Targa Top Removal and Install
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Targa Top Removal and Install
Hey guys...simple video to show you how I remove and install a removable top on a C4 Corvette. The purpose of this video is very simple...every summer I see a thread where a guy (who just bought his first C4...) is asking how to remove the top. Sometimes they figured out the bolts but the top is still "stuck" and not lifting up (weatherstrip stuck together) so i thought I would upload this simple video...i hope this helps somebody and enjoy!!!!
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area.
Posts: 3,451
Received 335 Likes
on
295 Posts
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1597121735
We unceremoniously dropped the paint last October to take a 4K mile round trip to Vegas in it.
Holy Hell that was a blast! I had the time of my life. Got to see the Southwest. It was a great trip and since the Mrs. suggested taking the Vette, she couldn't even get mad if it broke down.
Had a 5 minute issue with a piece of loose electrical tape, but other than that? Nothing. It ran perfect.. Oh my gosh did we have fun.
Everyone should do this at least once!
Did I see a C5 in one of your vids the other day?
#7
Advanced
Thanks for that video! Bought my car last fall and am going to change to the glass top soon. I had been wondering if there were any tips to doing this a particular way. Great timing, THANKS!
#8
Le Mans Master
A lot easier to loosen the bolts from the inside
Also a lot easier to handle the top (especially heavier painted) both removing and installing with the door open and left foot inside the car
Also a lot easier to handle the top (especially heavier painted) both removing and installing with the door open and left foot inside the car
Last edited by Cruisinfanatic; 05-27-2018 at 04:29 PM.
#9
Race Director
OK you all... STOP and think about this.
In my opinion this video is crap. He has it BACKWARDS in regards to the sequence of how the bolts are removed and I will explain.
When I install new acrylic targa roof panel or even if it is a SMC painted roof panel.
I install the REAR Torx bolts and get them tight. The reason for this is that the rear 'B'
pillar area is much stronger and it is much less likely to move.
And by getting targa roof set and locked into the rear mounts....THEN...if the roof panel is CORRECTLY adjusted. Then the two bolts in the front will EASILY go right into the tagra roof front mounts and not under the STRESS he was so trying to communicate with us in his video.
And by knowing that the targa roof is NOT being pulled to the rear...the chances that the acrylic top cracking is now greatly reduced.
TO REMOVE THE ROOF PANEL:
I loosen the two bolts at the windshield FIRST...then loosen the rear bolts. Then raise the roof panel at the windshield area and lift off.
TO INSTALL THE ROOF PANEL.
I set the roof panel in place and TIGHTEN UP the REAR bolts first. Then I tighten up the front two bolts.
Now those of you who want to do it another way...have at it. Because IF you listen to what he says in the video...he even agrees that the rear 'B' pillar is stronger than the 'A' pillar.
Videos like this from people who have never had to repair a car that was serious hit and have no clue about 'structure' should not put these out on the web.
Because If you think about it...why would you want your targa roof being the part that actually draws in the 'A' pillar to the 'B'pillar. Being a bodyman...that make absolutely NO SENSE.
DUB
In my opinion this video is crap. He has it BACKWARDS in regards to the sequence of how the bolts are removed and I will explain.
When I install new acrylic targa roof panel or even if it is a SMC painted roof panel.
I install the REAR Torx bolts and get them tight. The reason for this is that the rear 'B'
pillar area is much stronger and it is much less likely to move.
And by getting targa roof set and locked into the rear mounts....THEN...if the roof panel is CORRECTLY adjusted. Then the two bolts in the front will EASILY go right into the tagra roof front mounts and not under the STRESS he was so trying to communicate with us in his video.
And by knowing that the targa roof is NOT being pulled to the rear...the chances that the acrylic top cracking is now greatly reduced.
TO REMOVE THE ROOF PANEL:
I loosen the two bolts at the windshield FIRST...then loosen the rear bolts. Then raise the roof panel at the windshield area and lift off.
TO INSTALL THE ROOF PANEL.
I set the roof panel in place and TIGHTEN UP the REAR bolts first. Then I tighten up the front two bolts.
Now those of you who want to do it another way...have at it. Because IF you listen to what he says in the video...he even agrees that the rear 'B' pillar is stronger than the 'A' pillar.
Videos like this from people who have never had to repair a car that was serious hit and have no clue about 'structure' should not put these out on the web.
Because If you think about it...why would you want your targa roof being the part that actually draws in the 'A' pillar to the 'B'pillar. Being a bodyman...that make absolutely NO SENSE.
DUB
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
The roof panels can be heavy and awkward for some so if it's easier for a person to open the door or sit inside then by all means please do that...no sense in risking collateral damage. I apologize for being fit enough to remove a panel with what looks like minimal effort.
