NewbVetteGuy

I'm going to borrow a neighbor's hoist tonight after work and I've got a cheap engine stand; I'm going to try to pull the engine this weekend, hopefully with a helper, but maybe not.

The intake, distributor, heads, plug wires, headers, alternator, AC compressor, radiator, fan + shroud, fuel lines, & vacuum lines are all removed. Hood is still on.


My understanding is that all I really need to do at this point is to unbolt the motor mounts and the transmission bell housing bolts and I'm pretty much good-to-go; anything I'm forgetting?

-If anyone has any pictures of the motor mount bolts that I'm supposed to remove, it would help me understand what I'm supposed to do there. I haven't done this since I was 16 and I definitely don't remember much of it. I remember them being a GIANT PITA and if anyone has any tool recommendations that will make the job easier, I'm all ears.

I can now see almost all the transmission bell housing bolts (700r4/4L60e) so I don't think they'll be terrible, but I've heard horror stories- any recommendations on socket extension length or wobble/no wobble any tips like that?
-I should have a jack under the transmission ready to catch it just in case, right?
How do I pull the flex plate apart from the torque converter with the transmission in place?


Given that I've already taken the heads and intake off- where should I attach the chain from the hoist to the block? -Just put a bolt through the chain and into a head bolt hole in the block (one on each side enough?) -I think it's a cheapo hoist without the thing that lets you balance it from front to back- which bolt holes in the block are about the center of the gravity front to back? (Just pick a botl hole towards the center of the block from front to back?


-I have a Steeroids Rack and Pinion and I'm assuming that with the Stock L82 oil pan I don't have to disconnect the rack to just pull the engine out with the hoist....


Adam

BigBlock77

Adam,

Make sure you unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate too, I didn't see that listed above. Sometimes you can just use a long flat tip screwdriver or pry bar to slide the torque converter back slightly to free it up from the flex plate. As you pull the motor, you may need to help it along a little. Mine is a 4-speed, so I have slung them as an assembly both with the small block and the big block. I didn't have the fancy balancer either for the hoist, just a chain. I did end up using a shorter bolt where the chain went into the rear of the head so I didn't have to back it out into the firewall to remove the chain. I didn't get that right on the first shot...

Also, while you don't necessarily need to remove the hood, it might make your job easier. Just mark the location of the hinges on the bottom of the hood with tape to outline the shape to make realignment easier when you go back together.

Sigforty

Jack up the front of the car and take off one front wheel. There is a 1% chance the engine hoist he has will be able to get the engine out without removing a wheel. The nose on a C3 is just too long for most of the hoist to work except from the side.

You also didn't mention the year of the car, but you probably have a speedometer cable connection to the trans. Are you pulling it with the transmission? That is normally easier. You also need to remove the grounding cable and straps.

NewbVetteGuy

Yea... Forgot that part entirely.. Probably blocked out that painful memory (actually I think my dad did that part when I wasn't even there).

-I already marked the hood hinges with tape "just in case". ;-)


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

Thanks for that tip! This gives me hope I might not even need to remove the hood!
It's a 1979 but the trans has been swapped to a 4L60e so no speedo cable. I plan to leave the transmission where it is...


Guys: Since I'm trying to pull the engine block and leave the trans, I need to pull the starter, too; don't I?


Adam

drwet

Yes. Remove the starter, then the torque convertor shield. This will give you access to the bolts that attach the torque convertor to the flexplate. Remove one bolt, then rotate the engine (a large screwdriver to engage the teeth on the flywheel works or there is a tool for this) to access the rest of the bolts.

lars

Adam -
Just out of curiosity, why in the world did you go to the trouble of removing all that stuff off the engine while the engine is still in the car..? The engine easily comes out complete, and you don't even have to remove the radiator. Here is an engine I pulled just recently - it's a C2, but the frame/chassis/geometry and process is exactly the same. Engine is pulled loose from the tranny/bellhousing, lifted up to clear the engine mounts, and then just rotated a little to clear the radiator:




Going back in - engine is assembled complete with alternator, pulleys, belts, manifolds and distributor:




Here I'm dropping a complete engine with supercharger, all pulleys and accessories installed, and the tranny attached, into a C3. In this case, with the tranny attached, the radiator was removed to allow a "flatter" installation angle. Note that the distributor and all engine parts are installed to the engine:
​​​​​






So don't waste your time doing unnecessary work "over-the-fender." Just unbolt the engine and pull it out. Assemble it complete on the engine stand and just drop it back in. The only parts you have to remove off the engine are the fan, the starter and the fuel pump if you don't have the tranny attached. Doing this, it takes less than 2 hours to pull the engine out if you're working by yourself and drinking beer.

Lars

NewbVetteGuy

I happen to be replacing my radiator and swapping to electric fans.

I planned to replace the heads, cam, and intake with the engine in the car, but then I realized that my rear main seal is leaking really badly and my stock flexplate could turn into a bomb @ 440hp and I want to keep my toes, so after I had already pulled all that crap off, I finally decided to just pull the whole block out. -It's 40 years old and I want to get it checked out by a professional.
-I'm also going to LS coil-near-plug ignition so the distributor and all the plug wires had to get pulled, too.


Adam

69ttop502

TimAT

I did find out, right after this was taken, that with the fan shroud and radiator in place, it won't go in the hole with the Lakewood housing. Just forward of the starter you can see the motor mount so that should give you an idea.

resdoggie

Get a helper.

Remove the hood.

I don't care how good your skills may be but don't pull/replace the engine solo.

NewbVetteGuy

Jims66

Agree. However, if you do work alone always keep your cell phone in your pocket so you can call for help when you get pinned somewhere. Stuff happens. Good Luck.

gkull

I never have removed the hood even doing BBCs. Disconnect the battery, then pull the wires off the starter or just unbolt the starter and lay it down. I us a floor jack under the tranny because it supports the tranny and you can move it up and down to help get the right angle to R&R the motor

I take the two long bolts out of the frame from the bottom of the engine mounts start lifting the engine a few inches to ease removing the fuel pump. Then wire the pump back out of the way

you probably have two ground straps. Like a 4 Guage wire on the passenger side lower and a braided flat copper from the rear fire wall

put a chain using head bolts front corner to rear corner. Put the hook near the middle or where ever for the balance point and angle if needed

Street Rat

Adam,
Don't forget to have someone take pictures.

We love pictures on the CF.

Craig

Sunracer

a little tip on the starter-once you have disconnected the battery, drop the starter with all wires attached, Once you lower it down (have something handy to rest it on, it's heavy) then disconnect the wiring. Reverse procedure to install.

DorianC3

DorianC3

Just a quick side question here. I am planning on pulling mine in a couple of weeks as well. I have never pulled an engine with an M20 stuck to it. Is there anything significant that I have to watch out for ?

scottjamison

As long as you have the radiator, rad support, and hood off you will be good. I pulled and reinstalled my BB with the trans attached. Like mentioned here, pull the wheel and do it from the side.


Coming out

Going back in

gkull

Adam, did you get her done?