Do you guys buy "Re-Built" parts? If so.....
#2
Burning Brakes
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Location: Wisconsin
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2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Well I've got rebuilt calipers, rebuilt carbs, rebuilt motor, rebuilt trans, rebuilt steering box, rebuilt master cylinder....a lot of rebuilt stuff, stuff I rebuilt myself. Rebuilt is dandy.
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#4
Race Director
I have no problem with either using professionally rebuilt parts, or things that I can rebuild. That said lately I've started shying away from using rebuilt brake calipers and power steering control valves, not because I have any safety or reliability issues with rebuilt ones, but only because I've been getting too many that leak right out of the box. When this happens it costs me money, and annoys my customers, so it's just not worth the possible trouble to me.
#5
Le Mans Master
I'd trust a Lonestar (or DIY) rebuild of a stainless-sleeved original Delco Moraine casting before I bought a new casting.
Haven't you been asking this question for years? If you buy new, and need stock size brakes, just buy Wilwood aluminum calipers.
If you have the skills, you are likely better of rebuilding the component yourself, whatever it is.
Haven't you been asking this question for years? If you buy new, and need stock size brakes, just buy Wilwood aluminum calipers.
If you have the skills, you are likely better of rebuilding the component yourself, whatever it is.
#6
Le Mans Master
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Brake parts in particular you pointed out. Let's see, many, many years ago when I still lived in Northern Wisconsin. So I know it was a long time ago. One beautiful spring day it was time to awaken my 77 Corvette from its long winter nap.
Car fired right up! Hooray! Put my foot on the brake just to check it before putting the car in gear. Pedal went straight to the floor.
Long story short, the original master cylinder died.
I removed it and went into my local Northern Auto supply store. Keeping in mind that this was long before the car was a classic, and who knew I'd still have it all these years later. It was a 14 or 15 year old used car.
I took my leaking master cylinder up to the counter, and asked, do you have one of these? He went in the back, game out shortly with a box with a rebuilt master in it. I have this one he says. Store brand rebuilt, Blah, blah price plus core. I remember it was very inexpensive. Home I went and on it went.
It looks exactly like the original. A few hours later. I was on the road again.
That master is still in my car today.
Now the car is 47 years old. The rebuilt has outlasted the original!
So.........
Car fired right up! Hooray! Put my foot on the brake just to check it before putting the car in gear. Pedal went straight to the floor.
Long story short, the original master cylinder died.
I removed it and went into my local Northern Auto supply store. Keeping in mind that this was long before the car was a classic, and who knew I'd still have it all these years later. It was a 14 or 15 year old used car.
I took my leaking master cylinder up to the counter, and asked, do you have one of these? He went in the back, game out shortly with a box with a rebuilt master in it. I have this one he says. Store brand rebuilt, Blah, blah price plus core. I remember it was very inexpensive. Home I went and on it went.
It looks exactly like the original. A few hours later. I was on the road again.
That master is still in my car today.
Now the car is 47 years old. The rebuilt has outlasted the original!
So.........
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Alwyn678 (04-24-2024)
#7
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I'd trust a Lonestar (or DIY) rebuild of a stainless-sleeved original Delco Moraine casting before I bought a new casting.
Haven't you been asking this question for years? If you buy new, and need stock size brakes, just buy Wilwood aluminum calipers.
If you have the skills, you are likely better of rebuilding the component yourself, whatever it is.
Haven't you been asking this question for years? If you buy new, and need stock size brakes, just buy Wilwood aluminum calipers.
If you have the skills, you are likely better of rebuilding the component yourself, whatever it is.
#8
Tech Contributor
I would just like to add a person comment, not directed at you at all, but your comment does bring to mind a lot of dealings I have. Everyone wants to save a dime, I get it, I am the same.
However, many times people are in dreamland. For instance, I can't tell you how many times I spoke with guys who wanted custom built units only they want them for the lowest, cheapest vendor price on the market. Few understand the difference in the work, so I take the time to explain it, even without a sale. As long as those who inquire know what they're looking for.
Rebuilt parts can be very good or very bad today. Some suppliers mentioned online on many forums sound great but that's not always the case. I had a 50% rejection rate from one of them over years. They had, and I can only guess it hasn't changed, no QC. Other suppliers copy known good parts from original suppliers only to fail in some areas of the part. The part is no good, yet it is still shipped out- in this case a new part that cost more than the original part, which is the best. I have those parts in my shop today in fact.
