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I have a question on how to remove a exhaust Manifold Stud.Oh course it broke on me when I was trying to loosen the nut. I do have enough thread on it to possible take it off. Is it a nut against the flange that has to removed or is this part of the flange? If it is a nut, what is the best tool to use to remove, because it is darn near impossible to loosen. Any help is welcomed!! Thanks in advance.
Put an open end wrench on the remaining nut and it can be backed out. You may have to grind the "ears" off the nut to fit a wrench. You can then put it back together using a bolt with the same thread pattern. You're lucky you only broke one.
Put an open end wrench on the remaining nut and it can be backed out. You may have to grind the "ears" off the nut to fit a wrench. You can then put it back together using a bolt with the same thread pattern. You're lucky you only broke one.
This.
Same thing happened to me, 1 stud broke and another stud bent. Those "nuts" are part of the stud and offer a convenient way to get them off. The current revision of the studs don't have a "nut", just a round section in the middle.
Heat the corner area where the stud is broken with a torch until it's red hot then attach a vice grip to the stud to unscrew it if there's enough room. As in tapping a hole, loosen some then tighten some instead of trying to unscrew it all at once. If you feel too much resistance while removing just reheat. If you do this with the manifold in place put some sheet aluminum scrap and aluminum foil around that area to prevent burning wires, etc. What you don't see in the picture is the stud protruding out the other side of the flange where the threads are solid rust; once the stud is free to turn, the rusted threads will bind as they enter the flange from the back. When removing rusted exhaust manifold nuts it's best to heat them with a torch first so they won't break the stud.
Heat the corner area where the stud is broken with a torch until it's red hot then attach a vice grip to the stud to unscrew it if there's enough room. As in tapping a hole, loosen some then tighten some instead of trying to unscrew it all at once. If you feel too much resistance while removing just reheat. If you do this with the manifold in place put some sheet aluminum scrap and aluminum foil around that area to prevent burning wires, etc. What you don't see in the picture is the stud protruding out the other side of the flange where the threads are solid rust; once the stud is free to turn, the rusted threads will bind as they enter the flange from the back. When removing rusted exhaust manifold nuts it's best to heat them with a torch first so they won't break the stud.
I got away with a mapp gas torch years ago. Once I got them all out I chased the threads before torquing the new ones in. I used Napa studs and ended up jamming 2 nuts together to be able to torque them in properly. I too ended up trimming a wrench down to be able to do this.
Hello to everyone. Thanks in advance. This is my first time posting. I'm not sure I'm responding or adding. Either way I need a little help. My studs are not rusted. I broke one because the nut was messed up and I use an impact tool. I shoud have been a little more patient. After reading all the comments I see now I could have used a nut buster. To late for that. My question my be simple but it is definitely important. After I heat and use lubricate, I'm going to try the double nut trick on the remaining threads. My question, ; is it lefty-loosey for the stud?
Hello to everyone. Thanks in advance. This is my first time posting. I'm not sure I'm responding or adding. Either way I need a little help. My studs are not rusted. I broke one because the nut was messed up and I use an impact tool. I shoud have been a little more patient. After reading all the comments I see now I could have used a nut buster. To late for that. My question my be simple but it is definitely important. After I heat and use lubricate, I'm going to try the double nut trick on the remaining threads. My question, ; is it lefty-loosey for the stud?
after all is said n done the easiest is pull the header out heat the flange and stud red hot touch a candle to the top of the stud the paraffin in the candle will draw in to the thread
when it cools it should come out with your fingers a very old plumbers trick
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