BlankSlate - a Humble Student that thirsts for Vette knowledge
#1
BlankSlate - a Humble Student that thirsts for Vette knowledge
Hey everybody!
Just purchased my first Corvette this past week, the yellow 1969 pictured here. Not only is it my first Corvette, but it's also my first new car (I've been driving the GMC Sierra I got at 16 my entire adult life).
I'm already in love with how it drives. The car is a little banged up, thus how I afforded it, but overall in good shape. I plan to make it my daily driver (I live in Southern California).
I want to start off with a pretty blunt admission. I know next to nothing about the inner machinations of cars. As my username implies, I'm a blank slate. I have been digging into the Chilton's guides, scouring the internet, and trying my best to learn. But I can only get so far on my own. I really want to be able to take care of this car and learn everything there is to know about it. So that's why I'm here. I want to learn from anybody who is willing to help. And please feel free to dumb anything down and condescend as much as you like, because as I said, I truly am a newbie.
So here's a question to start with. I just got the car a few days ago, and have already taken it to the mechanic to fix some of the more pressing problems, such as the need for a new neutral safety switch so it can start up reliably. My question is, what advice do you have on taking a slightly beat up Vette that's been in storage a long time, and getting it into daily-driver shape? What problems should I keep an eye out for? What parts do I need to replace ASAP? What can I do on my own?
What do I need to do to assure that this car can be transformed into a reliable daily driver?
Thanks so much. Looking forward to learning from you guys!
Just purchased my first Corvette this past week, the yellow 1969 pictured here. Not only is it my first Corvette, but it's also my first new car (I've been driving the GMC Sierra I got at 16 my entire adult life).
I'm already in love with how it drives. The car is a little banged up, thus how I afforded it, but overall in good shape. I plan to make it my daily driver (I live in Southern California).
I want to start off with a pretty blunt admission. I know next to nothing about the inner machinations of cars. As my username implies, I'm a blank slate. I have been digging into the Chilton's guides, scouring the internet, and trying my best to learn. But I can only get so far on my own. I really want to be able to take care of this car and learn everything there is to know about it. So that's why I'm here. I want to learn from anybody who is willing to help. And please feel free to dumb anything down and condescend as much as you like, because as I said, I truly am a newbie.
So here's a question to start with. I just got the car a few days ago, and have already taken it to the mechanic to fix some of the more pressing problems, such as the need for a new neutral safety switch so it can start up reliably. My question is, what advice do you have on taking a slightly beat up Vette that's been in storage a long time, and getting it into daily-driver shape? What problems should I keep an eye out for? What parts do I need to replace ASAP? What can I do on my own?
What do I need to do to assure that this car can be transformed into a reliable daily driver?
Thanks so much. Looking forward to learning from you guys!
#2
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 343,014
Received 19,305 Likes
on
13,977 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Welcome to the forum, but I think your thread really would be better placed in the C3 General section of the forum. I'm moving it over there and hope you get some of the answers you are looking for.
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Saskatoon Saskatchewan
Posts: 6,397
Received 640 Likes
on
463 Posts
My advice is once you fix the obvious things take the car on short trips around town many times to see if any other problems show up and so that if you break down you don't have a long ways to go get the car retrieve the car. Gradually take the car on longer trips to make sure its going to be reliable.
#5
Vette
Probably would not be a bad idea to have the mechanic go over things like brakes, lights, fuel leaks, and just an overall daily driver inspection. All clear then short trips around town to make sure you don't overheat, a few 405 runs but just get used to the handling etc. Good luck and oh yea have fun with the T Tops and rear window out.
RVZIO
RVZIO
#6
Thanks a ton guys!
The short trips sounds like a perfect plan. I live only 3-4 miles from work, and never have to get on the freeway. I'll strictly stick to that until I can get it to be more reliable.
I will post pictures of the engine and undercarriage as soon as I get the chance to see if any trained eyes here can spot any obvious problems or abnormalities about the car. What I do know is the previous owner tinkered with it before I got it - the mechanic who performed the PPI told me as much (I think the alternator was moved to a weird place). Another reason I will post pictures is just to figure out exactly which parts are which. I've familiarized myself with a good bit of what all the parts are and how they work, but there are still some parts I'm unsure about. Thanks again for the responses.
