I dont think I am searching the right terms or perhaps searching the correct way...

Anyway. Getting ready to do major surgery on my track car. Im trying to do a little research on some pads for my C8 in case I dont get the Miata done in time for my first event next year.

I like G-Loc's...

My plan is to buy a set of rotors(likely the KNS blanks) and a set of G-Loc's, likely R12's, but possibly R10's. Just going to be on factory PS4 tires for now.

On my track car, with no ABS/stability control/etc... I run staggered pad compounds front to rear(R12/R8) and a bias adjuster. Works great, lasts long time....

On the C8 with its advanced ABS, electronic bias, etc... is running a staggered pad compound a thing? I have read a few things on other abs setups with electronic brake bias that running a staggered pad compound is not good and it can cause the ABS to freak out since its not seeing the same friction co-efficient between front and rear.

 

I haven't played with split compounds on my '20 C8 Z51. I ended up with a set of Hawk DTC60s because I could get them quick and better than the oem with DBA 5000 rotors and 18"/19" Nankang CRSs . I've done a lot of track days with them on two different tracks and have zero complaints... even set a new PB! I run them on the street too. They're reasonably clean and quiet.

 

I know of C8 (Z51 and Z06) that run staggered compounds without issue. I plan on doing the same next season.

 

I use Carbotech XP10 and XP 8 without issues. It works well. Others are using XP12/10.

 

Thanks.. Was thinking on 12's... but ill just be on factor PS4 tires so the 12 is likely overkill.

 

Would like the chance to help with your pads and such. I do all the big players. R12 could not handle my C7 Z07 with Girodisc and 15.5" diameter at Summit Point, which is not particularly hard with regard to brakes. When I say could not handle, I melted them in very short order testing them. Pre-bedded on new discs. Swapped back to previous pads, all good. In fact of all the pads I ran on that car those were the only ones to have done that despite claims of 1800F+

I beat on brakes, hard. I have had many Corvettes. I have one now (though broken). What I have been using for testing lately is a 3750 pound Mustang with 420 whp and the little tiny single piston rears like a V6. I can punish brakes and some can't come close. Others, well the set on the car now went through 2 full SCCA TT nationals and a few other events and are just now about half worn.

Tires, I get you are on Michelins, but that doesn't make life as easy on brakes as you think. In fact it can make things worse. The car can't corner as hard or stop as well, but it can go just as well in most circumstance. That means you need to use brakes more, and longer because the speed can't be carried. No you don't need crazy friction with those tires, but you need something capable of lots of temp and with modulation so as not to overwhelm the tire (the case for sticky things too). The trick is knowing, truly which pads do that. Which goes back to the testing so many pads.

 

I run G-Loc R12's on my Miata track car(aero, semi slicks, etc...), but its on a 7420 pad with 11.75x1.25 rotors so "not stock"... I didnt think they would be up to the task on the Vette, but I see so many people claiming 10's and 12's work great on the C8... Im a hard late braker, but I understand this may not work well on the C8 due to how the brake by wire system works and an early progressive push is more in order. You think R16's are a better pad on the C8? Im going to be moving the the R16 on my track Miata as part of the LS swap this off season. R12's would probably work, but I will be getting out of their range.

Im not opposed to a different brand, but I have had pretty dang good luck with G-Loc's... I'll be buying a full set of the KNS blanks most likely as well and keep them and whatever track pads pair'd for the 1 event a year I might run the Vette in.

Again, this is all theory for me anyway since I may or may not do it depending on if I think I will have my LS swap done in the Miata in time for a second weekend of March event... Ive got almost all the parts sitting on the shelf ready to go just waiting for one more event before I tear the car apart.

 

But, not a Miata. Weighs more. Rear brakes do a lot of the work here, look how small the fronts are because of how the weight is distributed on a C8. Last time I ran a C8 on track I did so with no split friction on Girodisc pads, I can't see running less rear pad. I'm a G-Loc dealer among many, so if tha's your jam, I can do that. I was pointing out how R12's did not work for me at all on my C7 in the front. No other pad I ran on that car, DTC-60, DS1.11, DS3.12, ST43, RSL29 even reacted like that. Maybe an R14 or R16 would have been fine, but that's part of the rub for me. There are no friction to temp curves I can look at, just some words on a page that read very much like another company (and vice-versa) and I think in the case of that compound overstated, because nothing else I ran claimed to be 1800 capable and nothing else I have run has started to melt.

