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I'm going to replace the front cross brace motor mount. Here is the sequence I was going to use. If anyone sees a problem, please advise before I screw it up.
1) Support engine
2) Drain cooling system
3) Remove Fan & belt
4) remove generator support
5) remove water pump
6) remove engine cross bracket
I agree totally, especially if you have any HP mods. I got a built 355 in mine and I had to do this. Anytime I ran it hard the wp would start leaking, after I braced it no problems since. If you can't do it , find someone who can or send it me. I have a bare block setting here.
No, the new one does not have the extra supports welded on. I've read many posts concerning this very thing on the forum. My current mount does not have those and I have no leakage problems. The only reason I swapping it out is someone at some time modified the mount to accommodate the incorrect water pump to make it look somewhat like a 61' or the one shown in your picture only worse.
I don't think I have to worry about too much torque. Mine is the basic 230HP. You clock it through the quarter mile with a calendar.
Last edited by Captain Bud; 02-22-2018 at 09:11 PM.
I did this.
This is not the engine in the 56. I used an engine I have on a stand for fitting and testing for clearance. The upper bolts are counter sunk flat head with an Allen head recess along with counter sunk star lock washers. Thus, the bolt heads are flush with the back side of the cross over mount.
I replace mine in my 60 230hp and I didn't remove any of that. I supported the engine, took out the bolts, pulled the supports, put in the new supports and ran the new bolts through and rebolted. I will admit that the passenger side was a challenge around the radiator hose to get a wrench on, but I persevered.
O-k, get a pair of 3/8 "studs to ease alignment for reassembly. Makes the job much easier.
Pop is correct it makes the job much easier using studs. I might that cut a slot in the end of the studs to make it easy to remove them with a screw driver.
Pop is correct it makes the job much easier using studs. I might that cut a slot in the end of the studs to make it easy to remove them with a screw driver.
Rick
If you happen to have any exhaust manifold studs laying around, those work fine, and they have a small diameter hex head (smaller than the stud diameter) so no need for a slot.
02-22-2018, 08:29 PM
Front motor mount 1960