The short trips sounds like a perfect plan. I live only 3-4 miles from work, and never have to get on the freeway. I'll strictly stick to that until I can get it to be more reliable.
I will post pictures of the engine and undercarriage as soon as I get the chance to see if any trained eyes here can spot any obvious problems or abnormalities about the car. What I do know is the previous owner tinkered with it before I got it - the mechanic who performed the PPI told me as much (I think the alternator was moved to a weird place). Another reason I will post pictures is just to figure out exactly which parts are which. I've familiarized myself with a good bit of what all the parts are and how they work, but there are still some parts I'm unsure about. Thanks again for the responses.
#9
Welcome!
My only suggestion is to have a backup car to daily as needed. Things WILL break on 49 year old car. While many parts can still be readily found at the local autoparts store, many are not and need to be mail ordered. Also, your lack of experience will take 3x as long to fix as someone with experience.
Focus on getting it reliable first before the temptation to improve performance.
Enjoy and learn as much as you can. Everything you could possible do to a C3 is documented on the internet: this forum, Google other sites, youtube.
And have fun, no matter how frustrating it can get at times!!
My only suggestion is to have a backup car to daily as needed. Things WILL break on 49 year old car. While many parts can still be readily found at the local autoparts store, many are not and need to be mail ordered. Also, your lack of experience will take 3x as long to fix as someone with experience.
Focus on getting it reliable first before the temptation to improve performance.
- Anything rubber should be suspect: Fuel lines, brake lines, brake caliper seals, suspension bushings, etc.
- Wiring should be suspect: brittle insulation and chaffing causes fires.
- Anything that needs lubrication should be suspect: U-joints (all 6 of them), trans, differential, steering, speedo/tach cable, etc.
Enjoy and learn as much as you can. Everything you could possible do to a C3 is documented on the internet: this forum, Google other sites, youtube.
And have fun, no matter how frustrating it can get at times!!
Last edited by Dynra Rockets; 02-22-2018 at 08:09 AM.
The following users liked this post:
ZRXGreen (03-21-2018)
#10
Drifting
Welcome to the forum and Vette ownership. These cars are mechanically very basic compared to today's computer nightmares. Get a correct Chevrolet chassis service manual not one of those parts store books. With a little searching on this forum you can find answers to a lot of your questions. Until you get to know the car better, have a Corvette mechanic check and bleed the brakes.
Now, pick up a wrench, you're burnin' daylight.
Now, pick up a wrench, you're burnin' daylight.
#11
Team Owner
You stated it had been in storage a long time so I would replace anything rubber that has liquid running through it.
The following users liked this post:
PainfullySlow (02-23-2018)
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi BS,
Welcome!!!
And a new old 69 for you! NICE!
It looks like a nice one. It sure will stand out in a crowded parking lot!
"I want to start off with a pretty blunt admission. I know next to nothing about the inner machinations of cars. As my username implies, I'm a blank slate"
Everyone starts off knowing nothing!
The information in the Chilton guide is too general to be of much use as you get involved with a car.
If I may I'd like to suggest you buy a copy of the GM 1969 Chassis Service Manual and a copy of the 1969 Assembly Instruction Manual.
The CSM is the manual that was used by the service techs at the dealerships and the AIM was used at the plant in St.Louis where the cars were assembled.
I think you'll find them both interesting and useful as you get to know your car.
Having a 49 year old car that will be ready to go EVERY day as dependable transportation is going to take a good car and some effort on your part.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
How about some more photos!
An example of a CSM.
An example of an AIM.
Welcome!!!
And a new old 69 for you! NICE!
It looks like a nice one. It sure will stand out in a crowded parking lot!
"I want to start off with a pretty blunt admission. I know next to nothing about the inner machinations of cars. As my username implies, I'm a blank slate"
Everyone starts off knowing nothing!
The information in the Chilton guide is too general to be of much use as you get involved with a car.
If I may I'd like to suggest you buy a copy of the GM 1969 Chassis Service Manual and a copy of the 1969 Assembly Instruction Manual.
The CSM is the manual that was used by the service techs at the dealerships and the AIM was used at the plant in St.Louis where the cars were assembled.
