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Had a lightshow under the dash.

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Old 04-19-2018, 04:58 PM
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Twan Sloot
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Default Had a lightshow under the dash.

Had a nice day with the 66, had dinner and walked to the car fired it up and tried to pop up the headlights. And they did fine. But the switch stayed in the up position. Tried to push it back and the button pushed into the housing of the headlight switch and sparks fell down on my legs. It wasn't too big luckily. I opened the hood quickly and pulled the connectors from the motors to save my just rebuild motors from chewing up. After that I drove home (a 5 minute drive) and quickly removed the headlight switch. The inner work of the headlight switch was all porous, turned into bits of plastic.

Guess I just have to order a new one. Are the repro's any good, have heard some complaints about them.



Last edited by Twan Sloot; 04-19-2018 at 06:01 PM.
Old 04-19-2018, 05:12 PM
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elwood13
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Glad it didn't start a fire. I do not know anything about the repros but had a similar incident last week. When I connected the battery pack to the car I moved the switch to retract the light and heard a sizzling noise so I pulled the battery pack. When I took the switch apart, the plastic piece that held the contacts was cracked and one contact was closed shut. When I moved the switch I basically closed both contacts at the same time.
Old 04-19-2018, 06:00 PM
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Twan Sloot
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Yeah, pretty happy I didn't have to grab the fire extinguisher. I was kinda amazed that there was no fuse to stop the headlight switch from shooting fireworks

Last edited by Twan Sloot; 04-19-2018 at 06:14 PM.
Old 04-19-2018, 06:10 PM
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colo63sw
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I got to stop reading this stuff, it may start keeping me up at night! ANYTHING can go wrong with very bad results. I do have a FE in the car just in case.

Glad you were lucky in your case.
Old 04-19-2018, 06:12 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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I didn't like the looks of the repro headlight switch's outer housing....the lettering and a few other things were slightly off.
So I put the repro guts into the original housing and its been fine for a couple of years now...
Old 04-19-2018, 06:13 PM
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Twan Sloot
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I didn't like the looks of the repro headlight switch's outer housing....the lettering and a few other things were slightly off.
So I put the repro guts into the original housing and its been fine for a couple of years now...
Thanks, guess I will go with that solution as well. my metal housing is fine

Last edited by Twan Sloot; 04-19-2018 at 07:05 PM.
Old 04-19-2018, 06:27 PM
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Kerrmudgeon
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Just too strong for your own good Twan!
Old 04-19-2018, 07:07 PM
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elwood13
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Here is where mine was broken.



Old 04-19-2018, 07:09 PM
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I knew the switch felt weird but I guess the crack wedged the plastic down.
Old 04-19-2018, 07:21 PM
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Twan Sloot
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Originally Posted by Kerrmudgeon
Just too strong for your own good Twan!
Might have to be more gentle with 50 year old mechanics, but after giving me such a hard time on the windshield he had this one comming



Originally Posted by elwood13
I knew the switch felt weird but I guess the crack wedged the plastic down.
Yep, my switch also felt weird throughout the day when I used it.

Ordered a new one already hope it comes in soon. I don't want to roll my headlights down using that little gear on the side of the motor

Last edited by Twan Sloot; 04-19-2018 at 08:13 PM.
Old 04-19-2018, 09:47 PM
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65GGvert
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There's a 30 amp circuit breaker, auto resets, on the driver side kick panel that protects that switch. It feeds the red wire to the center contact for the headlight rollover switch.

You may be surprised there's no fuse to the cigarette lighter either. 12 volts hot all the time unfused

Last edited by 65GGvert; 04-19-2018 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 04-20-2018, 09:12 AM
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Tampa Jerry
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Default Battery cut off switch

Consider adding a battery cut off switch. Any sign of an electrical issue could be stopped immediately with a switch. Jerry

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