78 Corvette Trailing Arm Pivot Bolt Torque
#1
78 Corvette Trailing Arm Pivot Bolt Torque
Hi All,
Just replaced my bushings in my rear trailing arms on my 78 Vette. I saved the old shims and marked them inner and outer so they didn't get lost or mixed up.
My question is how tight do I tighten the front pivot bolt? The manual states 50 ft lbs but I have also been told to just tighten to take out any minor play and until you feel a little drag when you move the arm up and down and then drop in the cotter key. Who's correct.
Thanks
Just replaced my bushings in my rear trailing arms on my 78 Vette. I saved the old shims and marked them inner and outer so they didn't get lost or mixed up.
My question is how tight do I tighten the front pivot bolt? The manual states 50 ft lbs but I have also been told to just tighten to take out any minor play and until you feel a little drag when you move the arm up and down and then drop in the cotter key. Who's correct.
Thanks
#2
Factory shop manual calls for 50 ft/lbs.
#3
I'm not sure either. I can insert the cotter pin before I get anywhere near 50 lbs like about 20lbs. For now that is what I did, stopped when I could insert the cotter pin.
#4
Race Director
If you have rubber bushings....you obviously will feel a drag if you pick up the arm when you get it tight due to you are fighting against the rubber being compressed. AS IT SHOULD BE.
I generally go to 45 lbs/ft and then tighten it to get the cotter pin in it.
Keeping in mind I also got the shims to be rather snug/tight inside the pocket ... but not so tight that I have to beat the death out of a shim to get it in.
Tighten up yours as you see fit...but I know would NOT tighten it any less than I stated. No need to try to 'reinvent the wheel' in this area.
DUB
I generally go to 45 lbs/ft and then tighten it to get the cotter pin in it.
Keeping in mind I also got the shims to be rather snug/tight inside the pocket ... but not so tight that I have to beat the death out of a shim to get it in.
Tighten up yours as you see fit...but I know would NOT tighten it any less than I stated. No need to try to 'reinvent the wheel' in this area.
DUB
#9
Race Director
I would not waste my time in bending the end of the cotter pin due to when you go to the alignment shop ( which should be right away)..the cotter pin will more than likely need to come out and the shims moved around to align it. The odds that you do not need to do any adjusting at the trailing arm shims is highly unlikely.
DUB
DUB
#11
Race Director
Hopefully when the trailing arm bushing was installed and the sleeve staked..IF rubber bushings were being installed. . A flat file or grinder was used to make sure the surface is flat so the shims are riding against the flat tapered washer instead of ANY portion of the sleeve protruding from it due to how it is staked..which will effect the alignment in time. and is just not be right.
DUB
DUB