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AC Compressor Clutch will not engage.

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Old 05-09-2024, 05:17 PM
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MasonC5
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Default AC Compressor Clutch will not engage.

My ac stopped blowing cold in my 98 C5. It was low on refrigerant, so I added some. The clutch still will not engage so that I can get the pressure right. Any ideas?
Old 05-09-2024, 05:28 PM
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rrwirsi
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Since I do not have knowledge of AC issues and how to fix them after many previous goofs, I now go to the experts to let them sort out any cooling issues.
Old 05-09-2024, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rrwirsi
Since I do not have knowledge of AC issues and how to fix them after many previous goofs, I now go to the experts to let them sort out any cooling issues.
How expensive on average
Old 05-09-2024, 07:29 PM
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Do you have a 12 volt test light and know how to use one ??…can be an easy diagnosis…you can check Fuse 24 and try swapping AC Clutch relay 34 with the horn relay…if this isn’t above your ability you can jumper the load side of the relay which is terminals 87 and 30…if this works and clutch engages you have a control side issue on the relay…the PCM grounds the control side of the relay which are terminals 86 and 85…if the PCM is not grounding terminal 85 you can use the test light to provide a ground for the relay…if it works with a test light you then check the wire AT the PCM…there are inputs that allow the clutch to engage if everything but the AC Control is not providing the ground…ambient temp sensor, AC Pressure Sensor and probably 1 or 2 I forgot…if this is above your abilities bring the car to an auto electric shop in your area…they will be better to diagnose this !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; 05-09-2024 at 07:48 PM.
Old 05-09-2024, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Do you have a 12 volt test light and know how to use one ??…can be an easy diagnosis…you can check Fuse 24 and try swapping AC Clutch relay 34 with the horn relay…if this isn’t above your ability you can jumper the load side of the relay which is terminals 87 and 30…if this works and clutch engages you have a control side issue on the relay…the PCM grounds the control side of the relay which are terminals 86 and 85…if the PCM is not grounding terminal 85 you can use the test light to provide a ground for the relay…if it works with a test light you then check the wire AT the PCM…there are inputs that allow the clutch to engage…ambient temp sensor, AC Pressure Sensor and probably 1 or 2 I forgot…if this is above your abilities bring the car to an auto electric shop in your area…they will be better to diagnose this !!
I’m capable, may have further questions, but I know my way around a multimeter (in school for electrician). Thank you, I will try this and get back to you.
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Old 05-09-2024, 07:36 PM
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Relay lay out !!









Old 05-09-2024, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
I’m capable, may have further questions, but I know my way around a multimeter (in school for electrician). Thank you, I will try this and get back to you.
Electrician and automotive electrical are almost the same !!

Last edited by C5 Diag; 05-09-2024 at 07:44 PM.
Old 05-09-2024, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Electrician and automotive electrical are almost the same !!
Almost lol. Thanks for the help
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Old 05-09-2024, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
Almost lol. Thanks for the help
No problem !!
Old 05-09-2024, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
My ac stopped blowing cold in my 98 C5. It was low on refrigerant, so I added some. The clutch still will not engage so that I can get the pressure right. Any ideas?
Low charge is one of the most common reasons for no a/c but there are other sensor/electrical reasons.

Have you put a gage set on to see if your system has any pressure? If it has not lost all its charge, you really cannot add charge by hooking up a can of R134a unless you were to heat it which is a bad idea.

If your system still has some pressure, you can force the system to take charge by jumping the clutch but just be aware there is very little lubrication of the compressor until you get enough charge to go in to the point where the system can run without jumping the compressor.

If your system has lost all its charge, you have a pretty substantial leak and your system is contaminated with air. Forcing charge into an air contaminated system is a bad idea.

Either way, if low charge is the reason for loss of a/c, you are on borrowed time until it leaks out again.
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Old 05-09-2024, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
Electrician and automotive electrical are almost the same !!
I swapped the 10A fuse for another (even though it was good) and now the ac button inside blinks and turns off instead of staying on.
Old 05-09-2024, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
I swapped the 10A fuse for another (even though it was good) and now the ac button inside blinks and turns off instead of staying on.
as ​​​@bookyoh mentioned it can just be low on charge if you didn’t evacuate and refill with the correct amount of refrigerant.

Last edited by C5 Diag; 05-09-2024 at 08:11 PM.
Old 05-09-2024, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
I swapped the 10A fuse for another (even though it was good) and now the ac button inside blinks and turns off instead of staying on.
the clutch did not engage but the engine got louder when I did the jumper wire on the relay
Old 05-09-2024, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
the clutch did not engage but the engine got louder when I did the jumper wire on the relay
You don’t have to have the engine running to jumper 87 and 30…you should hear the clutch engage.
Old 05-09-2024, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
You don’t have to have the engine running to jumper 87 and 30…you should hear the clutch engage.
I didn’t hear anything
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Old 05-09-2024, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
I didn’t hear anything
MMM ??…see if you have power on terminal 30 which is load side feed…if so take the 12 volt test light connected to battery positive and probe terminal 87 which goes down to the relay…the test light should illuminate as it checks power through the coil clutch and then to ground G102.
Old 05-09-2024, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
MMM ??…see if you have power on terminal 30 which is load side feed…if so take the 12 volt test light connected to battery positive and probe terminal 87 which goes down to the relay…the test light should illuminate as it checks power through the coil clutch and then to ground G102.
should I have the key in the ignition?

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Old 05-09-2024, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
should I have the key in the ignition?

The wiring diagram is from a 2001 which should be the same…if so key should be in RUN or START…do you know how to read a wiring diagram??
Old 05-09-2024, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by C5 Diag
The wiring diagram is from a 2001 which should be the same…if so key should be in RUN or START.
it alternated between 0v and 4.8v every second or so. Same at the ac 10a fuse.
Old 05-09-2024, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MasonC5
it alternated between 0v and 4.8v every second or so. Same at the ac 10a fuse.
bad ground?


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