sb66

hey everyone

While enjoying an evening drive it was getting close to lights on time - for the first time since repairing these last fall - the drivers side did not want to open all the way - I turned them off but noticed a terrible clunking noise from the front - I turned the lights back on and it stopped - but I still only had a partial light on one side

I turned them off and on again and they were both up and fine

when I got home I turned them off and the drivers side kept trying to close (it was already closed)

is there some kind of stop inside these that prevents the non stop "trying to close" I do not want to ruin the new-er gears and certainly did not want to have to change the gears again already

is there anything else that could be causing this or that I should look for?

It's a 1985 - plastic gears and no bushings

finally getting some drive time in - hoping to keep it going

any help would be greatly appreciated

Sean

sb66

could it be the HEADLIGHT ACTUATOR ISOLATION RELAY? (just found that)

Cliff Harris

That's the prime symptom of a stripped gear, which needs to be replaced.

This guy:

Hot Rod Roy

Cliff, you may be right about replacing this gear, but your picture shows there's something wrong with the mesh between the worm gear and this pinion gear. The wear pattern on the pinion gear should show almost a complete mesh between these two gears, but your picture shows there's only about 20% gear mesh! I would guess this may be caused by worn bushings on the motor shaft, that should support the worm gear better.

It's important to have the proper lubricant on the motor shaft bearings to prevent this problem. Use a light weight white grease, like Lubriplate or CRC Sta-Lube.

sb66

thanks - when I had the gear issue last time it would just make a whirring sound like the motor worked but was spinning without moving anything - this time the headlights move - they just do not sound like they want to stop

having just replaced that in the fall - and not much evening driving since - could it have really gone bad that fast?

thanks

Sean

bac22

Use the manual headlight **** to open/close and see if it feels smooth and doesn't slip. If not something with gears or bushings.

Also, you can test each light motor by unplugging the Headlight Actuator Module (drivers side, front fender well) and then running 12v to each motor...should open and close fully. If they do, then culprit could be the Headlight Actuator Module.

sb66

looks like at first - gears - I wonder if they got damaged when the motor kept banging them to try to close them? when I turn the manual ****, it starts to work well then there is a gap where nothing happens - I will have to crack it open and see what's going on - I will still try the test mentioned for the actuator - should be able to use a jumper wire right?


one more question - if it is the gears - brass or plastic? I used plastic last time and was working great - but if I need a second set already - that puts me in the brass zone - any thoughts?

thanks

Hot Rod Roy

'85 does not have an actuator module.

sb66

thanks

so - since the lights open and turn on - the drivers side does not know when to stop trying to close - is there a relay that is not telling the motor when to stop? or could that be something else?

Sean

sb66

I forgot to mention - I do not know if this is "normal" when testing the movement by hand, the buckets move to about 1/3-1/2 way - then there is slack or a gap before it re-engages again? both sides do that consitently

Hot Rod Roy

sb66

parts ordered - took a chance and ordered the individual actuator and 2 sets of gears

do you know what the black goop/tar on headlight relays is - it is some nasty stuff and all 3 relays have it on there - it seems to clean off ok with some contact cleaner - but I don't want to clean all of it off if it is in fact supposed to be there - - ?

thanks

Sean

Hot Rod Roy

I don't know what the "individual actuator" is, but the "black goop" is di-electric grease to keep moisture out of the connectors.

Cliff Harris

I have maintained for years that there is a problem with the way the gears mesh on my driver's side headlight. The gears have stripped out twice, while the passenger side has been perfect for 31 years. I tried, but couldn't figure out how to adjust the gear mesh.

I have my own custom grease, made with a mixture of high speed wheel bearing grease and molybdenum disulfide.

sb66

I was hoping that the black stuff was just old di-electric grease - I will clean and put some fresh in there

thanks

sb66

When I first bought the car the drivers side was the first out of whack - I replaced both sides last time - most likely I am going to try to just replace the driver's side this time (I am getting parts for both just in case) I think I used white lithium grease the last time. I thought they were working fine although I did notice after a while they started to get out of time with each other.

how is the wheel bearing and molybdenum disulfide working?

what is molybdenum disulfide?

thanks

Sean

Cliff Harris

It works great. I have using this combination for many years.

It's a black powder that is has very low friction. Sort of like graphite, but better.

sb66

is it something you need to buy somewhere special? - I saw a few crc and locktite that have a spray with that in it - I wonder if that is comparable ? like a moly lube?

thanks

sb66

Is there something that could be stopping the manual adjuster - which is now in turn stopping the headlight from opening all the way? everything seemed to go together just fine - found the smaller gear was missing 3 teeth - that must have been the original problem? but now this - I thought I got everything cleaned out pretty well - maybe a piece I did not see in another part of the gears?

any body have thoughts?

thanks

Sean