Corvette_Ed

Let me start by saying this is not a thread to debate whether NA or FI is better, or their benefits/negatives. What this thread IS about is whether or not I can reach my HP goal via NA methods, or if I'm going to have to go FI to achieve it and still maintain reliable drive-ability.

My HP goal is targeted around 550 RWHP, and had planned on heads, cam, headers, etc. to achieve this, but the more I research the less confidence I have that I can reach this number and still have a car I can take on cross-country trips. The reason I am wanting to stay NA with this car is that it is also my show car, and I have a plan for its end design that I'd really hate to redo as I'm nearly done with it at this point. I'll go FI if that's the only way I can reach my target HP, but if I can achieve it without going this route, I'd prefer to stick with my current plan.

Opinions?

TIA

Frankie15

I don't think you're going to get 550 RWHP out of an LS3 NA. Those numbers will definitely be easy to attain with FI though.

I have a H/C/I/E Z06 with 565 RWHP (stage 2 cam). I don't see an LS3 getting those numbers with the same mods with even a stage 4 cam.

Vet With A Vette

You are talking a pretty extreme NA build if you are staying LS3. FI will get that with ease and your car will still be streetable.

I think a nice polished roots blower would look show worthy in your car for sure.

Corvette_Ed

I've seen a 760 RWHP GTO that is NA, so it's possible. My concern is the street-ability.

Frankie15

Wow! That is really impressive. I would imagine street-ability wouldn't be the best because I am sure you would need a pretty big cam.

I think FI would be the best for you. It would drive like stock until you got on it. Plus you would likely exceed 550 RWHP.

Amelio

its possible to make that kinda power NA b ut you are gonna be pulling the engine for some serious upgrades....stroking it would be step one, gonna need more cubes and more CR! The amount of money you would spend would be substantial plus the amount of work vs just bolting on a super charge.....a stock LS3 with a pro charger will make that with ease.

0JUICED1

You can build a nasty N/A motor and 550 is achievable but like mentioned above you will loose a lot of the drivability. Especially if you are an A6 car. Keep in mind 550 at the wheels on an auto is considerably harder to achieve then on a manual car. If this is something you want to drive cross country a Magnacharger is something you can live with everyday. You really don't notice it's there until you get aggressive with the pedal. Let us know what you decide on and we can help you out.

BlindSpot

No on the NA; yes on the FI.

On a stock ls3 you're about 375 - 380 RWHP now. To go to 550 you're talking 175 hp. To get that kind of HP in an NA you're going to need a big cam along with lots of other stuff. The bigger the cam the less "streetable" it is. Also, a lot more invasive surgery needed for the NA

On the other hand, a basic FI kit such as AA V3 Ti Trim will put you at about 200 extra hp with no other mods, maybe headers. With that kit, you'll drive around all day, every day on the street just like a stock car. All of the "hurry" happens at your command, above 4K rpm. And, nice to dial more (or less) HP in with the simple change of a pulley.

Having done an AA kit on a stock LS3, I would not waste time trying to high HP an NA ls3, except for the cool idle.

Corvette_Ed

This is what I was afraid of. As I mentioned in my OP, the more research I did the more I was seeing that my original plan was not going to be realistic if I wanted to drive the car somewhere other than the track. I'm going to have to rethink quite a few things now, and will probably have to revise my timetable for my HP mods.

RC4G

You didn't say whether you are planning your own installation or not. If you want easier installation and more torque down low then consider going PD (E-Force or Heartbeat) instead of centrifugal .

You also didn't mention budget constraints. Going PD is a little more expensive up front though over either A&A or ECS centrifigal setups but you can easily do 550 to the rear wheels with the canned tune supplied by the manufacturer so you save having to have a custom tune performed. Obviously a custom tune will give you the best performance for your car

DOUG @ ECS

ECS kit, drives like stock until you lay into it. No problem going cross country. I could be biased though.

Corvette_Ed

I won't be doing the install. Most likely Joe at CPR in Arizona would be doing that for me once I get moved out there. I'd probably stick with either the A&A or ECS setups depending on Joe's recommendation, and have the car dyno tuned since it will already be at the shop.

FAUEE

Add nitrous. Problem solved.

Corvette_Ed

That's not an option for this car. I barely have enough room in the trunk as it is.

RC4G

For your HP target you can't go wrong with either A&A/ECS or a PD solution. The decision is really going to boil down to how/where you plan to tap into the HP/torque. PD delivers the torque much lower in the rev range where centrifugal delivers a higher more drastic curve later in the range.

Now of you think you may suffer from HP addiction and want to scale up well passed 550 then the A&A/ECS option allows for more scalability out of the box.

Cordes Performance Racing

thank you for wanting to work with us sir! when you're ready to talk about the project feel free to contact me and I can go over options and pricing. We carry all the major brands

BlindSpot

Ed - I am hearing more and more you'll be in good hands with CPR. Lots of Vette owners I connect with talk highly of him. Have no personal experience, but no question, CPR is a common name around PHX.

LowRyter

Fuel Injected engines are Normally Aspirated unless a compressor is added.

I don't understand the question.

BlindSpot

Just a matter of abbreviated nomenclature:

FI = Forced Induction
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
NA = Naturally Aspirated

LowRyter