c1j1c2

I'm working on buying an aluminum trailer to tow around my '1964 Corvette. Would like to know where to anchor the car onto the trailer. I don't currently have the trailer, so I can't provide information on that, but would like recommendations on where I should think of anchoring the car onto the trailer. If you have any recommendations on specific straps also, I'd like to hear recommendations.

Nowhere Man

Any place the rail road used to tie the car down will work. You can use straps to go around the front A arms and in the rear use the spring. Or you can get the wheel straps

65 Pro Vette

Frankie the Fink

skids

Redbird

Google Mac's Custom Tie Downs, and buy the Versa Tie aluminum track that can be welded to the aluminum trailer floor. Then buy the over-the tire web tie downs. I did this to my last trailer and it is the best. Your car will not move around. Their phone is 800-666-1586.

2StrikeHtr

I also use Mac's - very high quality product. I've tied down my Vette, Imports, Yukon, Land Crusier, even large John Deere tractors. I have large heavy duty recessed D-ring tie-down anchors in each corner as well as the middle of the trailer that I can grab from almost any angle because they also swivel. As Redbird said Versa Tie is great but if you don't want to install that you might look at the recessed D-rings. Good luck ! Tom

Frankie the Fink

Yup that would be them!

mikelj

I recommend E Track system be installed, I use them for my '63, '64, '66 and '81 Corvettes in my trailer. Much better than any straps, criss-cross, etc. And very easy to get on and off.
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Towing...-Rubber-Blocks

Mr D.

I currently use 2" ratchet straps (4) that are rated at 10,000 lbs. and 24" Axle Straps (4) that are also rated at 10,000 lbs. I loop the Axle Straps around the A-Arm up front and the rear I try to get around the frame or Trailing Arm. The rear is the hardest but I have never had an issue when towing mine on a trailer (16' steel and wood Dove Tail).

My trailer is getting long in the tooth from being loaned out and setting in the open elements for the last 12 years and is in need of a face lift. I would prefer to use the frame hooks that Frankie pointed out and anchor plates on my deck.

The wheel nets are also a good option if the trailer is configures to use them.

Big Hit

What type of rim's are on the car?
One option for the rears is to tie through the rim, if possible.

c1j1c2

I have knock off wheels, which I should have mentioned, so I can't use through the wheel straps, but thank you for all the great information. This will definitely help when trying to determine the right trailer to purchase. You guys rock!

Rich Yanulis

I believe in keeping things simple.

When I had a custom trailer built, no fancy tie down system was desired.
2 D rings at the front, 2 D rings at the rear is all I wanted.

Here are the tie downs I use.......simple, quick and safe.
I have towed the car at least 30,000 miles and it has never moved an inch.

watson

I have towed both of my cars many many miles and the T hooks in the factory slots are simple and rock steady. I use two ratcheting straps at each end. No looping straps over the suspension or other parts that can get damaged. Those slots were put there by GM for just this purpose.

Doc

GTOguy

I used to use T-hooks in the frame lug holes on all the older cars I hauled, with binders and chains. Lately, I've taken to the fabric ratchet straps and the wheel-type hold-downs. These let the car bounce a bit on the suspension, but are easier on the car and wheel bearings. I have had a few chained-to-frame cars end up with brinelled wheel bearing races from the 'slide-hammer' effect of the car bouncing against the anchor points on the frame when the chains changed a little tension over long hauls. YMMV...........

Frankie the Fink

I agree. Letting the car bounce a bit on the suspension naturally is the easiest on everything IMO.

I really like the fabric front wheel straps on the U-haul trailers with suspension chains fore and aft as backup/safety.
I would go for an equivalent setup on a personal trailer if it could be done (and I owned one)..

There is a trick to really get the things tight the first time though - took a bit to get my routine in sequence for the best results....and a few tricks to keep from dragging the frame at the apex of the ramps.

Early last Monday off to fix the trailing arms (Ugh!)

GTOguy

Very smart idea with the ramps under the tow rig to lessen the approach angle at the trailer ramps, Frank. I'll have to remember that one!!

Frankie the Fink

Had to get creative - there aren't any nearby "dips" to drive the trailer into to accomplish the same thing - neighborhood is flat...
Running the trailer's "landing gear" down works but is hard on asphalt and takes some muscle. The ultra-light Race Ramps work perfectly.

wmf62

very clever

Bill