new C4 'teflon coated' hub washers looking scrappy
#1
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new C4 'teflon coated' hub washers looking scrappy
Brand new, but the teflon has deteriorated right off. Should I order another pair...? Is this how they should look? A good portion of the surface is bare metal.
I'd like to ditch those obnoxious sounds in one swoop rather than tearing into it twice.
I'd like to ditch those obnoxious sounds in one swoop rather than tearing into it twice.
#3
Melting Slicks
Looks like the ones I used
#5
Safety Car
#6
Le Mans Master
I would send them back, why install something that's not right......WW
#9
Le Mans Master
Lighting can make a big difference in appearance. I have some that are new and from one angle with the light reflecting on them they look scarred up, but from another angle they look a nice uniform dark gray color.
The teflon is soft enough that it can show a mark from simply dragging a fingernail across it. I don't think doing that damages the use of the washer, but it makes it look quite different.
It is tough to know how bad they need to be to create a problem (on mine it was a "clicking" noise once in a while).
In the picture below it shows brand new ones at the top, used ones that had about 25k miles in the middle, and the bottom was about 135k miles. None of these washers made any noise.
Note that on both pictures they are the same five washers just from different angles. Also note that the bottom washers are actually only one washer but photoshopped to show both sides of it.
The teflon is soft enough that it can show a mark from simply dragging a fingernail across it. I don't think doing that damages the use of the washer, but it makes it look quite different.
It is tough to know how bad they need to be to create a problem (on mine it was a "clicking" noise once in a while).
In the picture below it shows brand new ones at the top, used ones that had about 25k miles in the middle, and the bottom was about 135k miles. None of these washers made any noise.
Note that on both pictures they are the same five washers just from different angles. Also note that the bottom washers are actually only one washer but photoshopped to show both sides of it.
#11
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thanks
Thanks guys!!
Got myself a much nicer pair, which still had plenty of scuffing, but no bare metal.
The job was pretty straight forward although those 6 Torx bolts are my enemies for life.
Now I can drive her with pride! Those popping noises at take off were pretty embarrassing.
Got myself a much nicer pair, which still had plenty of scuffing, but no bare metal.
The job was pretty straight forward although those 6 Torx bolts are my enemies for life.
Now I can drive her with pride! Those popping noises at take off were pretty embarrassing.
#12
Pro
Should these Teflon washers be greased before assembly?
The lip or cup of these washers should face out towards the threaded end of the spindle, Is that correct??
Thanks for your replies.
The lip or cup of these washers should face out towards the threaded end of the spindle, Is that correct??
Thanks for your replies.
#13
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you will love this video, go to the 9 minute mark:
I decided to go with Mobile 1 grease. Many folks say to use anti-seize.
tool list at the link below, BUT DON"T FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS. Just take the brakes off, then remove the bearing assemblies, that's it.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562
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Scott Rasmussen (06-29-2022)
#14
Drifting
Yes you are correct the lip should face out. FSM mentions nothing about greasing washer. Because of that I would think it goes in dry but it's your call if you want to put anything on it. I put a thin layer of synthetic wheel bearing grease on the washer since I re-used the old one.
#15
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Yes you are correct the lip should face out. FSM mentions nothing about greasing washer. Because of that I would think it goes in dry but it's your call if you want to put anything on it. I put a thin layer of synthetic wheel bearing grease on the washer since I re-used the old one.
I'm not sure if there are issues with adding lube, but I know the issue of not adding lube -- and that loud POP is a thrill-kill.
I'm lubed up - spline, washer and all, and torqued to 180 (book says 165, lots of forum posts about 200). I went from POP CRACK SNAP to smooth-as-butter.
But I'm no expert. I haven't really wrenched since my 1970 SS I had in the 90's.
#16
Drifting
The washer is actually nothing more than a spacer. Any movement at the washer means it's torqued wrong, probably from age. But when there is movement... you can either have smooth metal/lube/metal - or dry corrosion metal-to-metal crunch.
I'm not sure if there are issues with adding lube, but I know the issue of not adding lube -- and that loud POP is a thrill-kill.
I'm lubed up - spline, washer and all, and torqued to 180 (book says 165, lots of forum posts about 200). I went from POP CRACK SNAP to smooth-as-butter.
But I'm no expert. I haven't really wrenched since my 1970 SS I had in the 90's.
I'm not sure if there are issues with adding lube, but I know the issue of not adding lube -- and that loud POP is a thrill-kill.
I'm lubed up - spline, washer and all, and torqued to 180 (book says 165, lots of forum posts about 200). I went from POP CRACK SNAP to smooth-as-butter.
But I'm no expert. I haven't really wrenched since my 1970 SS I had in the 90's.
#18
Le Mans Master
#19