I think you'll find them both interesting and useful as you get to know your car.
Having a 49 year old car that will be ready to go EVERY day as dependable transportation is going to take a good car and some effort on your part.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan
How about some more photos!
An example of a CSM.
An example of an AIM.
Last edited by Alan 71; 02-22-2018 at 02:04 PM.
#13
Melting Slicks
Great start KID. This is what I've learned after fifty years of working on cars and 40 years of working on MY '69.
" Buy the books before you buy the car".....okay, you bought the car, now GO NUTS getting every supporting document you can...DON'T CHEAP OUT....these books and documents and procedures will save you THOUSANDS over the long run.
Take book A. stick it in the bathroom....doing #2...read Chapter 1....rinse an repeat....you may not understand it all, but then again...the light bulb will go on in your head when something happens. This will take a lot of ANGST out of owning a vintage car.
Given the choice (believe me, I'm a GREAT mechanic) of working on the C-3's or my late model Audi TT....the C-3 is a piece of cake!
Great choice kid! Terrific!
Unkahal
" Buy the books before you buy the car".....okay, you bought the car, now GO NUTS getting every supporting document you can...DON'T CHEAP OUT....these books and documents and procedures will save you THOUSANDS over the long run.
Take book A. stick it in the bathroom....doing #2...read Chapter 1....rinse an repeat....you may not understand it all, but then again...the light bulb will go on in your head when something happens. This will take a lot of ANGST out of owning a vintage car.
Given the choice (believe me, I'm a GREAT mechanic) of working on the C-3's or my late model Audi TT....the C-3 is a piece of cake!
Great choice kid! Terrific!
Unkahal
#14
Melting Slicks
Additionally...I've just been bring back to life an 82 Collector edition...'twas stored for 26 years...exhibiting what I call 'rumplestiltzkin disease'.
Change EVERY fluid. 10w 40 or 15 w 50 oil
Change all rubber, hoses, belts, as many bushings as you can manage.
Pop out the driveshaft and axles and grease all the u-joints.
A 'failing' of these cars is the rear trailing arm wheel bearings....they are not greaseable.
Pay someone to grease them. Hell-and-gone expensive to fix and replace when they fail, besides ruining your day.
Rebuild the Delco-Moraine Calipers....they're leaking as I write this! (check the INSIDE of your tires for tell tale signs)
When bleeding brakes yourself, DO NOT stroke the brake pedal more than 3/4's of the way....this will kill the master cylinder. {pushes piston in the M/C into the 'gutch' that they've never seen before...killing the piston cups.}
Set the ride height. (rr)
Pack the front wheel bearings and check for run-out.
Grease all linkages.
New tires! (Comp T/A)
Pressure wash carefully FROM THE REAR the radiator and or Condensor core...be amazed at the garbage that comes out.
Verify operation of fan clutch and or Replace with a heavy duty unit.
Replace the thermostat and gasket, and pressure cap 15 psi.
Flush ISIDE of Radiator/block/heater core.
Use new 100,000 mile orange anti freeze.
Start replacing vacuum lines (vendors have a pretty cheap 'kit' with ALL the lines in one kit)...worth the money. (like $60)
Change the T-3 headlights to something that the 'lord of darkness' didn't install. Save the T-3's!!!!
okay...so when you get all that done....write again....you'll be 40! LOL.
Unkahal
Change EVERY fluid. 10w 40 or 15 w 50 oil
Change all rubber, hoses, belts, as many bushings as you can manage.
Pop out the driveshaft and axles and grease all the u-joints.
A 'failing' of these cars is the rear trailing arm wheel bearings....they are not greaseable.
Pay someone to grease them. Hell-and-gone expensive to fix and replace when they fail, besides ruining your day.
Rebuild the Delco-Moraine Calipers....they're leaking as I write this! (check the INSIDE of your tires for tell tale signs)
When bleeding brakes yourself, DO NOT stroke the brake pedal more than 3/4's of the way....this will kill the master cylinder. {pushes piston in the M/C into the 'gutch' that they've never seen before...killing the piston cups.}
Set the ride height. (rr)
Pack the front wheel bearings and check for run-out.
Grease all linkages.
