Not your typical headlight motor question...
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Not your typical headlight motor question...
This is in regard to a 1996 CE with LT4...
When hooking up the battery...something I have done a lot lately, I hear both headlight motors run for a few seconds, and then they stop. Seems it is mostly the passenger side, but the driver's side a little bit too. They stop running, and then that's that. I had a test light hooked up while diagnosing an alternator short, and the light...kind of somewhat dimly strobes/pulses along with the sound of the headlight motors...just for a few seconds. My '86 has the older style headlight motors, and don't do this. Any idea what's wrong here?
Thanks!
When hooking up the battery...something I have done a lot lately, I hear both headlight motors run for a few seconds, and then they stop. Seems it is mostly the passenger side, but the driver's side a little bit too. They stop running, and then that's that. I had a test light hooked up while diagnosing an alternator short, and the light...kind of somewhat dimly strobes/pulses along with the sound of the headlight motors...just for a few seconds. My '86 has the older style headlight motors, and don't do this. Any idea what's wrong here?
Thanks!
Last edited by racerseks; 04-12-2018 at 04:29 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
Possibly a bad headlight control module, drivers side fender well toward nose of car looks like the following pict. You can test the light motor itself by running 12 volts to the headlight motor and see if the noise happens that way too.
Last edited by bac22; 04-12-2018 at 08:26 AM.
#3
Le Mans Master
If the headlights are are in the down/off position and you hear the motors running, that means the gears or (more likely) the round plastic bushings inside the gears are shot. The motor shouldn't be able to spin if the lights are at either end of their travel. I wonder if it's normal for the headlights to attempt to close (or open, if the switch is turned to "On") when battery power is restored? This would be part of an overall reset process. But normally we don't notice it because the motors stop immediately upon sensing mechanical resistance (due to increased current draw, because they are already fully open or closed). I'm just guessing at that, though.
The question comes down to how the control module knows when to stop powering the headlamp motors when they are at either end of their travel. I know that when the bushings are shot, the motors are no longer solidly connected to the doors, and so the motors keep turning even when the doors are fully open or closed. When the bushings are replaced, the motors stop as soon as the doors reach either end of travel.
The question comes down to how the control module knows when to stop powering the headlamp motors when they are at either end of their travel. I know that when the bushings are shot, the motors are no longer solidly connected to the doors, and so the motors keep turning even when the doors are fully open or closed. When the bushings are replaced, the motors stop as soon as the doors reach either end of travel.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; 04-12-2018 at 09:55 AM.
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racerseks (04-18-2018)
#5
Since the headlamps/controller etc are an always 'powered' device what you're hearing is to be considered normal. Bad bushings? Maybe but I'd think it's just the controller resetting itself during the connection.
**Headlamps require 'no key' for operation.
**Headlamps require 'no key' for operation.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 04-12-2018 at 09:55 AM.
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racerseks (04-18-2018)
#6
Le Mans Master
For me it turned out to be the headlight module. The strange thing is running 12 volts directly allowed the lights to open/close and stop the motor once either fully open or fully close...so I'm not even really sure what the function of the headlight module is.
Last edited by bac22; 04-12-2018 at 02:45 PM.
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racerseks (04-18-2018)
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you! Thanks for mentioning the location...it helps!
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If the headlights are are in the down/off position and you hear the motors running, that means the gears or (more likely) the round plastic bushings inside the gears are shot. The motor shouldn't be able to spin if the lights are at either end of their travel. I wonder if it's normal for the headlights to attempt to close (or open, if the switch is turned to "On") when battery power is restored? This would be part of an overall reset process. But normally we don't notice it because the motors stop immediately upon sensing mechanical resistance (due to increased current draw, because they are already fully open or closed). I'm just guessing at that, though.
The question comes down to how the control module knows when to stop powering the headlamp motors when they are at either end of their travel. I know that when the bushings are shot, the motors are no longer solidly connected to the doors, and so the motors keep turning even when the doors are fully open or closed. When the bushings are replaced, the motors stop as soon as the doors reach either end of travel.
The question comes down to how the control module knows when to stop powering the headlamp motors when they are at either end of their travel. I know that when the bushings are shot, the motors are no longer solidly connected to the doors, and so the motors keep turning even when the doors are fully open or closed. When the bushings are replaced, the motors stop as soon as the doors reach either end of travel.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Makes sense...thanks. Guess I will see if I have any problems now that the battery is connected. Hasn't happened since...
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
That wasn't my case, that's why running 12 volts to the motors will tell if the problem is with the gears or module...the FSM indicates doing this as a troubleshooting step.
For me it turned out to be the headlight module. The strange thing is running 12 volts directly allowed the lights to open/close and stop the motor once either fully open or fully close...so I'm not even really sure what the function of the headlight module is.
For me it turned out to be the headlight module. The strange thing is running 12 volts directly allowed the lights to open/close and stop the motor once either fully open or fully close...so I'm not even really sure what the function of the headlight module is.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks!
#13
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I have one from the 'Vette Kart project if you decide that you need one.
Also w/the gears; you can save time and a few bucks by simply filling the ID of the gear w/epoxy. I did that to my '92 years and years ago...still working beautifully.
Also w/the gears; you can save time and a few bucks by simply filling the ID of the gear w/epoxy. I did that to my '92 years and years ago...still working beautifully.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks...
#15
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
How about $50? That is cheaper than the cheapest one I could find on eBay...and I know mine works.
Here are pics of the only number that I could find on it...
Here are pics of the only number that I could find on it...
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racerseks (04-23-2018)
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
How about $50? That is cheaper than the cheapest one I could find on eBay...and I know mine works.
Here are pics of the only number that I could find on it...
Attachment 48276787
Attachment 48276788
Attachment 48276789
Here are pics of the only number that I could find on it...
Attachment 48276787
Attachment 48276788
Attachment 48276789
#17
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Front left, under the left headlight.
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racerseks (04-24-2018)
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter