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Well so far it actually works. I got a starter for a 2014 C7 Corvette. As far as I can tell the hot start issue is also gone. Here are some photos and thoughts on it. First on size the C7 starter is about 1 inch shorter in length, 1 inch shorter in overall height and may be 1/2 inch or so narrower, it also weighs 1.25 pounds less 7.5 pounds vs 6.25 pounds. As far as cranking speed goes the C7 starter is noticeably better. Electrical connections (smallest wire) you need to get a pigtail from a C6 and a pigtail from a C7 and mate them together. The main power wire and alternator no change. Starter bolts are the same length (no change). It also has a heat shield that bolts to it - built in. I had to modify the shield - basically cut it in half and tweak the front mount area. What is nice I think being much smaller and the heat shield it helps with the hot starts. My ARH headers were very close to the C6 starter and there was no shield. With the new starter nothing is too close and I can reach my hand from underneath and put all the connections on whereas before I had to get from the top.
Great info. Do you have a rear mounted battery and did you have a heat soaked starter problem before? I have a rear battery GS and my latest attempt to fight heat soaked starter has been cleaning the battery ground under the carpet. My car has been plagued with hard hot starts since new. Since I cleaned the ground to the frame over a year ago, no more massive voltage drops.
Yes, my battery was in trunk (Z06). I think also GM installing a heat shield also helped. Guys with headers, the tube gets very close to the starter which does not help. Guys with headers the starter length is a big issue with clearance, the 1 inch shorter and not as wide helps a lot. This starter being much smaller there is a lot more of an air gap around it. Also As you can see the solenoid is set back further by at least 1.5 inches which gets it away from the heat more (less prone to the plastic part of solenoid breaking). The starter does sound a little different which may be the mini-comment above. I would say it turns it over at least 20% faster and I have 12 to 1 compression. Two more photos.
Last edited by double06; Jan 10, 2026 at 08:28 AM.
Can you tell me more about the gold shielding? Is that just tape, or does is it a full insulation wrap? I need to wrap my transmission lines near the headers.
Can you tell me more about the gold shielding? Is that just tape, or does is it a full insulation wrap? I need to wrap my transmission lines near the headers.
I want to know about the gold heat shielding as well. I want to wrap all kinds of lines.
Does the starter work with a manual? I’ve got a 2005 LS2 6 speed manual.
Good video above. The Corvette starter was only $95 new from Rock Auto so I would just buy new. The output terminals on the truck starter are a little different than the Corvette. I would stick with the Corvette starter as the terminal outputs are in the same locations as the C6 starter (just need a pigtail). Plus, the truck starter does not have the provision for the heat shield (probably not needed with all the room) or if they do it is a much different mounting system. These provisions are built into the starter. The gold tape is from DEI and you just wrap around the wires or lines. I also use the corrugated aluminum tube material you can either slip on or slice and wrap over (you can see it in one of the photos on transmission line there). Yes this was in a Z06 so starter does work in a manual. Interesting - the 2015 Z28 Camaro which is an LS7 uses the same LT starter slightly different part number but is the same more modern starter.
Since the c7 starter is smaller, can it be removed without having to remove long tube headers? Also the conversion harness you made, is this to plug into the oem wiring harness plug and to convert to the c7 starter? Could I just modify my current harness to use the c7 starter only by replacing the connector plug?
I just reread your first post and that’s great I can reuse the oem bolts. I’m just trying to justify replacing my oem starter now since it is out vs do I just shove it back in.
No removing the headers, the starter fits right in. Being one inch shorter and 1 inch less tall and not a wide make the install very easy. I could even install all the electrical from underneath versus having to get at in from top I could reach my hand around the starter from the bottom. Over 1 pound lighter too. On the connector plug getting a good crimp on it is tough with headers as the wire is kind of short on C6. The extra wire was helpful on install.
Since the c7 starter is smaller, can it be removed without having to remove long tube headers? Also the conversion harness you made, is this to plug into the oem wiring harness plug and to convert to the c7 starter? Could I just modify my current harness to use the c7 starter only by replacing the connector plug?
I just reread your first post and that’s great I can reuse the oem bolts. I’m just trying to justify replacing my oem starter now since it is out vs do I just shove it back in.
You might be able to get the starter off depending on the header brand. May have to unbolt the header and push it or rotate out of the way.
Double06 got those two harness adapters so he wouldn't have to modify his existing OEM harness on the car. Of course you could just solder in the new C7 style connector and it would be just fine. Do it properly, solder and heat shrink for a solid connection, no butt connectors.
thanks for both of your reply’s. I just purchased the exact heat shield and starter from rock auto. I found the pigtail harness on Amazon for $7.99. I plan to solder and heat shrink in the connector making this style starter permanent.
I have ARH headers 1 7/8 tube. The smaller starter made it easy. With the old starter it was a little tough and needed to be wiggled out. Not with the new starter.
On the heat shield you will need or want to cut it down a little as it is not needed. I think I used about 60% of the shield. The shield is more designed for OEM exhaust with the cats being right there.