The whole reason i do things the way i do them is to basically eliminate the chance of damaging threads which is WAY more likely than some type of structural damage.
(and btw, i've done structural repairs, frame welding and auto body refinishing...)
Have you driven a C4 on a bumpy or uneven road? or driven one hard? Have you done this with the top OFF? I'd say thats way more likely to damage the front windshield structure (from twist) than tightening a couple bolts (and did i say NOT to over tighten??? pretty sure i did) yet you never read stories of front structural damage from a roof panel....at least I've never seen one.
For what it's worth, the Service Manual doesn't really say there is a pattern...for both removal and install, they have it written as "Front then Rear" (which is exactly how i do it for the install). They do however list torque specs (13lb ft front and 11 lb ft rear).
The whole reason i do things the way i do them is to basically eliminate the chance of damaging threads which is WAY more likely than some type of structural damage.
(and btw, i've done structural repairs, frame welding and auto body refinishing...)
Have you driven a C4 on a bumpy or uneven road? or driven one hard? Have you done this with the top OFF? I'd say thats way more likely to damage the front windshield structure (from twist) than tightening a couple bolts (and did i say NOT to over tighten??? pretty sure i did) yet you never read stories of front structural damage from a roof panel....at least I've never seen one.
For what it's worth, the Service Manual doesn't really say there is a pattern...for both removal and install, they have it written as "Front then Rear" (which is exactly how i do it for the install). They do however list torque specs (13lb ft front and 11 lb ft rear).
Last edited by mark970; 05-27-2018 at 09:03 PM.
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
#14
Race Director
However a person chooses to remove/install their targa roof is entirely up to them.
I know how I do it at my shop and how I instruct my customers to do it and that is all that matters to me. I thought I would pass along some insight on this issue. Knowing that about 98% of you do not do heavy crash repairs and have been to schooled about structure and how it needs to be taken into consideration when these cars are being repaired.
And for those who have replaced the 'A' and 'B' pillar w/strips with the aftermarket NON-latex designed w/strip.
Do not be surprised if your acrylic top cracks or you get indentations above the front mount points over time.
And as for what is written in the service manual....or whatever written manual GM has written on how to take or put on the targa roof. I am sorry but I use common sense and reverse the procedure. So if they say to remove it "Front then rear''...then logic would dictate. When installing the top do the rear then the front.
And I hope we all know the service manuals have incorrect information that got past the proof readers. I know that when I am using the service manuals or wiring diagrams that I just do not blindly follow what is written. I stop and think about it to make sure it makes sense in whatever I am doing. I guess that is to my benefit due to working on these for decades and I can see where things do not make sense.
DUB
.
I know how I do it at my shop and how I instruct my customers to do it and that is all that matters to me. I thought I would pass along some insight on this issue. Knowing that about 98% of you do not do heavy crash repairs and have been to schooled about structure and how it needs to be taken into consideration when these cars are being repaired.
And for those who have replaced the 'A' and 'B' pillar w/strips with the aftermarket NON-latex designed w/strip.
Do not be surprised if your acrylic top cracks or you get indentations above the front mount points over time.
And as for what is written in the service manual....or whatever written manual GM has written on how to take or put on the targa roof. I am sorry but I use common sense and reverse the procedure. So if they say to remove it "Front then rear''...then logic would dictate. When installing the top do the rear then the front.
And I hope we all know the service manuals have incorrect information that got past the proof readers. I know that when I am using the service manuals or wiring diagrams that I just do not blindly follow what is written. I stop and think about it to make sure it makes sense in whatever I am doing. I guess that is to my benefit due to working on these for decades and I can see where things do not make sense.
DUB
.
#15
Le Mans Master
The roof panels can be heavy and awkward for some so if it's easier for a person to open the door or sit inside then by all means please do that...no sense in risking collateral damage. I apologize for being fit enough to remove a panel with what looks like minimal effort.
The whole reason i do things the way i do them is to basically eliminate the chance of damaging threads which is WAY more likely than some type of structural damage.
(and btw, i've done structural repairs, frame welding and auto body refinishing...)
Have you driven a C4 on a bumpy or uneven road? or driven one hard? Have you done this with the top OFF? I'd say thats way more likely to damage the front windshield structure (from twist) than tightening a couple bolts (and did i say NOT to over tighten??? pretty sure i did) yet you never read stories of front structural damage from a roof panel....at least I've never seen one.
For what it's worth, the Service Manual doesn't really say there is a pattern...for both removal and install, they have it written as "Front then Rear" (which is exactly how i do it for the install). They do however list torque specs (13lb ft front and 11 lb ft rear).