New tires! (Comp T/A)
Pressure wash carefully FROM THE REAR the radiator and or Condensor core...be amazed at the garbage that comes out.
Verify operation of fan clutch and or Replace with a heavy duty unit.
Replace the thermostat and gasket, and pressure cap 15 psi.
Flush ISIDE of Radiator/block/heater core.
Use new 100,000 mile orange anti freeze.
Start replacing vacuum lines (vendors have a pretty cheap 'kit' with ALL the lines in one kit)...worth the money. (like $60)
Change the T-3 headlights to something that the 'lord of darkness' didn't install. Save the T-3's!!!!
okay...so when you get all that done....write again....you'll be 40! LOL.
Unkahal
The following users liked this post:
ZRXGreen (03-21-2018)
#15
Melting Slicks
#16
Melting Slicks
pee ess...I bought my 69 350/350 (L-46) when I was 21....never give up the VETTE EVER, NEVER!
To Alan; I say 'late model' 11/99 Mk1 TT because there was a AUDI/NSU 'Prinz TT' which was the 'first TT'
Daily driver.
Blank-slate, true congratulations fantastic choice! (biased!).
To Alan; I say 'late model' 11/99 Mk1 TT because there was a AUDI/NSU 'Prinz TT' which was the 'first TT'
Daily driver.
Blank-slate, true congratulations fantastic choice! (biased!).
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,248 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
#18
Drifting
Welcome
All great tips above. When setup it will bring you smiles per mile! I would also consider, after making it a reliable DD, you invest in a Sercurity System to protect your new investment! Some kind of kill switch, alarm, etc. so it is protected. A yellow Corvette is eye catching.
All great tips above. When setup it will bring you smiles per mile! I would also consider, after making it a reliable DD, you invest in a Sercurity System to protect your new investment! Some kind of kill switch, alarm, etc. so it is protected. A yellow Corvette is eye catching.
#19
Race Director
A necessity right now. Go to the car's trim plate and decoded and find out the day it was built. You don't want to miss your car's 50th birthday! Now, first make sure it stops and will continue to. Second is the steering and suspension. Third is make sure it runs and will continue to. But the condition and longevity of the brakes is the first thing you have to worry about.
Last edited by derekderek; 02-23-2018 at 08:53 AM.
#20
Burning Brakes
Replace all fluids and appropriate filters: Engine oil, brake flush, coolant, transmission (if AT), rear differential.
Check safety items for proper function: Brakes, lights, tires (date code. LOTS of C3s sitting with lots of tread and dangerously dry-rotted tires), windshield wipers, steering.
Check the frame, radiator support, and 'birdcage' for rust/rot. You already own the car so this is probably a bit late but if there is rust here it MUST be taken care of.
Check rubber hoses for leaks/dry rot and replace as needed: brake lines, fuel lines, heater/coolant lines.
After that, go nuts. A vintage car will give you lots of opportunities to play around. The good news is that these cars are so simple that most things can be done by the do it yourself mechanic provided that they are willing to get their hands dirty and learn something new.
A bit of advice: something like this can seem overwhelming. I would suggest taking issues one step at a time as they arise. Keep plugging away and before you know it you will have a reliable and fun daily driver.
Welcome to the forum and best of luck with your 69
Check safety items for proper function: Brakes, lights, tires (date code. LOTS of C3s sitting with lots of tread and dangerously dry-rotted tires), windshield wipers, steering.
Check the frame, radiator support, and 'birdcage' for rust/rot. You already own the car so this is probably a bit late but if there is rust here it MUST be taken care of.
Check rubber hoses for leaks/dry rot and replace as needed: brake lines, fuel lines, heater/coolant lines.
After that, go nuts. A vintage car will give you lots of opportunities to play around. The good news is that these cars are so simple that most things can be done by the do it yourself mechanic provided that they are willing to get their hands dirty and learn something new.
A bit of advice: something like this can seem overwhelming. I would suggest taking issues one step at a time as they arise. Keep plugging away and before you know it you will have a reliable and fun daily driver.
Welcome to the forum and best of luck with your 69
Last edited by PainfullySlow; 02-23-2018 at 02:29 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ZRXGreen (03-21-2018)