 

On a different Miata I ran Raybestos R4's at first then swapped to G-Loc R8's... same max temp(1200 IIRC), supposedly... Melted the R8's. They obviously werent capable of the temps they claim. Raybestos R4's were great, but damn they ate some rotors.

R14 is an endurance compound from G-Loc, I forget the temp rating, but I think its similar to the 12. R16 is really the next step over an R12. I like how the G-Loc's brake since I am on manual brakes on my Miata so having a lot of modulation is good. Buddy runs D60's and now D80's and he says "oh theres almost no modulation"...

Ive heard really good things about the Ferodo pads.

I wasnt sure if running split compounds on the C8 was a thing, I wasnt thinking it was, but wanted to ask.

 

Raybestos ST4_? or Porterfield R4_? Each come in different compounds, but R4 is a Porterfield pad, along with R4S, R4E and R4-1. Raybestos are ST41, 43, 45, 47. So knowing what we are comparing to is a good start.

Ferodo is the gold standard. Currently my C5 is dead (very broken engine). I have been tracking my Mustang most of the last two years, and I love the DS3.12 so much for that car I have to slightly modify a pad meant for GM cars to fit in the Mustang, and I do it because otherwise I cannot use that compound as Ferodo does not make it in the shape specifically for my car. And they don't make it for the rear or anything close so I have to do other things and WANT to run split friction on it anyway. Very different car with very different needs.

I can tell you that DS3.12 are super easy on discs and you can even street drive them if you needed too. But where they excel in terms of monentary value is the life of the pad along with the disc. Cost more up front, but damn cost effective with amazing performance in the long run.

Not idea if these links will work but they are reels on my shop FB page showing what things look like with DS3.12. And no corrosive as hell dust that make your nice wheels flash rust in high humidity.
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I carry most all things things, have tried a vast majority, can help you through this.

As far as knowing people who has run split friction on a C8, I'm sure there are. But given the weight distribution and the size of the brakes and all it seems odd to me to force the heavier end of the car to slow down with less pad. I mean if it was a 4th gen Camaro or something where there is very little rear weight and a ton of weight transfer, yeah. But it ain't.

 

Sorry Porterfield R4.

 

Just to bump this...

Ran the car at G2 Motorsports here in Dallas on factory Z51 pads... was told "they will last the weekend"... melted them in 2ish sessions on Saturday. Hard to know exactly when. First 2 sessions were wet so not really hard. 3rd session they seemed to be ok in the dry. 4th session was double session and about 45 minutes in they started chattering... smeared. Didnt go out for 5th session(Chin happy hour)... Didnt run Sunday. I was braking very early and what I felt was "gently" in order to get the pads to last all weekend...

Miata wasnt ready to go to Ozark so I had to take C8. Got some GLoc R16's off of the forum marketplace, brand new, pre-bed... Got some rotors from KNS. Car ran great all weekend, but Sunday session 4(maybe late in session 3) they started chattering and signs of smear. Took a buddy out in the 5th session(Chin happy hour) and it was obvious brakes were toast. I was running as fast or faster than my buddy in his C8 Z06 with CCB's, well until Sunday when he went bonkers during happy hour and did a 2:47...

Im a hard late braker and catch a lot of people in braking. I get being hard on brakes is part of the game, but damn R16's are 1800+ capable. C8 front brake cooling is iffy at best IMO with the duct just blowing some air into the wheel well... Needs real brake ducts IMO. I have "heard" that G-Loc's even with high temp rating dont hold up on heavy cars.

Im probably done tracking this car as I just dont want to spend the money on some AP's since I have a dedicated track car.

TLDR: melted gloc R16's...

 

Trust me like you trusted your mechanic, drop the Miata. HTH

 

what the F are you talking about???