Your best tool is education, not penny pinching, as quality and low price typically don't go together. Maybe they do in some cases, if so then all the better.
I now have seen posting of repairs online with the caption "if you know, you know" I hate this because those who don't know may want to know so they can make the best decision on a purchase. "If you know, you know," dumbing down of this country, in my opinion.
However, many times people are in dreamland. For instance, I can't tell you how many times I spoke with guys who wanted custom built units only they want them for the lowest, cheapest vendor price on the market. Few understand the difference in the work, so I take the time to explain it, even without a sale. As long as those who inquire know what they're looking for.
Rebuilt parts can be very good or very bad today. Some suppliers mentioned online on many forums sound great but that's not always the case. I had a 50% rejection rate from one of them over years. They had, and I can only guess it hasn't changed, no QC. Other suppliers copy known good parts from original suppliers only to fail in some areas of the part. The part is no good, yet it is still shipped out- in this case a new part that cost more than the original part, which is the best. I have those parts in my shop today in fact.
Your best tool is education, not penny pinching, as quality and low price typically don't go together. Maybe they do in some cases, if so then all the better.
I now have seen posting of repairs online with the caption "if you know, you know" I hate this because those who don't know may want to know so they can make the best decision on a purchase. "If you know, you know," dumbing down of this country, in my opinion.
Last edited by GTR1999; 04-25-2024 at 03:53 PM.
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ctmccloskey (04-25-2024)
#10
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Working in the industry has taught me there is a BIG difference in "rebuilt" and "remanufactured".
"Remanufactured" means it has been re-done by integrating whatever new changes have come along in production to improve the part. Maybe a different material, clearance spec, internal part design....all the things they've learned since it was originally made.
"Rebuilt" means they replace seals, maybe bearings/bushings etc. (not guaranteed to have been done). Just the items that wear and are needed to make it function again. That doesn't mean it has the best materials etc. I've opened up lots of "rebuilt" parts and found old "but serviceable" internally.
I also tore down a lot of "new" imported alternators/starters a couple of years ago and....WOW... the quality of machining was amazingly terrible. Tolerances were all over the place and machining looked like it was done with a hammer and chisel. When I questioned a specific tolerance in an area and told them it seemed awful loose. They told me that interestingly that was their #1 failure point under warranty! Yet they were doing nothing to change/improve it!
Just pay close attention to what you're actually getting. I'm as cheap as the next guy also....I just select which parts are critical and which aren't.
JIM
"Remanufactured" means it has been re-done by integrating whatever new changes have come along in production to improve the part. Maybe a different material, clearance spec, internal part design....all the things they've learned since it was originally made.
"Rebuilt" means they replace seals, maybe bearings/bushings etc. (not guaranteed to have been done). Just the items that wear and are needed to make it function again. That doesn't mean it has the best materials etc. I've opened up lots of "rebuilt" parts and found old "but serviceable" internally.
I also tore down a lot of "new" imported alternators/starters a couple of years ago and....WOW... the quality of machining was amazingly terrible. Tolerances were all over the place and machining looked like it was done with a hammer and chisel. When I questioned a specific tolerance in an area and told them it seemed awful loose. They told me that interestingly that was their #1 failure point under warranty! Yet they were doing nothing to change/improve it!
Just pay close attention to what you're actually getting. I'm as cheap as the next guy also....I just select which parts are critical and which aren't.
JIM
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Alwyn678 (04-25-2024)
#11
I'm lucky that locally to me, is a place that strictly rebuilds alternators, and starters. The price is half of 'Remanufactured' and they used better components than what the reman version would have.
The guy will even throw it on a bench tester at idle and higher RPM's to verify it works before you take it. Solid place, takes cash and still maintains a warranty.
Other than that, I've rebuilt my calipers, and had a shop rebuild my master cylinder.
The guy will even throw it on a bench tester at idle and higher RPM's to verify it works before you take it. Solid place, takes cash and still maintains a warranty.
Other than that, I've rebuilt my calipers, and had a shop rebuild my master cylinder.
#12
Le Mans Master
I don't think there is a general rule, beyond "caveat emptor".
Two examples, with different results:
Headlight switch - Rebuild your own if you can. OR, buy a new one, and delete the vacuum headlight system, and convert headlights to relays to limit current through the switch.
Strut Rods - Always buy new heim-jointed strut rods instead. Don't attempt a rebuild, since the modern replacement is SO much better.
