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Is anyone running the following alternator in their LS3 vette: B13969170M? I contacted Mechman and their response was that compatible alternators were here: https://www.mechman.com/2008-2013-1/ and B13969170M is one of the alternators listed. Summit Racing sells that model and I’d like to purchase it from them because they’ll ship it for free, and I’ve had excellent service from them before. The problem is when I try to order it, one of the steps is to input vehicle particulars and after I do that, their system informs me that it won’t fit, whatever that means, because the mounting dimensions appear to be the same with units that their system claims will fit. I can still order it from Summit despite the warning, but they’re not cheap and I’d hate to discover that it somehow doesn’t fit or was electrically incompatible. So as I asked, if you’ve got one installed and working correctly then I’ll go ahead and order it.
Send a PM to BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance he is a sponsor on here, name is Bret. I bought a 250amp Mechman from him 4 years ago and it was the best part I ever upgraded on the car, puts out 199amps at idle.
Also, keep in mind that the rear end may need to be clocked different, so if ordering from RTK, he can spin the rear end to the needed oritation before sending the unit out.
As for 170 verse 240amps, 170 often is the better choice, and if you are running a under drive pulley, he can swap the pulley on the alternator so it putting out 45+amp at idle.
Hence is not the increased amperage power that is needed over all, just the alternator to put out more than the 14amp that the oem valeo alternator puts out at idle isntead.
The engine is completely stock, so no underdrive pulley. I’m just noticing that the OEM alternator is getting heat soaked a lot sooner than it had been, and coolant temps haven’t changed. I’m thinking it’s time to swap out the alternator in any case. Car is over 13 years old, 50k plus miles.
Is anyone running the following alternator in their LS3 vette: B13969170M? I contacted Mechman and their response was that compatible alternators were here: https://www.mechman.com/2008-2013-1/ and B13969170M is one of the alternators listed. Summit Racing sells that model and I’d like to purchase it from them because they’ll ship it for free, and I’ve had excellent service from them before. The problem is when I try to order it, one of the steps is to input vehicle particulars and after I do that, their system informs me that it won’t fit, whatever that means, because the mounting dimensions appear to be the same with units that their system claims will fit. I can still order it from Summit despite the warning, but they’re not cheap and I’d hate to discover that it somehow doesn’t fit or was electrically incompatible. So as I asked, if you’ve got one installed and working correctly then I’ll go ahead and order it.
2011 GS A6 coupe
Originally Posted by Dano523
Also, keep in mind that the rear end may need to be clocked different, so if ordering from RTK, he can spin the rear end to the needed oritation before sending the unit out.
As for 170 verse 240amps, 170 often is the better choice, and if you are running a under drive pulley, he can swap the pulley on the alternator so it putting out 45+amp at idle.
Hence is not the increased amperage power that is needed over all, just the alternator to put out more than the 14amp that the oem valeo alternator puts out at idle isntead.
This. Also call Mechman direct. Same price, they are most helpful. 270 amp will not charge at idle speed. Too much of an alt unless you have killer stereo. I have their 179 amp and love it.
Warning. It is on Mechman website , it warns that their 250 amp alternators do not charge at idle. Unless you bring the idle up. Listen to the manufacturer. Everyone else BS.
I’m going to order the 170A version. That’s all I was after originally. Thanks everyone for their help. @BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance explained it for me.
The engine is completely stock, so no underdrive pulley. I’m just noticing that the OEM alternator is getting heat soaked a lot sooner than it had been, and coolant temps haven’t changed. I’m thinking it’s time to swap out the alternator in any case. Car is over 13 years old, 50k plus miles.
Keep in mind that you can refresh an valeo alternator for under $50, even if you need to change out the bearings, replace the slip ring, and replace the brushes.
Most on the time, clean and replace the brushes if even worn down that much ($3), clean and re-grease the bearing, light pass on the slip ring to clean it up, and bob's your uncle on an alternator that has seen less than 60K. Hence more of just a labor thing to pull it apart, clean it up, re-grease the bearing, and put it back together. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
.
If you do upgrade to billet to have more amps at idle, then send me the old oem alternator instead of throwing it away (will cover shipping if needed), so I can refresh it , and gift it to someone on a swap for their old unit that needs a oem replacement alternator, to do the same over and over again.
Hence with the most of auto part stores selling alternators that are for the C5, not the C6 ,will save someone the hassle of having to go down that road, as well as the C note that the autoparts stores are charging for the rebuilt units with wrong voltage regulator in the first place.
Warning. It is on Mechman website , it warns that their 250 amp alternators do not charge at idle. Unless you bring the idle up. Listen to the manufacturer. Everyone else BS.
What's clearly BS is Mechman's statemement since "idle" is a relative term. I have literally sold hundreds of 250's and not once has anyone ever said they have an issue with their alternator charging.
Each and every alternator is tested before leaving with the results documented on a tag, placed on the alternator.
Maybe 250 amp owners can step in and share their experiences. Relatively, the 240's at the same engine idle speed typically show mid to high 130's with 250's showing high 190's to low 200's.
