starter.
If's:
If it is ignition switch and I get a new one with matching key, does anything med to be programmed?
If I shut down the factory alarm, will my remote start/alarm no loner work as well?
I will add more if I think of anything else to this post. Thanks for the help.
I have no idea if the car has the steering lock fix. ( what exactly is that for and do?)
Manual or automatic?
If your steering wheel locks it hasn't been fixed. Not a big deal if it's an automatic, if it fails it will just be annoying. If it's a manual it's possible (rare) to fail while you're driving. That's undesirable and potentially deadly. http://www.complianceparts.com/lmc5description.html
It is now an manual. I have not seen any of those symptoms, or on the DIC. From what I read, it only keeps the steering wheel from not turning, correct? If so, how could that cause a no start condition? Thanks.
The Security light turns on along with all other indicators when you first turn the key, it should flash a few times and then turn off. If you replace the Ignition switch and new key you have to make sure the resistor of the new key matches the old key. All intermittent cranking troubleshooting should begin at the TDR, it is located above the BCM.
TDR stands for Theft Deterant Relay, it should be called the starter enable relay because it is the relay that sends 12v to the starter solenoid "purple wire ". The TDR relay coil receives 12v which originates at the Ignition switch when you turn the key to the crank position, it makes its way thru the Park/neutral switch or clutch depressed safety switch.The other side of the TDR coil is provided a ground from the BCM if everything with VATS is satisfied. The TDR socket has four wires, a red, purple, and two smaller gauge yellow wires, one yellow wire will have a black strip those are the relay coil wires. The red wire has 12v and the purple wire is the wire that connects to the starter solenoid. You can jumper the red and purple wires at the socket with the key in the run position the car should crank and start. WARNING make absolutely sure the car is in Park or neutral when doing this as this bypasses the requiment for the car to be in Park or the clutch depressed.
Great detail on the information! While you were writing this I checked the relay. I pulled it out, the terminals looked slightly tarnished. I cleaned them and put it back in, it started!! Knowing I can't see the contacts inside, I bought a new one. I put dielectric grease on the pins like I do everything else, for now all is good, security light is no longer on as well. Can't thank you and the members here enough. I hope this posting will help someone else in the future. Have a great day my friend.
For clarity, the security light came back on. I believe it is unrelated to the no start issue. I think it is from having the aftermarket start/alarm system installed.
I don't have much experience with aftermarket systems, I know that on a stock c5 the Security light is controlled by the VATS, this means that the BCM receives the correct current from the resistor in the key, the Ignition switch contains some contacts that press against the keys resistor pellet. Many forum members recommend spraying the very front part of the Ignition switch with electronic contact cleaner and not having any items on the key ring.besides the fob.
So, it has ran flawlessly since I last reported. Today, same old no start. Battery is fine. I did the jump from red to purple, it started as it should. I let it run for about 10 seconds, shut it down. Tried to re-start, no go. I have noticed that the will not start on the first try, it would turn over but not fire. On the second try it would start up fine every time. I looked at the tune in HP Tuners, VATS is turned off, but the alarm works fine, the aftermarket one as well, even the remote start. I am almost tempted to put in a momentary button just in case. But, that is not how I do things. I want to find the source of the issue and fix it. Any ideas? Thanks.
You state that it turns over but doesn't fire on the first try, but starts on the second try, which leads me to belive that there is inadequate fuel pressure at the fuel rails. I would verify fuel pressure at the rails with a gauge, should be around 55psi.
If I let the car sit for a while, the pressure does bleed down. I have a fuel pressure gage at the end of the fuel rail for both motors. I think it has to do with the Lingenfelter fuel pump.
Do you have a multimeter and can you use it? You need to take some voltage readings at the TDR during the failure to crank.
READING YOU SHOULD SEE:
Yellow wire - Battery voltage when Ignition switch is in the crank/start position (clutch depressed)
Yellow/black stripe wire - GROUND! The BCM grounds the Yellow/black stripe wire when ALL security is met. NOTE-1 (You can temporarily ground this wire to take the BCM Security out of the picture)
RED wire - Hot at all times
PURPLE wire - When the relay energizes, the RED wire and the PURPLE wire are connected together and purple should have battery voltage.
IGINION SWITCH When you change out an Ignition Switch, You can easily remove the mechanical lock cylinder from the old switch and insurt it back into the new switch Theres a little metal button on the side of the barrel that you press. The key has to be in the lock and in the ON position. Press the button and slide out the key lock cylinder.
Do you have a multimeter and can you use it? You need to take some voltage readings at the TDR during the failure to crank.
