fredski

1963 drum brakes. All new drums, wheel cylinders, brake hoses, and master cylinder. Been fighting the problem since last year. Had them apart all four corners 6 or 7 times, everything look good no fluid leaks.I also switched drums side to side. WHAT NEXT..?? Getting desperate need a fix.

Fred. Note manual brake.

pop23235

If you've done all that, next step is either new shoes or switch shoes side to side (just like the drums).

If not fixed then, I'd suspect suspension issues. Ball joints, tie rods, A arm bushings, backing plate hang up, etc.

427390HP

Although I will refer to my experience with my 60, it should apply as we both have drum brakes.

Like you, I went with a complete new brake system: master, lines, wheel cylinders, hoses, shoes, hardware, and drums turned. Once assembled, I had a small but persistent pull to the right. After checking everything several times over, I went out and got my 40 year old shoes out of the parts box (the car had been stored for about the last 35 years). I laid the new shoe next to the old shoe and was amazed to find that the shoes were fastened to the shoe plate (not sure of the exact term) in a different position! So we put my old shoes on just to see what would happen and problem solved. The old shoes (which actually looked like new) actually worked properly and felt better. I am running my old shoes to this day.

So, you might start there by taking your shoes off and comparing them to other new replacements - specifically looking at the actual position of the shoe as it is attached to the plate. BTW, my new shoes were from a CF Supporting Vendor.

Some brake experts may chime in with other things to check, but I thought I would offer this info as I would have never guessed that brand new shoes would be a problem.

Terry

fredski

I also with everything else at the same time did replace the shoes and they are Delco the best quality I could buy.
The front end parts including steering box and rear trailing arms are new .
Alignment was done last June by a corvette specialist

Maybe as last resort I will change shoes side to side.

Is this a front brake problem only. Would rear brakes also do this?

Thanks for advice. Fred

fredski

Terry interesting how you remedied yours problem


I threw my old shoes out which were not really worn out .

Fredski

427390HP

Yes, I was lucky enough to have kept the old shoes to give it a try. Even though the old shoes were different than the new shoes as I stated, I was still a bit surprised, but relieved, when the old ones worked.

You also might do a Google search for "brake drum pulling to one side" and you will find a LOT of information out there. I think most of those replies would help you as a brake pull to the side is applicable to all drum brake cars, not just the Vettes.

One other point. Are you sure you have the shoes on correctly, i.e., the small shoe to the front and the larger shoe to the rear?

Terry

fredski

I'm sure larger shoes are on the back. But being 73 years old I will recheck brake pad position could have mixed up.

Fred

vmaxpwc

Can you even put them on reversed? I thought the holes for the adjusters and springs were different?

vmaxpwc

Frankie the Fink

I replaced EVERYthing on my 63 original drum brakes. I had the same hard pull to the right when stopping hard for a few miles. It was strictly the disparity in how the new brake components mated up and the problem disappeared after break-in. Unless you "arc" the shoes to the drum like they did decades ago you have to allow the break in process to do it while driving. No panic stops and avoid repetitive hard stops for the first few hundred miles.

This ASSUMES everything is installed correctly though. I've seen lots of mistakes right here over the years.

MikeM

Did you install new pull back springs on the shoes?

fredski

No but springs are very tight.

Fred

fredski

What to do on a rainy day?

Going to switch drums and shoes on front to see if it pulls to the left.
What a think?

fredski

I have seen many pictures of your car, amazingly perfect.I thought you would had upgraded to disc brakes. When drum brakes are set up perfectly they do very well.
You have help me previously , do appreciate your help.

Fred

MikeM

If the brake shoe pull back springs are unequal tension, they can cause pulling.

Check the backing plate nubs for a groove worn that can catch the edge of the shoe and delay actuation.

Pull a drum half off and while a helper pushes the brake pedal, observe the action of the brake shoes for smooth, equal operation.

If the brakes pull to one side on initial application and then pull evenly after application, I'd suspect one of the above. If the brakes pull to one side all the way to a stop, I'd probably disregard the above.

How did the brakes work before the refurb?

Frankie the Fink

The car was in the judging process - so, no disc brakes; my '61 has discs on the front though....

In addition to Mike's test it is important to apply a finger tip of lube on the 6 "slide points" on each backing plate...where the shoes move...

65tripleblack

Assuming your primary shoe is correctly installed toward the back half of the drum, and no grease or oil got on the new shoes, then also make sure that the spring on bottom, holding both shoes together is not touching and restricting the star wheel from turning. The only thing that should be touching the star wheel should be the adjuster lever.

Very possible there is a front end wear issue. Did you install the front bearings with (about) 1/2 castellation preload? Hard to explain: turn bearing nut with pump pliers until tight, then rotate drum and back off nut until wheel turns freely and insert cotter pin.

I never had to replace brake hardware in many years of servicing drum brakes. Except in rare cases when they were RUBAR.

GTOguy

My next step would be to verify the wheel alignment and front and rear suspension. A loose idler arm, ball joint, shifting A-arm bushings, etc. can cause a car to pull violently as the load shifts under braking. If all the drums are the same inside diameter, all the shoes are the same friction material, all the hoses and hardware are new and correct, tires and wheel alignment/suspension are the next thing to check.

fredski

My 63 manual states star adjuster towards secondary shoe .On one side it is but the other wheel side it is not, lhaveit apart now scratching my head.

Fred

65tripleblack

Install it exactly like you see it in post #9. Note the spring on bottom that I am talking about: install exactly as shown, as well. Be sure coil end is AWAY from star wheel. Make sure your bearings are preloaded properly and not loose. A clearer explanation than I gave above:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...a1139/4205243/

Here's the important part:

"Reinstall the brake disc (or drum) on the spindle, insert the small outer bearing, and place the washer and thread on the nut. Run the nut home by hand, then tighten it a little more with a wrench while spinning the brake with the other hand. This seats the bearing further and sets its preload. Keep spinning while tightening. You'll feel the bearing start to bind slightly as you tighten more. Stop there. Now back off the nut with the wrench until you feel that resist*ance dissipate, and one of the castellations on the nut lines up with the cotter pin hole. Use a new cotter pin. Don't overtighten the spindle nut. Better to keep it on the looser side than make it too tight if the cotter pin holes don't line up just right"