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The negative battery terminal no longer adjusts or tightens. What do you recommend? Thanks
Just replaced those crappy connectors the other day and these from Duralast are SOLID !!…you can get them from Autozone and are about $28.00 for both !!..don’t even bother with the OEM ones even if new.
Just replaced those crappy connectors the other day and these from Duralast are SOLID !!…you can get them from Autozone and are about $28.00 for both !!..don’t even bother with the OEM ones even if new.
Best part about terminals like these is they make it a piece of cake to do a big 3 grounding wire upgrade.
Best part about terminals like these is they make it a piece of cake to do a big 3 grounding wire upgrade.
If all your ground connections are “clean” I find no reason to go to a “bigger” ground wire…the OE ground wires are big enough to carry current back to the battery.
If all your ground connections are “clean” I find no reason to go to a “bigger” ground wire…the OE ground wires are big enough to carry current back to the battery.
It lowers the resistance between the different ground planes, leading to a more stable ground for everything.
I haven't seen issues with it on my c6, but it helped stabilize the charging system on my TBSS a lot. If you have an aftermarket stereo or similar other power draws it's beneficial too.
It lowers the resistance between the different ground planes, leading to a more stable ground for everything.
I haven't seen issues with it on my c6, but it helped stabilize the charging system on my TBSS a lot. If you have an aftermarket stereo or similar other power draws it's beneficial too.
If I see an excessive voltage drop on the ground side even after being cleaned I’d consider rewiring…I won’t do if if it’s not necessary.
I, in desperation bought the gold Zone connectors a year ago. I used extra wire so they had optimum contact. I then bought purple locktite so the lousy allen setscrew that chew into wire would not loosen. I even soldered one cleanly cut copper end so crushing it would be lessened. They did stretch on battery and had to be torqued several times.
I was waiting for a hydraulic crimper to be restocked and did not know what gauge my Vette's battery cables were so they did provide a temporary solution. I would not praise this and consider it bulletproof. The cables are held on by being crushed in one small spot on the set screw.
My custom hydraulic crimped ends and new off road style battery terminal with 3/8" through bolt will not be falling off. 2008 Z51 repaired battery cables
What and why is the failure on C6 battery cable ends? Mine are still good as new with 16 years and 105k miles. But probably only removed them 5 times total....3 battery replacements and couple times to cut power for repairs.
I can only think that they are getting man-handled too much during removal. Or wrong nuts being used to replace lost ones.
Just replaced those crappy connectors the other day and these from Duralast are SOLID !!…you can get them from Autozone and are about $28.00 for both !!..don’t even bother with the OEM ones even if new.
These are the ones I used as well. I SHOULD have done it sooner. The factory clamps are a poor design no doubt for easy assemble at the factory.
If all your ground connections are “clean” I find no reason to go to a “bigger” ground wire…the OE ground wires are big enough to carry current back to the battery.
Since I’ve had Vette da negative battery cable has been a pain to tighten. It’s something I’ve put off correcting one too many times. I had to take it off yesterday to clear a code that my normal Reset Tool wouldn’t clear. I guess da gods thought it was time for to me fix da terminal because I couldn’t retighten it. Now goodlier than new. Seeing on Vette forum I am not da only victim of a flimsy design. New cable is an assembly and is an expensive alternative. I need my money to help da poor gas station men.