READING YOU SHOULD SEE:
Yellow wire - Battery voltage when Ignition switch is in the crank/start position (clutch depressed)
Yellow/black stripe wire - GROUND! The BCM grounds the Yellow/black stripe wire when ALL security is met. NOTE-1 (You can temporarily ground this wire to take the BCM Security out of the picture)
RED wire - Hot at all times
PURPLE wire - When the relay energizes, the RED wire and the PURPLE wire are connected together and purple should have battery voltage.
IGINION SWITCH When you change out an Ignition Switch, You can easily remove the mechanical lock cylinder from the old switch and insurt it back into the new switch Theres a little metal button on the side of the barrel that you press. The key has to be in the lock and in the ON position. Press the button and slide out the key lock cylinder.
This is very helpful information - I have been having intermittent start issues on my '02 Z06 with around 68k miles. I get 12v using a multimeter across the red and purple wires with the ignition on, and when I jump them the starter turns over and I can start the car. I replaced my lower clutch position sensor then my ignition switch thinking that would help, but the problem persists, especially when the car is warm.
If the starter turns over when I jump the red and purple wires, is it still possible it needs replacing? Or is the problem somewhere else in the circuit? Given the issue is more prevalent at higher temps (this car is mostly used on track), I'm inclined to believe it's a starter/solenoid issue but wanted to confirm before I go ahead and replace that as well. Apologies as I know there are many threads on this - just not sure if the starter is the issue if it does turn over when I jump those wires.
If the starter does not turn over when jumpering the red and violet wires it's the starter. What you are experiencing is a heat soak problem with the starter, problem is more likely to occur if there are headers involved.
This is very helpful information - I have been having intermittent start issues on my '02 Z06 with around 68k miles. I get 12v using a multimeter across the red and purple wires with the ignition on, and when I jump them the starter turns over and I can start the car. I replaced my lower clutch position sensor then my ignition switch thinking that would help, but the problem persists, especially when the car is warm.
If the starter turns over when I jump the red and purple wires, is it still possible it needs replacing? Or is the problem somewhere else in the circuit? Given the issue is more prevalent at higher temps (this car is mostly used on track), I'm inclined to believe it's a starter/solenoid issue but wanted to confirm before I go ahead and replace that as well. Apologies as I know there are many threads on this - just not sure if the starter is the issue if it does turn over when I jump those wires.
IF,, You jump the Purple and RED together and the engine cranks, the starter is NOT the issue. The YELLOW & YELLOW BLACK Stripe wires are what you need to FURTHER examine. Is the BCM grounding the yellow black wire???? Do you or are you getting 12VDC on the YELLOW WIRE when attempting to crank the engine?????? READ the yellow wire to ground when attempting to crank. Should see battery voltage. Temp ground the yellow black wire to take the BCM security out of the picture.
I press the Clutch to the floor and Turn the key to CRANK If it doesnt crank, WHILE HOLDING THE KEY IN CRANK, let up on the clutch just enough to release that clutch safety switch. Use the clutch switch to open and shut that switch and LISTEN for the TDR relay to click each time you open and shut that switch. If you dont hear the relay open and close, you have a problem in the relay control circuit or the relay. If the relay clicks, the issue is on the 12VDC High Current side RED/PURPLE wires or the relay contacts for the red purple wires inside the relay. My 98 Coupe TDR relay was FULL OF WATER/corrosion because of a condensation leak.
Something to check. Soon after I got my car I had a CEL for knock sensors. When replacing them knowing everything else in there was original I also replaced the cam pos sensor, oil pres sensor and throttle pos sensor. After I put it together I suddenly had a random crank-no start condition that did not exist before I tore into it. Completely random, sometimes first start in morning, sometimes after driving awhile. Always starts right up on the second attempt. While searching around for some other info I came across an article concerning the gap of the cam pos sensor and the cam itself, about how some replacement sensors have too large of a gap due to the placement of the mounting tab on the sensor body. Due to being super busy I have not addressed the issue as of yet but it is something to keep in mind. I do have another sensor just have not had the time to replace it. May not have anything to do with your problem but when I read the crank-no start symptom I had to chime in.
When you get the crank/no start, please check your DTCs and see if you have ANY specific DTCs OR any NO COMMS U series DTCs. My 02 ZO6 will do that and I am able to see NO COMMS in many modules. I don't want to jump the gun and tell you that's it a specific problem without checking to see what DTCs are being displayed at the time of that specific problem. With that information, we can better help you resolve any issue.