cleaning aluminum valve covers
#3
Le Mans Master
if you don't want to remove them try carb cleaner or brake cleaner. That will usually clean them up fairly well. Just don't get the brake cleaner on the engine block or it will start to remove the paint.
why not just take them off to clean them? it will make it a LOT easier.
It's nothing but a few bolts and they lift right off. If they haven't been off for a while than before you put them back on go get a new set of cork valve cover gaskets for $12 or so to replace the old ones when you put the covers back on.
why not just take them off to clean them? it will make it a LOT easier.
It's nothing but a few bolts and they lift right off. If they haven't been off for a while than before you put them back on go get a new set of cork valve cover gaskets for $12 or so to replace the old ones when you put the covers back on.
#6
I used brake cleaner and a combination of 000 & 0000 steel wool. Didn't come out like glass beading but are a lot better than they were...there is a good shine to them now if you like that look.
#7
Melting Slicks
On the car, clean them with Simple Green, a Scotchbrite pad, and a toothbrush. Lacquer thinner and brake cleaner will also work, but won't rinse as well.
How nice do you want them? How shiney do you want them?
If you want them real nice, take them off and send them to somebody who does this. They'll need to be blasted by somebody who knows what they're doing. If an inexperienced person blasts them, they'll ruin the factory finish and you'll lose their value. They'll look nice. But not factory. These things were sand cast.
If you make them shiney, you'll also ruin the factory finish. But some people like that. Shiney used to be the fashion. Shine 'em so much that they looked chromed. But the factory even-gray sand cast look is now the fashion. You can get most of that look yourself with the Simple Green. You get all of it be sending it out to experts.
How nice do you want them? How shiney do you want them?
If you want them real nice, take them off and send them to somebody who does this. They'll need to be blasted by somebody who knows what they're doing. If an inexperienced person blasts them, they'll ruin the factory finish and you'll lose their value. They'll look nice. But not factory. These things were sand cast.
If you make them shiney, you'll also ruin the factory finish. But some people like that. Shiney used to be the fashion. Shine 'em so much that they looked chromed. But the factory even-gray sand cast look is now the fashion. You can get most of that look yourself with the Simple Green. You get all of it be sending it out to experts.
#11
If you want them real nice, take them off and send them to somebody who does this. They'll need to be blasted by somebody who knows what they're doing. If an inexperienced person blasts them, they'll ruin the factory finish and you'll lose their value. They'll look nice. But not factory. These things were sand cast.
FYI, These were die cast parts not sand cast.
FYI, These were die cast parts not sand cast.
#13
valve covers
email me at johndegreg@aol.com concerning refinishing your valve covers. Thanks, John DeGregory
#14
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 1999
Location: Moon Township PA
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Originally Posted by John E. DeGregory
Send your Corvette aluminum valve covers to me and I will refinish them to like new condition in about a three week turnaround. Thanks, John DeGregory
Oth, I would never touch the valve covers with anything even remotely abbrasive like Scotch Brite, sand or bead blasting, or steel wool. You will alter the original finish permanently. I have successfully used carb cleaner and let the valve cover soak in a bucket overnight to remove stains. You can start with Simple Green or other cleaners and work your way up. It is difficult to start aggresively and work your way down without screwing up the appearance.
Gary
#15
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by GaryS
I have seen John's work - top notch.
Oth, I would never touch the valve covers with anything even remotely abbrasive like Scotch Brite, sand or bead blasting, or steel wool. You will alter the original finish permanently. I have successfully used carb cleaner and let the valve cover soak in a bucket overnight to remove stains. You can start with Simple Green or other cleaners and work your way up. It is difficult to start aggresively and work your way down without screwing up the appearance.
Gary
Oth, I would never touch the valve covers with anything even remotely abbrasive like Scotch Brite, sand or bead blasting, or steel wool. You will alter the original finish permanently. I have successfully used carb cleaner and let the valve cover soak in a bucket overnight to remove stains. You can start with Simple Green or other cleaners and work your way up. It is difficult to start aggresively and work your way down without screwing up the appearance.
Gary
This is the best advice you're going to get. Please listen to Gary.
#16
CF Senile Member
Originally Posted by bigearl56
Had a set powder coated Wish I had not done that!
I did the same thing with a set (after market) a few years ago. The guy did good work, but They didn't look anything like I had visualized (body color with the fins and "Corvette" unpainted). Hard to beat the original.
#17
I found a new twist on this subject. Hand Cleaner! I used hand cleaner with pumice and some scrub brushes. I used a brush like you use to scrub you finger nails and a old tooth brush. To clean in tight to the script I used the blunt end of a bamboo skewer. It worked great. The mistake I made was using a scotch brite which left visable scratches.
But the hand cleaner works great. I would be interested to see the results with out the scotch brite scratches. If anyone tries it lets us know>
But the hand cleaner works great. I would be interested to see the results with out the scotch brite scratches. If anyone tries it lets us know>
#19
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Ram Air Formula
So the factory finned aluminum valve covers that came on the HiPo 327s were unpainted? What about the aluminum intakes? Unpainted as well? Thanks.