Two examples, with different results:
Headlight switch - Rebuild your own if you can. OR, buy a new one, and delete the vacuum headlight system, and convert headlights to relays to limit current through the switch.
Strut Rods - Always buy new heim-jointed strut rods instead. Don't attempt a rebuild, since the modern replacement is SO much better.
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Alwyn678 (04-25-2024)
#13
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Your best tool is education not penny pinching as quality and low price typically don't go together. Maybe they do in some cases, all the better. I now have seen posting of repairs online with the caption "if you know, you know" I hate this because those who don't know may want to know so they can make the best decision on a purchase. "If you know, you know," dumbing down of this country, in my opinion.[/QUOTE]
Great paragraph......"If you know you know" dumbing down of this country is So True
Great paragraph......"If you know you know" dumbing down of this country is So True
#14
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Working in the industry has taught me there is a BIG difference in "rebuilt" and "remanufactured".
"Remanufactured" means it has been re-done by integrating whatever new changes have come along in production to improve the part. Maybe a different material, clearance spec, internal part design....all the things they've learned since it was originally made.
"Rebuilt" means they replace seals, maybe bearings/bushings etc. (not guaranteed to have been done). Just the items that wear and are needed to make it function again. That doesn't mean it has the best materials etc. I've opened up lots of "rebuilt" parts and found old "but serviceable" internally.
I also tore down a lot of "new" imported alternators/starters a couple of years ago and....WOW... the quality of machining was amazingly terrible. Tolerances were all over the place and machining looked like it was done with a hammer and chisel. When I questioned a specific tolerance in an area and told them it seemed awful loose. They told me that interestingly that was their #1 failure point under warranty! Yet they were doing nothing to change/improve it!
Just pay close attention to what you're actually getting. I'm as cheap as the next guy also....I just select which parts are critical and which aren't.
JIM
"Remanufactured" means it has been re-done by integrating whatever new changes have come along in production to improve the part. Maybe a different material, clearance spec, internal part design....all the things they've learned since it was originally made.
"Rebuilt" means they replace seals, maybe bearings/bushings etc. (not guaranteed to have been done). Just the items that wear and are needed to make it function again. That doesn't mean it has the best materials etc. I've opened up lots of "rebuilt" parts and found old "but serviceable" internally.
I also tore down a lot of "new" imported alternators/starters a couple of years ago and....WOW... the quality of machining was amazingly terrible. Tolerances were all over the place and machining looked like it was done with a hammer and chisel. When I questioned a specific tolerance in an area and told them it seemed awful loose. They told me that interestingly that was their #1 failure point under warranty! Yet they were doing nothing to change/improve it!
Just pay close attention to what you're actually getting. I'm as cheap as the next guy also....I just select which parts are critical and which aren't.
JIM
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427Hotrod (04-25-2024)
#15
Safety Car
I'd trust a Lonestar (or DIY) rebuild of a stainless-sleeved original Delco Moraine casting before I bought a new casting.
Haven't you been asking this question for years? If you buy new, and need stock size brakes, just buy Wilwood aluminum calipers.
If you have the skills, you are likely better of rebuilding the component yourself, whatever it is.
Haven't you been asking this question for years? If you buy new, and need stock size brakes, just buy Wilwood aluminum calipers.
If you have the skills, you are likely better of rebuilding the component yourself, whatever it is.
Theres really nothing special about these that really make them likely to be worse than any other autoparts at your local autostore. or you can rebuild yourself with basic hand tools.
Ive had great experience with the aftermarket advance auto calipers myself.. Theres also something to be said for being able to yank them off and drive over to the autostore and exchange them under warranty the same day if need be if there is an issue.
My advice is go buy one replacement caliper and check it over.. if you feel its up to your standards replace the rest. (if your calipers have actually failed)
or buy them from a corvette specific reseller... but like almost anything including a regular 10si alternator, your likely going to pay more for it that way. Unless its a specific name brand item its a gamble. Case in point the adjustable rear strut rods I just bought new on ebay for about $100 less than the exact same brand, model and packaging being sold by places like zip or ecklers.. Other times ive seen those latter places be the better value..
Sometimes its not always as it seems. if bought plenty of stuff on ebay only to find the same exact thing at a better price locally.
Perception... people think a place like ebay will always be cheaper or infererior junk.. and a place like a corvette specific speed shop or reseller will always have better quality parts and some people bank on the perception.
Last edited by augiedoggy; 04-25-2024 at 10:23 PM.