The whole reason i do things the way i do them is to basically eliminate the chance of damaging threads which is WAY more likely than some type of structural damage.
(and btw, i've done structural repairs, frame welding and auto body refinishing...)
Have you driven a C4 on a bumpy or uneven road? or driven one hard? Have you done this with the top OFF? I'd say thats way more likely to damage the front windshield structure (from twist) than tightening a couple bolts (and did i say NOT to over tighten??? pretty sure i did) yet you never read stories of front structural damage from a roof panel....at least I've never seen one.
For what it's worth, the Service Manual doesn't really say there is a pattern...for both removal and install, they have it written as "Front then Rear" (which is exactly how i do it for the install). They do however list torque specs (13lb ft front and 11 lb ft rear).
Also don't get you running around the car tightening bolts when you can simply sit in one of the seats to do it.
Last edited by Cruisinfanatic; 05-28-2018 at 09:21 AM.
#16
Race Director
I don't understand what stress you think there is. The rears should be tightened first and then the fronts tightening the front straight down. There is no stress on anything as long as everything is aligned correctly. This will help eliminate squeaks from my experience also.
Also don't get you running around the car tightening bolts when you can simply sit in one of the seats to do it.
Also don't get you running around the car tightening bolts when you can simply sit in one of the seats to do it.
DUB
#17
Race Director
Member Since: Feb 2002
Location: Compound in the Grove, Ga.
Posts: 11,329
Received 910 Likes
on
583 Posts
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods)
2018 C4 of Year Finalist
2015 C4 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '16
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
X3 I will add that most of the roofs that crack, are when the car is left out in the hot sun without a side window left cracked open to let the heat out.
Leave your windows up in the hot sun and watch how the roof starts to bow up from the trapped heat.
Last edited by FASTAZU; 05-28-2018 at 12:50 PM.
#18
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area.
Posts: 3,451
Received 335 Likes
on
295 Posts
I kinda felt stupid after reading this because I never really knew how to install and remove the top in mine. I mean, I had been doing it, but never really gave it much thought before this popped up.
Unable to locate GM info on the top, I went to Melrose. They are generally considered to be experts on the C4 roof panel.
The acrimony is unnecessary. There's apparently a lot more to properly installing and aligning the top and protecting it from damage than is readily apparent. They even blame weatherstrip compression and/or composition for top damage.
Check out their piece on it. They are talking shims in the back, dropping trim to align the front, and a whole lot of other things I never even gave a second thought to.
http://www.melrosecorvette.com/c4-co...-installation/
Unable to locate GM info on the top, I went to Melrose. They are generally considered to be experts on the C4 roof panel.
The acrimony is unnecessary. There's apparently a lot more to properly installing and aligning the top and protecting it from damage than is readily apparent. They even blame weatherstrip compression and/or composition for top damage.
Check out their piece on it. They are talking shims in the back, dropping trim to align the front, and a whole lot of other things I never even gave a second thought to.
http://www.melrosecorvette.com/c4-co...-installation/
Last edited by confab; 05-28-2018 at 02:47 PM.
#19
Race Director
There's apparently a lot more to properly installing and aligning the top and protecting it from damage than is readily apparent. They even blame weatherstrip compression and/or composition for top damage.
Check out their piece on it. They are talking shims in the back, dropping trim to align the front, and a whole lot of other things I never even gave a second thought to.
Check out their piece on it. They are talking shims in the back, dropping trim to align the front, and a whole lot of other things I never even gave a second thought to.
I am glad you took the time to do your own investigation on this and not take a bodies words on it and get another opinion.
Being totally aware of all that was written above and knowing what can happen due to seeing it on numerous Corvettes...and having install well more than 50 acrylic targa roof panels.
Hopefully some people will understand that there are some people who actually try pass along information and real world experiences so people working on this area of the car do not have problems. And hopefully they do not take some of these videos out on the internet as a guide on how to do it. So many of the videos I have seen from non professionals are worthless and lack correct information.
DUB
#20
Drifting
I don't need no stinkin' video...
Hey guys...simple video to show you how I remove and install a removable top on a C4 Corvette. The purpose of this video is very simple...every summer I see a thread where a guy (who just bought his first C4...) is asking how to remove the top. Sometimes they figured out the bolts but the top is still "stuck" and not lifting up (weatherstrip stuck together) so i thought I would upload this simple video...i hope this helps somebody and enjoy!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9S4QBrht1PA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9S4QBrht1PA
Last edited by RetroGuy; 05-29-2018 at 12:07 PM.