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Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Keep in mind that you can refresh an valeo alternator for under $50, even if you need to change out the bearings, replace the slip ring, and replace the brushes.
Most on the time, clean and replace the brushes if even worn down that much ($3), clean and re-grease the bearing, light pass on the slip ring to clean it up, and bob's your uncle on an alternator that has seen less than 60K. Hence more of just a labor thing to pull it apart, clean it up, re-grease the bearing, and put it back together. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
.
If you do upgrade to billet to have more amps at idle, then send me the old oem alternator instead of throwing it away (will cover shipping if needed), so I can refresh it , and gift it to someone on a swap for their old unit that needs a oem replacement alternator, to do the same over and over again.
Hence with the most of auto part stores selling alternators that are for the C5, not the C6 ,will save someone the hassle of having to go down that road, as well as the C note that the autoparts stores are charging for the rebuilt units with wrong voltage regulator in the first place.
Well, I’ve ordered the Mechman as in my first post. 3 weeks or so since Summit didn’t have one in stock. My original plan was to keep and rebuild the OEM. alternator and keep it as a spare. I don’t think you’d like what it would cost to ship it from Canada. There’s getting close to 200 members in the club I belong to, and quite a few C6 owners, so it might come in handy sooner or later, using your gifting concept.
Maybe 250 amp owners can step in and share their experiences. Relatively, the 240's at the same engine idle speed typically show mid to high 130's with 250's showing high 190's to low 200's.
Like I said, I bought a 250 amp from you over 4 years ago and it has been flawless. Car was overheating while stuck in traffic on a hot florida summer day, nothing worse than having to turn off the A/C when it's that hot.
I went with the 250 since I have a lot of power needs and it definitely charges at idle, tag said 199 amps at idle but haven't checked that. My power needs
What's clearly BS is Mechman's statemement since "idle" is a relative term. I have literally sold hundreds of 250's and not once has anyone ever said they have an issue with their alternator charging.
Each and every alternator is tested before leaving with the results documented on a tag, placed on the alternator.
Maybe 250 amp owners can step in and share their experiences. Relatively, the 240's at the same engine idle speed typically show mid to high 130's with 250's showing high 190's to low 200's.
the one I got from you a year ago idles at 14.5v with the fans running and the lights on.
By changing the pulleys on the larger amp units, you can spin them faster at idle, so they are producing more amperage there.
The downside, being spun faster, just means less life on the unit before rebuild isntead.
Simply, the more amperage the unit will put out, the more drag is has on the belt system, so there is a pro/con thing going on, if you don;t need the increased full amperage, and just trying to get the alternator to keep up with the cars demand when sitting at a light,or in stop and go traffic instead.
As stated, oem value 3 pole unit puts out about 14 amps as idle, and with ac on, which makes the radiator fan come on, the fan itself if pulling more than 14 amps.
as for this,
"Car was overheating while stuck in traffic on a hot Florida summer day, nothing worse than having to turn off the A/C when it's that hot".
Not seeing the connection, since higher output alternator at idle will solve the low voltage/amperage output problem, but will take a better cooling system itself, to resolve the heat problem instead.
Like I said, I bought a 250 amp from you over 4 years ago and it has been flawless. Car was overheating while stuck in traffic on a hot florida summer day, nothing worse than having to turn off the A/C when it's that hot.
I went with the 250 since I have a lot of power needs and it definitely charges at idle, tag said 199 amps at idle but haven't checked that. My power needs
Where did you buy those battery terminals? Exactly what I need for my vette.... Thanks
as for this,
"Car was overheating while stuck in traffic on a hot Florida summer day, nothing worse than having to turn off the A/C when it's that hot".
Not seeing the connection, since higher output alternator at idle will solve the low voltage/amperage output problem, but will take a better cooling system itself, to resolve the heat problem instead.
It was overhearing with the OEM alternator, new mechman cured my voltage problems. Thanks for your posts on the subject too, good stuff. 👍
What's clearly BS is Mechman's statemement since "idle" is a relative term. I have literally sold hundreds of 250's and not once has anyone ever said they have an issue with their alternator charging.
Each and every alternator is tested before leaving with the results documented on a tag, placed on the alternator.
Maybe 250 amp owners can step in and share their experiences. Relatively, the 240's at the same engine idle speed typically show mid to high 130's with 250's showing high 190's to low 200's.
Hey Bluez, I guess I found you too late after I already bought the Mechman 240--I saw your website and it had clutches and motor mounts, I didn't see anything about alternators. But you say you've installed lot of them?
It makes a bit of a whine and it seems like the belt was a lot more difficult to put on than before. The multimeter says 14.6 volts at Idle, but it was sitting at 13 when I first started it up... I see you're in Forney--I'm in Plano, what all services do you do? Thanks!
Here is a link to a YouTube video where you can hear it in the back. It sounds like a 'supercharger" whine. The instructions say that could be a grounding issue?? I wonder if this "B-Stock" is defective:
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Mechman question
